Unbiased Label
Unbiased Label
Hosted by Zara Korutz
Labels belong on clothes, not people! This podcast has real talk on all things fashion x culture from a critical, global perspective at the intersection of industry and academia. Host Zara Korutz is New York-based PhD Candidate researching the fashion designs of Virgil Abloh at LV. In 2020, she earned an MA in Fashion Critical Studies from Central Saint Martins in London. Zara spent over a decade in the advertising space including at The Washington Post and OUTFRONT Media. For more information, www.zarakorutz.com #fashionstudies #criticalfashionstudies #fashion #culture
African Fashion Journalist: Elvis Kachi
This episode is a conversation with Nigerian Fashion Journalist Elvis Kachi. Kachi has been published in many magazines and news outlets including Vanity Teen, BBC, Guardian, BusinessDay Nigeria, Essence, and Quartz to name a few. His reporting focuses on conversations with fashion designers whose work is changing the stereotypical ideologies of African fashion and breaking gendered norms.  Most recently, Kachi's work highlighted how transgender Nigerians could be jailed for cross-dressing if a proposed bill becomes law. The amendment – currently in parliament – would make it illegal for a person to wear clothes that do not match their gender assigned at birth. This episode is published to coincide with African Fashion Week Season with Legos Fashion Week taking place on October 26-29, 2022. Please join me as talk with Elvis from his home in Lagos, Nigeria. We talk about his journey to becoming a fashion journalist, African fashion designers, and the restrictive Nigerian culture on gender and sexuality.  If you love fashion journalism from the African perspective, then this conversation is for you. --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/zara-korutz/message
Oct 21, 2022
26 min
Fashion Prose by Gaurav Monga
Gaurav Monga is a writer and teacher originally from New Delhi. He is the author of Tears for Rahul Dutta (Philistine Press, 2012), Family Matters (Eibonvale Press, 2019), Ruins (Desirepath Publishers, 2019), Costumes of the Living (Snuggly Books, 2020), My Father, The Watchmaker (Hawakal Publishers, 2020) and The English Teacher (Raphus Press, 2021). Gaurav's work has appeared in numerous literary magazines, including B O D Y, Fanzine, Juked, Tammy Journal, Spurl Editions, Queen Mob's Teahouse, Birkensnake amongst others. Gaurav teaches English, German, literature, epistemology and creative writing, and has taught at schools and universities in India, Nepal, Switzerland, Dubai and the Czech Republic. Gaurav taught himself German to read the works of Franz Kafka, and is currently translating selected works of Robert Walser, Peter Bichsel and Paul Leppin from German to English. He is a member of an international art and lifestyle movement called Neo-Decadence. --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/zara-korutz/message
Sep 26, 2022
34 min
Beau McCall aka "The Button Man"
This episode is a conversation with Beau McCall aka “The Button Man" who is a New York-based cultural tastemaker & visual artist that creates wearable and art by applying clothing buttons onto up-cycled fabrics, materials, and objects generating discussion on topics related to pop culture and social justice.  McCall has been featured in the NY Times, Associated Press, NPR, and L.A. Times. His visual and wearable art has been included in many exhibitions and is held in the permanent collection of public institutions and by private individuals including the Museum of Arts and Design (New York), Philadelphia Museum of Art (Philadelphia), Victoria and Albert Museum (London), The Museum at FIT (New York), to name a few.  In 2021, McCall released his debut artists’ book titled, REWIND: MEMORIES ON REPEAT, commissioned and published by SHINE Portrait Studio—that honors the legacy of ten of McCall’s deceased friends through collages composed of archival photos and images from his button artwork. The collages capture the late 1970s to the mid-1980s, from Philadelphia to New York, during the LGBTQ+ rights movement, the height of disco music and the AIDS crisis.  In 2024, McCall will debut his first-ever retrospective titled, Beau McCall: Buttons On! at Fuller Craft Museum.  --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/zara-korutz/message
Aug 30, 2022
38 min
McQueen Vault: John Matheson
This episode is a conversation with John Matheson who is a London based Alexander McQueen enthusiast, archivist and owner of the Instagram account, @McQueen_Vault. John has contributed to many fashion exhibitions, discussions and publications including Show Studio. Over the past two years, John has been working as a consultant on Alexander McQueen exhibitions with museums LACMA (Los Angeles County Museum of Art) and NGV (National Gallery Victoria, Melbourne). Please join me as I talk with John about his passion for McQueen, the history of his archiving and his contextual viewpoints on fashion. If you love Alexander McQueen, then this conversation is for you. I do hope you enjoy! --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/zara-korutz/message
Jun 2, 2022
34 min
In conversation with Colleen Hill, "Reinvention & Restlessness: Fashion in the Nineties"
This episode is a conversation with Colleen Hill, Fashion Author and Curator at The Museum at FIT. Colleen holds an MA in Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice from FIT and is currently a PhD candidate at London College of Fashion. Her most recent exhibition Reinvention and Restlessness: Fashion in the 90s (2021) is on exhibit until April 17, 2022. Colleen has authored or coauthored many books on fashion and contributed to numerous other publications including her latest book Reinvention and Restlessness: Fashion in the 90s (2021) which examines 'Nineties fashion--from grunge, to Clueless's Alaïa, to Margiela's new couture--is an essential reference point for contemporary style. This book, created in tandem with an exhibition at The Museum at FIT, documents the changing culture, attitudes, and creatives that ushered in our visual age' (Rizzoli). In this talk, Colleen and I discuss her exhibition and book Reinvention and Restlessness: Fashion in the 90s, the art of curating, and workings of the Museum at FIT. --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/zara-korutz/message
Mar 21, 2022
57 min
UNEDITED with Mukul Bhatia
This episode is an unedited talk that I recorded over the summer with my friend and life guru Mukul Bhatia. It's a raw and vulnerable conversation with my puppy Bijou barking in the background. I talk with Mukul from Bali about all the important topics that intersect with living in a Post-pandemic world including sustainability, fashion, consumerism, society, trauma, relationship, and personal growth.  Mukul Bhatia who is an award-winning visual artist from India based in Bali focused on sustainability, travel and fashion.  Mukul has been featured in Forbes, The New York Times, GQ and TEDx, and winner of Cosmopolitan India’s  2020 Blogger Award for ‘Sustainable Fashion Influencer of the Year’.   This episode is dedicated to the legacy of Virgil Abloh (1980-2021) who sadly passed away this week at the young age of 41. 💔 Virgil was a prolific zeitgeist cultural communicator and forever left his footprint on the world. His visionary work intersected many spaces including art, media, fashion, design and music. He didn't prescribe to bias, boxes, labels or limits; but lived and created with freedom of thought that birthed a new cultural code rooted in acceptance, kindness and inclusivity. Virgil left a legacy built by a superhuman work ethic filled with risk, failure, success, collaboration, accessibility, conviction, criticism, friendship, love, passion, vision and clarity. He opened doors and paved the way for future generations because he believed that his voice as a black man needed to be heard. I had the privilege to hear Virgil speak during the 2018 Vogue Paris Fashion Festival and these are my notes from his talk: Youthful outlook of Paris. Friendship. Organic. Authentic. Transparent. Design for a need to exist. Intrigue. Controversial. Collaboration. Transparent-shows who you are--Is harder and takes more time. Transparency allows for people to make a connection. Creates a dialogue. Meeting someone half way. Understand the ecosystem we live in. Blurred lines. Luxury is old word-new word is coveted! Emotional connection is the NEW luxury!!! Youthful approach with respect to Heritage. Adapt to environment and not industry. Image and text based culture. People see when things are fake. Biggest success is when organic happens!! Advertising is about relevance and importance. How do you create Desire? Fulfil dreams. Cutting corners cuts artistic vision. Branding and iconography signifies history and importance. Bestow meaning. Art & fashion collaboration. CORE-has beating heart. Experience over transaction. Untraditional ideas may be relevant and update the industry. What is exciting and relevant? Thank you for dedicating your life to being a cultural change maker. The world desperately needed you, Virgil. Rest in peace. --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/zara-korutz/message
Dec 2, 2021
1 hr 14 min
BONUS: The Babushka Headscarf Style. A Symbol of a Cultural Revolution.
This bonus episode is a critical fashion talk by host Zara Korutz focused on the investigation of the babushka headscarf style trend by examining its cultural implications both historically and in contemporary context.  Additionally, Jacqueline Pham from the Asian Fashion Journal investigates the lack of representation of Asian plus-size models.  If you geek out over fashion and culture, then this talk is for you… Please engage with your thoughts afterwards on social media or with a personal voice note.  References available upon request. Cover Photo: Gucci X Dapper Dan. Courtesy: https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/gucci-dapper-dan-collection  --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/zara-korutz/message
Nov 18, 2021
29 min
Michelle Obama's Official Make-up Artist: Carl Ray
This episode is a conversation with Carl Ray, a Washington, D.C. based celebrity make-up artist, who has been in the beauty industry for over 20 years. Carl's prolific work is evidenced in his position as official make-up artist for former First Lady Michelle Obama since 2009.  Carl has also worked with a long roster of notable clientele including: Anna Wintour, Meryl Streep, Natalie Portman, Claire Danes, Diane Von Furstenberg, Debra Messing, Stella McCartney, Kerri Washington, Gabriel Union, Adrianna Lima, Allison Janey, Julia Child, Melinda Gates, Pricilla Chan Zuckerberg, Anna Nicole Smith, Nancy Pelosi, Queen Rana, Queen Noor, Sir Paul McCartney, Leonardo DiCaprio, Morgan Freeman, Lin - Manuel Miranda, Hugh Jackman, former President Bill Clinton, and former President Barack Obama. The artistic style of the 'Carl Ray Way' is rooted in enhancing a woman’s natural beauty. He enjoys getting to know each individual woman so he can bring out her own personality. Carl prides himself on complimenting individual beauty, and his range of techniques allows him to deliver a natural glam, polished, clean, fresh, and beautiful look. Carl has been voted “top make-up artist” by Washingtonian magazine since the inception of his career in Washington, DC in 1999 and is the go-to make-up artist for weddings. His work has appeared in the bridal magazine covers & pages of: Brides, Martha Stewart, Vogue, The Knot, Washingtonian Bride and Groom, Inside Weddings, Town and Country Weddings, Modern Luxury Brides, Engaged, Bridal Guide, Wedding Style, and Premiere Bride. Carl's work has appeared on and in the magazine covers & pages of Vogue, Glamour, Elle, In Style, Cosmopolitan, Allure, Ebony, Essence, Harper’s Bazaar, More, Ladies' Home Journal, Variety, Seventeen, Red Book, People and Time. --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/zara-korutz/message
Nov 3, 2021
36 min
Is a $200K Fashion Education at Central Saint Martins Worth It? I ask Aleks Mitrovic.
This episode is conversation between Zara Korutz and Aleksandar (Aleks) Mitrovic who both graduated with an MA from Central Saint Martins in 2020 during the pandemic.  Zara graduated with an MA in Fashion Communication: Fashion Critical Studies and Aleks graduated with an MA in Fashion (womenswear pathway).  Aleks spent the past 7 years at Central Saint Martins on the journey of becoming an elite fashion designer earning an MA, BA (Hons) and Foundation diploma in Fashion.  He also received the Ye Lin Scholarship and Nina Stewart award. Aleks is currently is an Associate Designer at DIETY New York and has interned at Hillier Bartley, JACQUEMUS, J.W. Anderson, Mary Katrantzou, and his designs have been featured in Vogue and 1 Granary. When launching his final MA collection during London Fashion Week 2020, Aleks expressed that in some ways the collection is a continuation of his pre-collection that was inspired by 1990’s dull office look. Aleks' final collection structurally stands on its own and is similar to the designer who was born in Serbia during the Bosnian Civil War era.  To Aleks, “The MA is all about looking inside of yourself instead of looking at outside sources.” He continued, “They drum into you it’s all about your vibe and things you are interested in.” This sentiment reinforces the idea that becoming a fashion designer at CSM is rooted in self-expression and is a journey of discovery. Considered to be an elite global fashion training ground, Central Saint Martins (UAL) is an art and design school in London, England with a history dating back to 1896. The MA Fashion course, launched in October 1978 by Bobby Hillson, has birthed internationally renowned fashion designer ‘gods’ like Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, Christopher Kane, Stella McCartney, Craig Green, Sarah Burton, Kim Jones, Ricardo Tisci, Jonathan Saunders, and more.  According to Business of Fashion, the MA Fashion course at Central Saint Martins, led by Fabio Piras, is ranked 1st in the world with a 11% acceptance rate, 56% international student population, 98% graduation rate, and 23:1 student teacher ratio.  At Central Saint Martins, the fashion tuition for international students is as follows: MA is approx. $46,000,  BA is approx. $95,116, and Foundation is approx. $25,315 (source: https://www.arts.ac.uk/colleges/central-saint-martins).  Please join us for a conversation between two CSM MA graduates of the class of 2020 during the pandemic, fashion school as part of the fashion structural system, and discuss the reality of pursuing a career as a fashion designer.   --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/zara-korutz/message
Oct 27, 2021
29 min
The Art of Conscious Fashion Design: Jebin Johny
This episode is a conversation with Jebin Johny who is a sustainable luxury fashion designer based in Kerala, a state on the southwest Malabar Coast of India. Jebin launched his brand Jebsispar in 2015 at Lakme Fashion Week in Mumbai. His designs have been featured in Vogue India, The Indian Express, The Hindu and The Hindu Metro Plus, and worn by Hindi film actresses including Sonam Kapoor, Kalki Koechlin and Vidya Balan.    Jebin's handwoven and handprinted cotton fabric designs are rooted in the cultural identity of his home, inspired by his family and tells the emotional stories of migrants. The ethos of Jebsispar is art and soul as reflected in the brand's ethical way of existing from design to manufacturing.  Please join us as we talk about the fashion system in India, Art of fashion design, culture of Kerala, and examine the importance of consciousness in fashion focused on sustainability and ethical practices.   --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/zara-korutz/message
Oct 27, 2021
28 min
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