The Fiber Files
The Fiber Files
Kim Stone
An investigative spinning podcast. The fiber is out there.
Episode 3 – Bamboo: Green or Not?
News: Santa Fe trip – Favorite places Ten Thousand Waves Trader Joes Horseman’s Haven Santa Fe Baking Co. Tragedy Strikes – Forgotten Yarn The Needle’s Eye Wood Hollow Vest What’s on the Wheel Sadly nothing new due to forgotten fiber on vacation Knitting – a trio of dishcloths for Grandma Molly Mobius Wrap in Terra by The Fibre Company in the colorway Henna Cat Bordhi is a genius! Desperate Longing Wrapped in Fire batt from Bohoknitterchic Etsy Shop Prime Investigation: Bamboo: Green or Not? a suggestion from PippensNaNa on Ravelry Bamboo is: * a grass and not a tree * found in diverse climates, from cold mountains to hot  regions * bamboo just might be the world’s most sustainable resource * It is the fastest growing grass and can grow a yard or more a day * Bamboo is ready for harvesting in about 4 years * Bamboo does not require replanting after harvesting because its vast root network continually sprouts new shoots * bamboo does this the natural way without the need for pesticides and fertilizers Processing for Fiber * two methods by which bamboo may be processed into fiber for fabric, both developed in China. * mechanical process similar to that used to process flax or hemp; the stalks are crushed and natural enzymes break them down further, allowing fibers to be combed out * process by which rayon is made where the fibers are broken down with chemicals and extruded through mechanical spinnerets * Chemical processing * Traditional * “cooking” the bamboo leaves and woody shoots in strong chemical solvents such as sodium hydroxide (NaOH – also known as caustic soda or lye) and carbon disulfide in a process also known as hydrolysis alkalization combined with multi-phase bleaching * This is basically the same process used to make rayon from wood or cotton waste byproducts. Because of the potential health risks and damage to the environment surrounding the manufacturing facilities, textile manufacturing processes for bamboo or other regenerated fibers using hydrolysis alkalization with multi-phase bleaching are not considered sustainable or environmentally supportable. * the Canadian Competition Bureau and the US Federal Trade Commission, as of mid-2009, are cracking down on the practice of labeling bamboo rayon as natural bamboo fabric. Under the guidelines of both agencies these products must be labeled as rayon with the optional qualifier “from bamboo” * Lyocell Process * The lyocell process, also used to manufacture TENCEL®, uses Amine oxides. * Lyocell processing is substantially healthier and more eco-friendly because the amine oxides are reported to be non-toxic to humans * The chemical manufacturing processes are closed-loop so 99.5% of the chemicals used during the processing are captured and recycled to be used again * Only trace amounts escape into the atmosphere or into waste waters and waste products. Contest Winner The Winner of Episode #1’s Contest for the Wild Fibers Magazine is:  Peacecat30 from a comment left on the show notes blog.
Feb 22, 2010
21 min
Episode 2 – Clun Forest
News RMNCSA meeting http://www.rmncsba.org/ What’s on the Wheel? Willow – Jacob fleece – Owlhead Farms Corgi Hill Farms TARDIS Three Bags Full 2009 Roving available at Carolina Homespun Hand Processing using St. Blaise Combs – Paca – CVM Silver Grey fleece – Windy Hill Farms Desperate Longing Baxter the Ram fleece from Sheepfeathers Farm Darkness batts from Corgi Hill Farms Prime Investigation Clun Forest Down wool breed with a long history Ancient breed from south Britain and Welsh forests Underwent “improvement” as many breeds did in the 18th century to become the breed we know today. A very important sheep in Britain for meat production, milk and cheese, as well as fiber. Entered the US in 1970 with Tony Turner and later Angus Rouse in Canada Breed Characteristics Very good mothers with easy lambing and lots of milk Good foragers on grassland alone Very responsive sheep that handles well Long lived ewes that continue to produce Consistent, easy to spin fleece that is always white The Wool: The sheep have dark brown faces and legs with a white fleece that should be free of kemp and color. Medium sized fleeces that are not greasy or sticky. Locks are blunt ended with little to no taper. Staple length of around 2.5 to 4 inches long with a disorganized crimp characteristic of down breeds The wool is highly elastic and fairly soft with a Bradford count of 56-58 and a micron count of 25-28um. Best prep is a woolen style such as carding.  Locks can also be flicked and spun directly. When spun it is very springy and loves to be spun woolen.  Of course spinning style is the spinner’s choice and can be done as worsted if desired. Clun Forest is especially good for socks, mittens, and gloves. Interview of Mary Gloster of Rocky Top Farms References: North American Clun Forest Association In Sheep’s Clothing: A Handspinner’s Guide to Wool by Nola and Jane Fournier Fiber Basics: Clun Forest, Carol Huebshcer Rhoades in Interweave Spin Off Spring 2009
Feb 8, 2010
Episode 1 – Introductions
Fiber Files – Show Notes – Episode 1 Introductions Spinning for 4 years Grew up on a farm in northeastern Montana Raised sheep – Suffolk/Dorset/Cheviot cross as well as cattle – Hereford/Angus/Scottish Highland cross What’s on the Wheel? LuLu – a CVM/Corridale moorit lamb’s fleece blended with silk – Sheepfeather’s Farm Processed at Spinderella’s Willow – Jacob fleece – Owlhead Farms Corgi Hill’s TARDIS Hand Processing using St. Blaise Combs – Paca – CVM Silver Grey fleece – Windy Hill Farms Desperate Longing Serendipity’s Fantasy Fiber Club Offerings, especially Phoenix! Prime Investigation: Wool Types Fine Wools: This is any wool with a micron count of 18 – 24 or a Bradford Count of less than 64. Micron Definition: Unit of measure like a centimeter or inch. This is actually a micrometer = 1,000,000th of a centimeter. Bradford Definition:The Bradford system (also known as the English Worsted Yarn Count System or spinning count or Bradford count) is a way to assess the quality of wool. English wool handlers in the city of Bradford described wool by estimating (with experienced eyes) how many 560-yard hanks of single strand yarn could be made by a good spinner from a pound of “top.” (Top is cleaned combed wool with the fibers all parallel) The finer the average diameter of a single wool fiber, the more hanks could be spun. From a pound of “64s,” for example, sixty-four such hanks could be made (more than 20 miles!). From the finest wools, more than 80 hanks could be spun; from the strongest, perhaps 36 or fewer. Using ranges denoted by the stronger end (that is “44s” ran up to “46s”) wool lots were classified and prices derived. Examples: Merino, Rambouillet, Cormo Characteristics: Low micron count / high Bradford count.  Tight crimp and short blocky staples.  Oft times very greasy fleeces.  Felts easily. Uses:  Next to the skin garments. Down Wools: Micron counts of low 20’s to low 30’s. Characteristics:  Spiral crimp in an unorganized crimp.  The staples are very springy and crisp with a dull luster.  Sometimes considered chalky in appearance.  Most down wools will not wet felt but will needle felt. Examples: Clun Forest, Suffolk, Cheviot Uses:  Outerwear, sweaters and socks. For more information: http://www.bellaonline.com/articles/art34941.asp Long Wools: Long wool sheep produce long stapled wool with a large fiber diameter, usually greater than 30 microns. Characteristics: Loose, wavy crimp. Some staples are 8-12″ long.  Very high luster. Examples:  Border Leicester, Wensleydale, Teeswater Uses:  Outerwear, carpets
Jan 25, 2010
19 min