THE FASHION ARCHIVES
THE FASHION ARCHIVES
amelie stanescu
the fashion archives looks at fashion as culture in motion. every episode looks at the news, the scenes, and the historical shifts that shape what we wear and keeps trying to find a different thesis but realistically always circles back to MARGIELA DID IT FIRST. hosted by amelie stanescu, the wannabe julian casablancas of this industry, the show treats fashion the way early mtv treated youth culture: as a record of people figuring themselves out, pushing boundaries, and building identity in real time. it sounds pretentious but trust me give it a minute and you’ll see what i mean.
last ep - LAST SECOND XMAS GIFT GUIDE and MARGIELA GIVEAWAY
GIVEAWAY RULES BELOW• follow the fashion archives on spotify • rate the podcast on spotify• comment below your favorite piece• share this video to your insta stories + tag me so I can see itother useful information!!!the rick owens' cookies recipe for 100 pieces:INGREDIENTS 450 g butter800 g sugar4 eggs 950 g persimmon pulp1,000 g flour10 g salt10 g cinnamon20 g baking powder10 g baking soda240 g nuts150 g raisins80 g coconut flakes160 g datesPROCEDUREcream butter, sugar, eggsadd persimmon pulpmix dry ingredients separatelycombine wet + dryfold in nuts, raisins, coconut, datesportion ~5–7 g per cookiebake at 180–182°C for 29 minutesthe villeroy and boch boulehttps://rstyle.me/+NQETHe_0_ii3JXAN2Xm-QA
Dec 22, 2025
12 min
ep. 63 - the history of the prada group and why dario vitale at versace doesn't fit into it
in this episode im taking dario vitale's exit at versace as an excuse to do a little bit of a brainstorming around the history of the prada group. i keep saying this but the speculations behind this move are way too good, and honestly the more i look at it the less random it feels ngl.we start in 1913 with the fratelli prada in the galleria, move through miuccia + bertelli turning a luggage shop into a cultural machine, then zoom in on the empire-building years: when prada bought jil sander and helmut lang and almost broke itself in the process. from there, we look at dario vitale’s 14 years inside miu miu, his impact on the brand’s image and insane growth, and finally land on my three conspiracy theories about why he was let go from versace right after prada bought the house.DO NOT FORGET the next episode it's gonna be our yearly giveaway FIND ME HERE!!!!!!!!!YOUTI https://youtu.be/OfMSv7zVnQgIG https://www.instagram.com/chez.amelieSUBSTI https://thefashionarchives.substack.com/CICI [email protected]
Dec 8, 2025
18 min
ep. 62 - kelly cutrone's nobodycares.com
kelly cutrone is reality tv loreone of the few people in fashion who understood that power, communication and a little fear can shape an entire generation. long before influencer culture she built a world where honesty mattered more than likability. cheapeau?00:00 — intro01:17 — who is kelly cutrone05:52 — the anti-influencer before influencing12:04 — influencers as fashion’s frankenstein16:40 — fashion criticism in 2025but I was thinking: would someone like kelly cutrone, stern, sharp, villain coded in a devil wears prada way still be accepted TODAY - in my today's mind she sounds blabla-ly and random not/gonna/liein this episode i look at the version of her the internet remembers and the one the industry quietly respects. her rise from the hills and the city, the pedagogy behind her toughness but also her latest interview here https://open.spotify.com/episode/7KhErSUR8EYG4MTGU5ugin?si=5a86881483614096 we also talk about influencers as fashion’s frankenstein, created by US and then accepted by the industry and then blamed for everything, and where fashion criticism sits today now that creators hold more power than hisotrical institutions like vogue etc (IMO - no need to add that)
Nov 22, 2025
18 min
ep. 62 - post book launch depression
GO UP AND RATE THIS PODCAST XDDDDDDDi had a massive emotional hangover after my book launch party at paris fashion week ss26 and i let one hateful comment enter my veins like salt on an open wound I did a lot of work on myself to not let anything get to me and I am proud to say I built a very thick skin but my impostor syndrome triggered me into letting my guard down. never give this much power to ANYONE let alone a dücking stranger on the internet I won't let anything cancel WHAT WE DID IN PARISthis woman right here is too stunned to speak: hundreds of my beloved archivists showed up on a rainy and super busy friday during paris fashion week - the busiest fws of them all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! H O W W O Wthis is pushing me to invest so much more in tfa - 2026 is coming with a BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMMMMMMMMMMMcon amoreAmelie FIND ME HEREyt https://www.youtube.com/@chez.amelieig https://www.instagram.com/chez.ameliesubsti https://thefashionarchives.substack.com/cici [email protected]
Nov 20, 2025
14 min
ep 61 - fall fashion 2025 things I am buying
things i still want to buy in 2025fewer pieces, stronger ones is the overall approach:usable, worn hard, quietly rare; a slight avant-garde tilt. written like a confession and that starts to feel like a real plan to me.rick, finallyyyyy: the prong topi (here it is)I finally put my hands on the prong top. immediate posture shift. stretch-jersey that locks without strangling (IMPORTANT); a ruched core that pulls the eye to the bust; that unmistakable “prong” geometry up front so clean, almost architectural, held by internal structure so it doesn’t wilt after two wears xddddd matte surface. ive been into matte anything matte nails matte lips matte fabrics.anyways this top reads like minimal armor under a leather jacket or blazer - you choose - and becomes the whole thesis with a long skirt and boots JADOREEEE on the other hand my personal bag agenda is blurry:i’m still deciding between “forever workhorse” and “beautiful problem.” three directions keep looping.givenchy pandora: the bag that refuses to sit up straight. (here) introduced in 2009 under riccardo tisci, the pandora arrived when everything was boxy BUT polite; it chose to slouch on purpose. a cuboid that collapses—diagonal double zip, top handle, long strap—you carry it like you mean it. anatomical in the best way: seams where a body bends, leather that looks better beat-up. i want the medium in lived-in black (wrinkled), the kind that already speaks in past tense. it holds a day. it holds a camera. does it hold my computer tho?? comment below if you have nay experience with it whatsoever.prada, nappa + fringe (name a better combo) (here) movement is the point. prada’s nappa fringe lives where discipline meets drama (where miu miu meets prada almost - the who parts of miuccia's heart) the mid-2000s gave full-fringe top handles that turned cult, and the language keeps resurfacing: fringe slipping onto structured frames, fringe reprogramming “polite” shapes into something kinetic.celine phantom remembered + revised: the phantom (here) is a memory with wings. phoebe’s 2011 icon (well, one of them) with michael rider steering celine, certain codes feel re-tuned. early peeks suggest a phantom proportion-checked for now—cleaner, cooler, less noise, more presence. i’m hunting a sharp vintage phantom while i watch the refresh land. heritage in motion WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOW perfume is part of the fitscent is styling. the air around you is part of the silhouette. i’m leaning darker this year: incense, lacquered wood, cold stone after rain. filippo sorcinelli keeps circling back: sacred craft translated to skin. loewe perfumes are an easy bet ALWAYS:the two I am mixing at the moment are the solo elixir (here) and agua (here)the open tab section: it’s admin. tabs, screenshots, notes: i dm sellers for corner photos—corners tell the truth. i check weight because my shoulder complains. i watch how it slumps on a chair. i look at zipper teeth, lining wear, hardware wobble. measurements count more than you think. if it solves the “i have nothing to wear” eight times out of ten, it stays; if it doesn’t, close tab and move on.FIND ME HERE https://www.instagram.com/chez.amelie also here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJyYw8NRueo&t=557s
Sep 7, 2025
24 min
ep. 60 - miley cyrus + margiela = the fanbase is BOILING
margiela just did the unthinkable: a celebrity face. miley cyrus. shot by paolo roversi. it reads like a commercial until you actually look at the pictures. they’re stripped back, almost ascetic. not pop-star gloss—image as study. and the paint on her skin isn’t theatrics; it’s bianchetto, the maison’s white-overpaint usually reserved for shoes, bags, even furniture—applied so wear and time become part of the design. now it’s on a body. the star becomes ground primer surface. suddenly you’re reading line the curve of a tabi the geometry of a 5ac not “miley.”i respect miley; she’s one of the few who actually knows how to rebrand without begging for redemption arcs. she treats brand like a medium —build strip build again which makes her a sharp match for margiela’s long game of transformation. roversi’s language helps: soft focus + long exposures + painterly light that dissolves edges. it turns fame down to a hum so the house codes can speak. this is a campaign that will divide and maybe that's intentional.and yes: margiela has been the house of anti-celebrity for decades. anonymity is a value here not a gimmick -------- masks and/or makeup and/or veils from the start + faces blurred so the clothes take center stage.a “first-ever face” is a big deal culturally and let me tell you the purists ARE LIVID!!! from my end - not being a purist myself - I believe that a fashion brand as a business has the need and responsibility to adapt to the times they're operating in and in this ECONOMY come on. MILEY OR NOT MILEY this campaign is great and roversi is always an incredible choice.FIND ME HERE ‪https://www.instagram.com/chez.amelie/FIND THE POD ON YT AND SUBSTI and rate it for the love of gods of fashion!!!!
Aug 29, 2025
9 min
ep. 59 - the debut of maison martens margiela
Glenn Martens’ highly anticipated debut as the creative lead of Maison Margiela’s Artisanal line during the Fall 2025 Haute Couture season IS HERE yayyyyyyyyyyyyyGlenn - best known for his work at Y/Project and Diesel, has officially stepped into one of the most challenging roles in fashion — continuing the legacy of Martin Margiela. Here a little reaction video and first impressionsssss! I missed these eps too XDDDDFIND ME HERE https://www.instagram.com/chez.amelieALSO HEREhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jlxm4NT7IucGRAB YOUR DRINK OF CHOICEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!
Jul 10, 2025
19 min
ep. 58 - fashion week politics with lucien pagès
someone in my comment section said he’s “the man who turns water into perfume.” add to that: the liaison between vision and visibility. In this episode of the fashion archives podcast Lucien Pagès breaks down how perception becomes product, how to turn noise into meaning — and how to get invited to a fashion show (the most asked question in my dms I swear!!!!!)topics we got into:– pivoting from design to PR and reframing ambition– some brands are rich in sales but poor in story (and viceversa): how does PR balance that?– sacai and the reality of avantgarde fashion– designers as content creators– people sneaking into fashion shows– PR blacklisting — spoiler: it’s real– the industry’s obsession with romanticizing young male couturiers– and the question no one wants to ask: do we really need more fashion brands?the production quality of this episode is T-R-A-S-H (we had so many hiccups!). the conversation isn’t :)))full episode out now literally everywhere youtube substack spotify apple podcasts!!!find lucien here:https://www.instagram.com/lucienpages/find me here:https://www.instagram.com/chez.amelie/https://thefashionarchives.substack.com/https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/the-fashion-archives/id1764314268SAVE PRINT BY BUYING COOL FASHION BOOKS https://bit.ly/3G1ExEY
Jun 17, 2025
52 min
ep. 57 - your berlin dearest OTTOLINGER
the girls who lit their clothes on fire and built a cult around it.In this episode of the fashion archives I sit down with Cosima from Ottolinger — the berlin-based fashion label known for deconstruction, ceramic bags, and pure creative chaos.we talk about:– how they built a brand that's niche but has international appeal – the fashion scene as a niche brand in paris and in berlin – that ceramic bag!!!!! – destruction as design language– and what it really takes to stay independent in 2025 also available on spotify substack and wherever you consume your long-form contentlearn about ottolinger here https://ottolinger.com/FIND ME HEREhttps://www.youtube.com/@chez.ameliehttps://www.instagram.com/[email protected] you and ducking subscribe!!!!!
May 26, 2025
26 min
ep. 56 - the origin of fashion blogging with diane pernet
fashion critic filmmaker and forever icon diane pernet joins us for an unfiltered conversation about what it really means to build your own path in fashion.follow and rate the fashion archives podcast on spotify the same way you'd rate a restaurant experience on google xdxdxdbefore blogs, before Instagram, before content creators were even a thing—diane was documenting fashion on her own terms. With her signature black veil and unmatched point of view, she founded A Shaded View on Fashion Film, walked for Demna’s Balenciaga couture show, and helped shape a global conversation around fashion x film way before anyone else was doing it.She shares what it’s really like to stick around in fashion for decades—and how to stay relevant without selling your soul :)))We also get into:– her uniform and favorite designers– what it was like walking for Demna (and her thoughts on him heading to Gucci)– how she made her own space without asking for permission– what it actually takes to last in fashionDiane is the kind of guest I dreamed of having on when I started this podcast: someone who built something meaningful in this chaotic, ever-changing industry—without ever diluting her voice.This is part of the new chapter I’ve been working on behind the scenes: sitting down with people I admire—people who’ve done the work, taken risks, and stayed weird :)))))))so grateful to have MOTHER on the archivesyou'll find me here:https://www.instagram.com/chez.ameliehttps://www.youtube.com/@chez.amelie
May 4, 2025
36 min
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