The Climbing Advocate
The Climbing Advocate
The Climbing Advocate
Learn more about the work that is happening beyond the crag to keep climbing areas around the United States open and cared for. Check out more on Access Fund's mission at accessfund.org.
Ep58: Daniel Dunn & Meagan Evans: New boulder fields, climbing economics, and Tennessee conservation
This month’s episode features two rockstars out of the Southeast. Meagan Evans, Executive Director of the Southeast Climbers Coalition (SCC) and Daniel Dunn, Access Fund’s Southeast Regional Manager. Together they have worked to steward and conserve some of the region’s most cherished climbing landscapes. Most recently, the SCC protected a 58-acre boulderfield in northern Alabama known as The Citadel Boulders—an area that the SCC has been working to protect for nearly 20 years. Now the SCC, along with other major partners, are focusing their efforts on how climbing can contribute to broader conservation efforts in the Southeast. From Tennessee to Georgia and Alabama, the Southeastern U.S. is home to some of the most impressive and expansive climbing resources in the country. Within that area, the SCC sees thousands of annual climber visits resulting in a remarkable economic impact for the region. Climbers bring in millions of dollars in spending, supporting thousands of jobs. We wrap up the episode exploring some of these economic contributions and how climbing will play a big role in future conservation efforts. 4:46- Meg’s intro 9:26- Daniel’s intro 13:18- The Citadel acquisition 20:46- The early days of the Citadel boulders 24:08- Using strategic messaging to communicate about threatened areas 33:13- Citadel size and characteristics 36:36- Stewardship and infrastructure at the Citadel 39:49 Alabama’s Recreational Use Statute 47:16- Categories of land protection 55:15- Climbing economics and the future of conservation in the southeast 1:03:20- Accelerating climbing access in Tennessee Southeastern Climbers Coalition - https://www.seclimbers.org SCC’s Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/seclimbers/ Citadel Secured! - https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/victory-iconic-southeast-bouldering-area-secured Citadel Boulders - https://www.seclimbers.org/project/the_citadel_boulders/ Tennessee Economic Impact Study - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RJKqRlzX29oYP1aPusRjP5BGdwcd7MWT/view?usp=sharing Tennessee Access Accelerator Report - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dfuvshG9GZrVliDEdRNkKUB8Pgd1L6UY/view?usp=sharing Access Fund's Acquisition History - https://www.accessfund.org/capabilities/acquisition-history Access Fund's Land Holdings & Conservation Easements - https://www.accessfund.org/capabilities/land-holdings
Apr 11, 2024
1 hr 15 min
Episode #57 - Dave Thompson, Crystal Hudelson and Keith Murakata
On today’s episode, we host two conversations to recap Access Fund’s 2023 Annual Climbing Advocacy Conference in Bentonville, Arkansas. First with Dave Thompson, president of the Arkansas Climbers Coalition, and then with Crystal Hudelson and Keith Murakata with Climbers of Color. Dave shares insight into how the explosion of tourism in Arkansas has garnered support for climbing among land managers at the state and federal level and for future conservation opportunities. Dave says that Arkansas is a great stop along the way while traveling through the southeast, but it may not be long before Arkansas is seen as a major hub for climbing and recreation across the U.S. Crystal and Keith attended the conference to receive their 2022 Climbing Advocate Award for their exemplary work in lifting up leaders of color in the outdoor industry with Climbers of Color (CoC). The CoC is a Washington-based nonprofit that provides mentorship and technical training in climbing, mountaineering, and backcountry skiing. Additionally, the CoC is deeply invested in conservation and stewardship work at their local climbing areas, working on crag development, rebolting, and trail building. Tune in to hear more about climbing in Arkansas and how climbers continue to demonstrate leadership in training folks to not only be better climbers, but better people. Dave Thompson 4:15 - Dave Thompson’s intro 5:43- Dave’s experience at the 2023 Annual Conference 9:09- The Arkansas Climbers Coalition 18:28- Models for conservation 20:27- Explosion of tourism in Arkansas 30:45- Economic impact study 37:27- Future of the ARCC - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Crystal Hudelson and Keith Murakata 41:30- Crystal’s intro 42:51- Keith’s intro 44:59- Experience at the 2023 Annual Conference 50:18- Land acknowledgement vs. land introduction 52:57- Climbers of Color 59:10- Gritscone Crag maintenance 1:08:17- Future Gritscone stewardship opportunities Arkansas Climber Coalition website: https://www.arkansasclimbers.org/ ARCC’s Instagram: @arkansasclimberscoalition Become a member of the ARCC: https://www.arkansasclimbers.org/join-now Climbers of Color website: https://www.climbersofcolor.org/ CoC’s Instagram: @climbersofcolor Crystal’s Instagram: @aroseontherock CoC Events: https://www.climbersofcolor.org/events
Feb 22, 2024
1 hr 18 min
Episode #56- Erik Murdock
On today’s episode, Erik Murdock returns to take a deep dive into an issue that Access Fund and the climbing community have worked on for decades: how fixed anchors are managed in Wilderness areas. It’s an issue that requires context, history, and nuance, which is what this episode delivers. Erik begins with a thorough history of climbing in America’s Wilderness areas, then we get into the finer details of why managing fixed anchors in these places is a big deal right now. As Erik explains, recently released guidance from the National Park Service and US Forest Service will have serious implications if implemented. Join us for a deep dive into this issue, and submit your comment to the NPS and USFS on their management guidance before January 30th here. 5:12- The early conversations around wilderness - are fixed anchors allowable or prohibited? 8:28- Erik's opening on fixed anchors and wilderness 27:04- Why are fixed anchors being managed now? 30:42- Managing fixed anchors outside of wilderness 41:13- Climbers supporting past wilderness designations 51:23- Protect America's Rock Climbing (PARC) Act 59:26- Minimum Requirements Analysis (MRA) in more depth 1:04:35- Will fixed hardware be removed from existing routes? 1:09:27- Where do we go from here? Wilderness Climbing FAQ: https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/wilderness-climbing-faq Bolt Prohibition Action Alert: https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/action-alert-stop-the-bolt-prohibition National Park Service Comment Submission Form (due by Jan 30th, 2024): https://parkplanning.nps.gov/commentForm.cfm?documentID=132387 US Forest Service Comment Submission Form (due by Jan 30th, 2024): https://cara.fs2c.usda.gov/Public/CommentInput?project=ORMS-3524
Dec 21, 2023
1 hr 17 min
Episode #55- Andrew Staff
On this month’s episode, we chat with Andrew Staff, president of the Illinois Climbers Association (ICA). Andrew’s experience climbing in southern Illinois spans over two decades, so it’s safe to say that he has intimate knowledge of the local climbing and a strong connection with the local community. What the ICA has been able to accomplish over the past 20+ years is exemplary. Whether it’s stewarding or purchasing climbing areas or establishing trustworthy relationships with state and federal land managers, we should be proud to have the ICA as a part of our community. Illinois may not be the first place that comes to mind when thinking of climbing in the U.S., but Andrew convinces us otherwise. Tune in to hear more from Andrew and discover a place that still sits under the radar. 6:14- Andrew’s intro 10:26- Andrew’s favorite places to climb 12:42- History of the ICA 28:21- Statewide representation 35:21- Approaching a federal agency vs. a state agency 46:04- “Cooperation” as an organizational value 51:58- The opening of Ferne Clyff 1:03:13- Best ways to support the ICA 1:10:28- Parting words Illinois Climbers Association website: https://www.ilclimbers.org/ Illinois Climbers Association Instagram: @illinoisclimbersassociation Support the ICA: https://www.ilclimbers.org/giveback
Nov 3, 2023
1 hr 13 min
Episode #54- Rob Schorr
Today we are joined by zoologist and founder of Climbers for Bat Conservation, Rob Schorr. Rob has a particular passion for bats, which can be somewhat elusive and challenging to study given where they often roost. That’s where climbers come in. Around 10 years ago, Rob recognized an opportunity to partner with climbers to expand research on bat ecology. Since climbers and bats share the same vertical landscape, climbers are able to provide Rob and other scientists with information that they could not gather from capturing bats on the ground. Bats are largely misunderstood by the public. Rob’s work demystifies these unique animals while also gaining a better understanding of bat ecology and conservation. Working with climbers has provided Rob with invaluable information, and he is incredibly psyched to continue working with the community as conservation partners. 3:45- Rob’s intro 5:54- Work outside of bats 11:50- Rob’s initial interest in bats 12:53- Misconceptions about bats 19:22- Climbers coming to the picture 23:19- Approaching bat research using climbers 27:50- Trends seen over the last ten years 32:23- Identifying guano 37:09- Primary concerns from human disturbance 44:07- Climbers for Bat Conservation 45:07- CBC projects and public engagements 49:18- Where to submit data and observations 51:01- Will there ever be bat closures? 54:36- Educational resources on bats Climbers for Bat Conservation’s website: https://climbersforbats.colostate.edu/ Climbers for Bat Conservation’s Instagram: @climbers_for_bat_conservation Global Climbing Initiative’s Best Practices Chapter on Bat Conservation: https://globalclimbing.org/best-practices/climbers-and-bat-conservation Bat Conservation International: https://www.batcon.org/
Aug 31, 2023
57 min
Episode #53- Stephanie Giguere
Our guest for this episode is Western Massachusetts Climbers Coalition (WMCC) operating director, Stephanie Giguere. Stephanie recently took on this leadership role after spending multiple years as a volunteer with the organization. In the past few years, WMCC has worked through a couple of major projects, securing access to important regional crags like Farley Ledges and Hanging Mountain. Stephanie walks us through some of the finer details of these two projects, which required coordination with private landowners, funding sources, and community support to ensure they succeed. WMCC is a great example of an LCO that’s making an incredible contribution to the larger network of nearly 150 local climbing organizations across the country. The knowledge and expertise of local climbers is imperative to the success of sustaining climbing access for the future. 3:10- Stephanie’s intro and climbing in Massachusetts 7:30- Stephanie's climbing story 9:30- Climbing history in Western Mass 15:57- Stephanie's role with the WMCC 22:23- Funding an executive director-type position 24:52- WMCC's jurisdiction in MA 27:36- Land management and ownership of climbing areas in the East 30:02- The Farley Ledges project 39:44- Lessons from the Farley Ledges project 44:14- The Hanging Mountain Project 48:23- Funding resources for Hanging Mountain 54:26- Final thoughts WMCC’s Instagram: @wmcc_climb_gneiss WMCC’s website: https://climbgneiss.org/ Access Color Codes: https://climbgneiss.org/about-color-codes/
Jul 14, 2023
57 min
Episode #52- Quinn Brett & Sam Sala
On this month’s episode, we are joined by Quinn Brett and Sam Sala. Quinn is an adaptive athlete and prominent voice in the adaptive space. As an avid recreationist, she provides her view on how outdoor accessibility can be improved in our national parks and other outdoor spaces. Sam is an instructor at Paradox Sports where he works with Quinn and other adaptive climbers. Across his tenure, he has gained a first-hand appreciation for how improved accessibility enriches the outdoor experiences for adaptive athletes. The pair discuss some of the barriers, challenges, and successes that they have seen in the adaptive world and what they hope to see in the future. We hope this brings you a better perspective on accessibility in the outdoors, adaptive climbing, and inclusivity for adaptive athletes. 5:48- Quinn and Sam’s climbing histories 10:12- Accessible terminology 101 13:47- What Quinn noticed was missing in accessibility in the outdoors 20:38- Sam’s beginnings with adaptive athletes 26:12- Successes/progress they have seen over the years 33:26- A universal trail in national parks & meshing with Wilderness areas 38:27- Great American Outdoors Act & funding accessible infrastructure 41:26- Quinn is still doing cool sh*t 46:14- How to support adaptive athletes 52:42- Trail etiquette 54:12- Adaptive climbing technology Quinn’s Instagram: @quinndolina Sam's Instagram: @fearthenbeer Paradox Sports: https://www.paradoxsports.org/ A Climb for Greater Accessibility: https://www.rei.com/blog/climb/a-climb-for-greater-accessibility
Jun 1, 2023
59 min
Episode #51- Molly Kawahata
Our guest for April’s episode is alpinist and climate activist Molly Kawahata. You may recognize her name from The Scale of Hope, a Patagonia-sponsored film that came out last November. Leading up to the release of that film, Molly was becoming a household name in the climate movement. Pulling on human psychology and neuroscience, her approach to communicating climate action is arguably unprecedented, as she moves to make it more relatable to the everyday person. Molly’s experience as a climate advisor at the White House during the Obama administration spring boarded her into the path that she is currently on, and she hasn’t slowed down. A combination of working tirelessly as a climate advocate, Alaskan alpine climbing, and a long bout with a mental health disorder has brought her to where she is now. Tune in to hear more from Molly about how these experiences made her a fixture in the climate movement. 12:05- Patagonia's Film, The Scale of Hope 24:29- Molly's openness about her Bipolar 2 Disorder 37:50- Working at the White House 47:09- Reframing climate change communication 51:53- The science of hope 55:24- Changing the narrative towards public health 1:03:16- The Inflation Reduction Act & systemic change 1:07:02- Climate mitigation vs. adaptation 1:16:10- Molly's career & closing remarks Molly’s Instagram: @mollykawahata Scale of Hope film: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BrmKoU2Oe5I Environmental Voter Project: https://www.environmentalvoter.org/
Apr 17, 2023
1 hr 20 min
Episode #50- Chris Sharma
This month marks the 50th episode of the Climbing Advocate podcast! Chris Sharma, our guest for this special episode, needs little introduction as one of the most prolific and influential climbers of our time. His contribution to the climbing community extends from the crag to the boulder field to the gym with his new indoor climbing ventures. After nearly 30 years of climbing, Chris’s psych is as high as it’s ever been and his continued commitment to the climbing community is truly special. Sharma has lived and climbed in Spain for 15 years and had a great perspective to share on the differences between Spain and the US in terms of land management, climber presence, and overall advocacy. Sharma is particularly passionate about fixed anchor replacement—as a route developer himself, he’s dedicated to making sure no one gets hurt on one of his routes and to educating other climbers on best practices for developing new routes and updated fixed hardware on existing routes. Tune in to hear more from Chris as him and Peter celebrate 50 episodes of the Climbing Advocate Podcast! 5:10- Chris’ time in Boulder 12:07- Leaving a legacy 15:21- Influence of The Climb 20:05- Chris’ early days of climbing 26:23- Climbing ambassadorship 29:34- Noteables between the U.S. and Spain 41:08- Land management in Spain 51:22- Stewardship and access in Spain 55:20- What Chris is most passionate about 59:17- Other athletes in the advocacy realm 1:01:29- “...For the next generation”
Mar 17, 2023
1 hr 6 min
Episode #49- Elaine Elliott
On today’s episode we head south with Elaine Elliott. Elaine is one of the founders and writers of Steep South, a climbing media company. Elaine aspired to find a way to share the rock climbing treasures of the Southeast while also blending in themes of conservation and advocacy. With her history in writing, she found a sweet spot, linking up with local filmmakers in Chattanooga to produce two beautiful climbing films that share conservation success stories from Tennessee and North Carolina. These films bring conservation to life and paint a picture on how much work goes into the success of these kinds of projects. Conservation is a delicate balancing act, and climbers prove time and time again that they have the skills and know how to complete these projects. Elaine and her team at Steep South provide an amazing and unique resource to learn more about climbing conservation, so tune in to learn more and be sure to check out the Filling the Void series on YouTube. 3:38- Elaine’s intro 10:59- The origins of Steep South 20:49- What’s required to make a film 27:55- Where the “Filling the Void” title came from 31:05- Themes of the films 38:22- Takeaways from making the films 42:17- Raising money for conservation 45:52- Filling the Void Chapter 1: Denny Cove 53:39- Filling the Void Chapter 2: Rumbling Bald 1:01:25- Broadening the regional perspective of Steep South 1:03:25- Filmmaking’s impact on climbing advocacy Steep South’s Instagram: @steepsouth Filling the Void Chapter 1- Denny Cove: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4QKytNP0fFU&t=1174s Filling the Void Chapter 2- Rumbling Bald: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XA11e5CvV4E
Feb 7, 2023
1 hr 8 min
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