How Fitting
How Fitting
Alison Hoenes
Tired of clothes that don't fit from a fashion industry that doesn’t care? If you’ve set out to do better with your brand, How Fitting® is the podcast for you. Hear how relatable fashion design entrepreneurs fit their customer, lifestyle, and values, meet factories, and learn practical tips from experts so you can create a perfect fit in your fashion business. Hosted by freelance women’s apparel patternmaker Alison Hoenes.
HF#87 Making Fashion Fit Your Way with Rivky Itzkowitz of Impact Fashion
In episode 87, life-long lover of fashion and modest dresser, Rivky Itzkowitz, shares how she makes fashion work for her and other women like her through her brand Impact Fashion. Rivky seamlessly weaves her Orthodox Jewish values, skillful design and patternmaking, and fashion sense into each piece for sizes 2-28.  Rivky Itzkowitz is a fashion designer living in NYC. As a practicing Orthodox Jew, she was frustrated at not being able to find modest clothes that actually fit, so she set out to create her own. Her company, Impact Fashion, is among the only size-inclusive modest fashion lines on the market. Every style is fitted to perfection and is available in sizes 2-28 because there’s no reason why it shouldn’t be. She is also the host of the Be Impactful Podcast where she sits down with the women making a difference in their own corners of the world. You can find her @impact.fashion.nyc and see all of her designs on impactfashionnyc.com. Listen to the Be Impactful Podcast wherever you get your podcasts. In this episode, you’ll learn: How Rivky has always her love of fashion fit her personal values The real cost of offering inclusive sizes (hint: it’s not what you’d think) Why good design and good fit require caring for bodies of all shapes and sizes The insights Rivky gained from working as a seamstress doing alterations How Rivky chose her business name - and why the name is not actually that important The three values that Impact Fashion is built on How Rivky developed the inclusive size chart for Impact Fashion The reasons why Impact Fashion switched from being a wholesale line to selling only retail How Rivky structures her days to get everything done Why Rivky started her podcast, Be Impactful, and the results she’s seen after 200+ episodes People and resources mentioned in this episode: Impact Fashion website Be Impactful podcast Impact Fashion Instagram Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up to the How Fitting newsletter to receive daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
Feb 13, 2024
57 min
HF#86 The Future of On-Demand Production with Kirby Best of Bespoke Manufacturing Company
In episode 86, Kirby Best, the CEO & President of the innovative on-demand factory Bespoke Manufacturing Company, talks about what on-demand production is and what it means for the future of fashion. Learn the pros and cons of an on-demand model and how to know if it is a good fit for your fashion business. Kirby is currently the President & CEO of BMC.Fashion, iCreate.Fashion, and 3100 West. His main focus is on creating value to the customer through "on-demand" and fully customizable products using the finest technical material possible. He is the past President & CEO of Lightning Source Inc. the world's largest digital print-on-demand book manufacturer, and a division of Ingram Industries. Kirby was the founder and CEO of Royal Book Manufacturing - a company that optimized the book manufacturing process for speed, efficiency, and cost.  Kirby has served on several Boards including the BMI (Book Manufacturers Institute). He has written articles for trade journals, published several books and spoken at industry shows worldwide on the future trends in the manufacturing and information analysis industries. Prior to his business career he represented Canada in many World Championships. He was the driver of Canada 1 - the four man bobsled and skied on the biathlon, speed and freestyle skiing teams for Canada. Mountain Biking, Road Biking, Soaring and Polo are his top four sports today. He has four sons - all of which enjoy challenging him at everything! In this episode, you’ll learn: What on-demand production is and how it is different from the traditional production model The benefits and downsides of on-demand production What an on-demand production model can look like as a brand grows and scales The type of products that are the best fit for BMC’s Phoenix plant How the role of a designer might shift with widespread adoption of an on-demand production model The costs of on-demand manufacturing versus traditional bulk production The high-tech systems that BMC uses and the human roles that technology cannot replace The lessons they learned from their first factory that have improved BMC’s Phoenix plant The best way to prepare to work with BMC Kirby’s outlook on the future of the fashion industry People and resources mentioned in this episode: Bespoke Manufacturing Company Bespoke Manufacturing Company Instagram 3100 West Redefining Fashion: A Sustainable Future BMC video The True Cost documentary Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up to the How Fitting newsletter to receive daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
Jan 30, 2024
51 min
HF#85 The Intimate Details of Lingerie Design And Start-Up Life with Kristen Anderson of KRSTN NDRSN and Iteration
In episode 85, design agency founder and intimate apparel brand co-founder Kristen Anderson reveals the inner workings of the lingerie and swim industry. Kristen speaks from her experience as an in-house designer, freelancer, intimate apparel design agency owner of KRSTN NDRSN, and co-founder of the intimates brand Iteration sharing the lessons she’s learned and the new innovations she’s excited about. Kristen has been designing apparel for over 13 years and has built a strong reputation for her innovative products, technical and fit expertise, and deep understanding of the end user. Her wide-ranging design skills have been sought out by powerhouse brands and fast-growing start-ups such as Adore Me, Sheertex, Knickey, Lane Bryant, and Victoria's Secret. Kristen currently runs KRSTN NDRSN LLC, an intimate + swimwear design studio started in 2019, designing and developing garments for DTC start-ups, VC-funded brands, and independent labels. As the founder and CEO of iteration, an apparel brand started by Kristen, she aims to leverage her intimate knowledge of apparel design, fit, and functionality to create better-made, more sustainable garments from conception to customer. Her extensive industry experience in intimates has allowed her to identify critical gaps in the market and opportunities to introduce innovative solutions. Kristen is passionate about sustainable fashion, thoughtfully engineered design, and constantly improving and enhancing the entire customer experience. She believes there is an opportunity to do better for the customer, the planet, and the factories.  Kristen was the first designer hired at Adore Me, where she contributed to a team that increased sales from $5 million in 2013 to nearly $84 million by 2016. During Kristen's tenure at Adore Me, it was the fastest-growing lingerie start-up in the United States. From 2016 to 2019, Kristen was the lead swimwear designer at SwimUSA. Kristen's career started in 2010 at Bennett & Company, where she worked on the Lane Bryant, Victoria's Secret, and Hanes brands. She earned her BS degree studying Design and Merchandising at Framingham State University, where she graduated with honors. She won the Young Alumni Achievement Award from FSU in 2016 and was accepted into the Project Entrepreneur program by UBS and Rent the Runway in 2018. In this episode, you’ll learn: How Kristen got into the intimates, lingerie, and swim niche Kristen’s perspective on the industry having held in-house, freelance, and brand founder roles in her career. Why her first brand never launched The benefits of an outside perspective How Kristen and her co-founder have co-created their brand, Iteration’s, products with a community of customers The biggest lingerie pain points Kristen hears from women The software that is inspiring Kristen's designs and business right now The expensive lesson Kristen and her co-founder learned while visiting a factory in Sri Lanka The speed of start-up life and why the direction actually matters more People and resources mentioned in this episode: KRSTN NDRSN intimates and swim design agency Iteration lingerie brand Kristen on Instagram Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up to the How Fitting newsletter to receive daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
Jan 16, 2024
55 min
HF#84 Filling The Gap In Smart, Sustainable Closets with Sophie Kissling of UPPERCASE
In episode 84, UPPERCASE founder and designer, Sophie Kissling, tells us what she’s learned, the mistakes she’s made, and the smart choices she’s made throughout her career as a designer and personal stylist. She now weaves her experience seamlessly into smart closet services - including wardrobe edits and the UPPERCASE line that fills the gaps in sustainable wardrobes. UPPERCASE was born as an expression of freedom. We created a collection for you to either fill in the gaps in your wardrobe or create an easy wardrobe. So you have the time to do whatever matters most to you, rest assured you are dressed for the occasion. Time is a precious thing and among other million things, time is also meant to enable a space where true dialogue within ourselves occur.  Our wardrobe should reflect who we are and be our ally. Help us achieve our goals and dreams. So you could say we basically sell time and freedom.  In a more personal level, it is also an expression of freedom because it was born as a means to gain financial freedom. As a divorced working mom, most of the decisions about my children’s future depended on the restrained financial situation we were at. I decided that in order to succeed in being truly independent I needed to become financially free first.  And being a self-educated designer and stylist for so many years, it felt right to finally fully dedicate to it. In the end, the ultimate goal is always love. Love for your community and love for what you do. In this episode, you’ll learn: How Sophie learned about fashion design and sewing The mistakes Sophie made with her first fashion brand and how she’s approached UPPERCASE differently Why Sophie chose to base her brand in (and move to) Miami, FL Tips for editing a smart and sustainable wardrobe The impact Sophie wants UPPERCASE to have and what she’s doing to make that happen How Sophie’s personal styling background influences how she designs for UPPERCASE How long it took to start her brand from initial concept to website launch How Sophie found her factory Why an on-demand production model makes sense for UPPERCASE’s mission and business  People and resources mentioned in this episode: UPPERCASE website UPPERCASE Instagram Bespoke Manufacturing Company – on-demand factory Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up to the How Fitting newsletter to receive daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
Dec 5, 2023
58 min
HF#83 Powerful Impact Beyond the Clothes with Sadie Burton of FRST John
In episode 83, Sadie Burton shares her story about starting her fashion brand, FRST John, with a focus on real women, real life, and real impact on her community. Hear what she’s learned about designing, marketing, and wholesaling and the big plans she has for FRST John’s impact in the future. FRST JOHN is a purpose-driven brand focused on designing feminine yet functional womenswear. Each collection gives you a tailor-like fit as if it were made specifically for you. Beyond the fit, our Texas-based founder and designer knew it was necessary to create not only a beautiful brand but one steeped in philanthropy. Her own experiences with abuse have driven her to lead her life with purpose and help others who have struggled with the same. A portion of every garment sold from our curated collections are donated to local women’s shelters specializing in domestic and sexual abuse. Join us in empowering women, in style. In this episode, you’ll learn: Why Sadie started making her own designs after starting an online boutique The ways Sadie designs for real women and real-life The vulnerable story behind FRST John’s mission Why philanthropy is an important part of FRST John Sadie’s approach to styling and designing for FRST John Why Sadie decided to focus on wholesale instead of DTC for FRST John How Sadie was welcomed by other brand owners at her first trade show Sadie’s experience selling FRST John at wholesale trade shows The benefits of going to wholesale shows beyond taking orders How Sadie is incorporating buyer feedback into her next collection What FRST John’s design calendar looks like People and resources mentioned in this episode: FRST John website FRST John Instagram How Fitting episode #29 with Kimberly and Miriam of PWR WMN Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up to the How Fitting newsletter to receive daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
Nov 21, 2023
53 min
HF#82 Style Fit For The Petite Professional with Sopi Mitil of The Sopi Mitil Co.
In episode 82, hear how attorney-turned-designer Sopi Mitil turned her frustration with the lack of well-fitting petite professional attire into a business: The Sopi Mitil Co. The brand offers short (but not just small) women stylish, professional attire that fits curves like a glove without a trip to the tailor.  The Sopi Mitil Co. is a fashion brand that has emerged as a beacon of empowerment and style for petite and curvy women. Founded by Sopi, a former attorney turned fashion entrepreneur, the brand was born out of her personal struggle to find stylish and professional clothing tailored to her size. Sopi's dedication to creating a solution to this common problem has resulted in a brand that offers: inclusive sizing, personalization, fashion diversity, sustainability, luxury, empowerment, and exclusive offers. The Sopi Mitil Co. has emerged as a trailblazer in the fashion industry, addressing the long-standing issue of inclusivity for petite and curvy women. It offers a new way to embrace style and confidence, making fashion a source of empowerment for women of all sizes. In this episode, you’ll learn: What Sopi disliked about the typical petite sizing Where Sopi found women to participate in her customer research surveys when she first started the brand The different types of petite bodies Why Sopi produces her pieces in Italy What Sopi looks for in a good factory and what things she’s learned are red flags to avoid How Sopi’s mindset and business growth changed when she hired a team The two types of people everyone needs in their support network Why Sopi has a scale-up plan for her business How Sopi incorporates customers’ and her team’s feedback into the designs People and resources mentioned in this episode: Sopi Mitil website Sopi Mitil Instagram Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up to the How Fitting newsletter to receive daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
Nov 7, 2023
55 min
HF#81 The Basics of Timeless Slow Fashion with Emily Bracey of Juuney
In episode 81, hear how Emily Bracey took what she learned in fashion school in a whole new direction that focuses on timeless, slow fashion, and ethical fashion in her brand Juuney. Inspired by her grandma June’s purposeful and resourceful closet, Emily creates basics that can go from a wedding to naptime and are made to be meaningful for generations. Juuney was born out of the founder, Emily Bracey’s vision to bring the timeless elegance of her Grandma June’s dress collection to a new generation. Grandma June’s reverence for beauty and fashion imprinted on Emily and she carried that spark of inspiration through college at FIT and into starting Juuney. “I still think about Grandma June’s closet and the experiences I had with her that shaped my perception of what timeless fashion is. Looking back, I can see that the love and care surrounding my Grandma June’s dresses truly enhanced their beauty and value. I still wear my grandma’s pieces and noticed that most of my friends don’t have pieces that have been passed down.” I started sewing in early high school, but had been designing since 6th grade when I decided I wanted to be a fashion designer. I went to school at FIT in NYC and realized that the fast fashion world was not for me, but I knew one day if I kept working and saving money I could start my own brand that didn't hurt the planet and people as much as others.  In this episode, you’ll learn: What Emily realized about the fashion industry while studying at FIT The inspiration behind the Juuney brand and style The pros and cons of using new fabric versus upcycled textiles What gives clothes meaning How Emily found her development agency and how she knew they were a great fit How to know if a factory is actually paying fair wages How long (and how many samples) it took to develop the June dress How Emily balances running the business, designing, and sewing pieces Why you need to treat yourself as a worker and not just as a boss in your small business The questions Emily asked to figure out what her wholesale and retail pricing should be The nuances of educating consumers on slow fashion as a brand that is selling fashion People and resources mentioned in this episode: Juuney website Juuney Instagram Maker’s Row - US manufacturing directory Blank Canvas -  development agency Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up to the How Fitting newsletter to receive daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
Oct 24, 2023
1 hr
HF#80 Adding Color (and A Twist) to Midwestern Basics with Joie LaFrentz of Jola
In episode 80, Joie LaFrentz shares all the thoughtful decisions that go into designing for Jola, her line of colorful basics with a twist . Learn how she balances design, production, sales, and admin for her business all from remote Iowa.  Joie LaFrentz was born and raised in Iowa and has always had a love for design, color, and fashion. She studied both fashion merchandising and design before ending up with an art history degree. After living all over the country, Joie settled back in Iowa to raise her family amongst hard-working people and open spaces. The idea of having her own line was always in the back of her mind, so after having four boys who were past their toddler years, she took numerous classes to ensure she had the foundation needed to launch JOLA. When she’s not trying to keep her growing crew fed or running to their activities, she spends every free minute sourcing sustainable fabric, manufacturing partners, marketing her line, and spreading the word on how color can be uplifting in our daily lives. In this episode, you’ll learn: The education Joie invested in before starting her brand How the midwest lifestyle inspired the five blouse designs The values Joie incorporated into her business from the start How color plays an important role in Jola - and in our lives How Joie found the perfect fabric even without prior experience with textiles or sewing How Joie found her factory Why manufacturing in the USA is important to Joie How Joie has grown beyond her comfort zone to sell the Jola collection The balance between transparency and privacy and authenticity that Joie has found for her business People and resources mentioned in this episode: Jola website Jola Instagram The New School (Parson’s School of Design) Factory45 sustainable fashion brand accelerator Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up to the How Fitting newsletter to receive daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
Oct 10, 2023
59 min
HF#79 Thoughtful Style that Petite Women Want to Wear with Jenna Loyal of Pro Hac Vice
In episode 79, hear how Jenna Loyal, the founder of Pro Hac Vice, has created a fashion-forward brand that petite women actually want to wear - all while working a full-time day job. With thoughtful fit, feminine details, and quality fabrics, Pro Hac Vice serves style in just the right proportions. Jenna Loyal is the founder of Pro Hac Vice, a New York City based clothing brand for petite women, 5’4” and under. Pro Hac Vice makes well-fitting clothing with feminine silhouettes, unexpected details, and high-quality fabrics. Jenna's greatest passion for the brand is to make clothes that petite women will actually be excited to wear. In this episode, you’ll learn: What Jenna struggled with as a petite woman that made her start her own petite fashion brand Why Jenna decided not to put together a whole business plan Why Jenna started her branding and social media before having any products or even designs How long the process took from design to finished product How Jenna decided on the two initial pieces for the Pro Hac Vice collection Why Jenna chose to work with a consulting agency to develop her designs instead of hiring freelancers How Jenna balances a full-time legal career with running her brand The skills from Jenna’s legal career background that help her in her entrepreneurial life People and resources mentioned in this episode: Pro Hac Vice website Pro Hac Vice Instagram CFDA resource directory Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up to the How Fitting newsletter to receive daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
Sep 26, 2023
1 hr 2 min
HF#78 Universal Design for All Abilities with Stephanie and Mary Cayten Brakefield of Brakefields
In episode 78, mother-daughter duo Stephanie and Mary Cayten Brakefield share their passion for universal design that is fun, comfortable, and accessible. Their brand, Brakefields, is built on the idea that designing accessibility is better for people of all abilities and that fashion should be functional without sacrificing style. It’s funny how the sum of all your experiences come together to create opportunities. Stephanie Brakefield learned to sew before she started kindergarten, making clothes and blankets for her dolls alongside her mom who was making beautiful garments for herself and her two daughters. In high school, Stephanie spent her free time designing and sewing clothes, painting and working with the disabled population. Little did she know that some 40 years later, she would come full circle, finding herself creating a universally designed line of clothes with her daughter that encompasses all three of her teenage passions. A lot happened during those 40 years. She attended Vanderbilt University earning bachelor’s and master’s degrees in Special Education. She taught in the classroom for six years then turned her attention to her favorite job, raising her four children. A couple of years ago when her youngest daughter, Mary Cayten, suggested they start a brand together, Stephanie was all in, and Brakefields was born! When the Pandemic hit in 2020, the two ladies reached out to women all over the world to find out what their closets lacked and what would make dressing easier. With an initial focus on designing for disabilities, Mary Cayten and Stephanie soon realized that by adding adaptive features to their garments, their designs were desired by a much larger audience. Whether due to disability, motherhood, a demanding job, or simply an active lifestyle, all women need clothes that equip them for anything their day might ask of them. Quote from Stephanie: “Colors are like children; I could never pick a favorite. They all make me happy! I’ve surrounded myself with color, patterns, art, and fashion for as long as I can remember. In my eyes, leopard is a neutral and hot pink is a basic. I love combining my background in Special Education, love of art and design, and my desire to hear other’s stories into this brand we call Brakefields. And best of all, I get to work with my daughter every day!”  Mary Cayten Brakefield is the cofounder of Brakefields, a universally designed clothing label that focuses on fashion and function. She, along with her cofounder/mom, work to design vibrant pieces that solve the problems created by traditional fashion. Whether due to disability, motherhood, a demanding job, or an on the go lifestyle, we all need clothing that is more functional and comfortable without sacrificing style. Mary Cayten’s work at Brakefields aims to provide exactly that! Mary Cayten was a student athlete at the University of Tennessee where she studied Retail and Consumer Sciences and earned a Masters of Marketing at Vanderbilt University. Between working with disabled athletes in college and then personally acquiring a disability soon after, she became passionate about accessible, universally designed products in the fashion world and beyond! In this episode, you’ll learn: What universal design means and why it is important What is is like working as a mother-daughter team The little details that make Brakefields pieces so accessible for all of life How Stephanie and Mary Cayten share their work How on-demand manufacturing allows them to offer more customization The challenges in marketing accessible fashion Stephanie’s and Mary Cayten’s long-term goal for Brakefields Their biggest clothing pet-peeves  People and resources mentioned in this episode: Brakefields website Brakefields Instagram Bespoke Manufacturing Company - on-demand factory Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up t
Sep 12, 2023
54 min
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