EPISODE NOTES: It's that time of year again! Hopefully you have your "Eatin' Pants" clean, mended, and ready to roll. Enjoy today's episode, and a little snack, as we explore the history of the elastic waistband and your favorite stretchy slacks! ⁠⁠⁠https://www.patreon.com/historyunhemmed⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ ⁠⁠https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/historyunhemmed⁠⁠⁠ If you have any requests or questions, or simply feel like saying hello, drop us a line at ⁠⁠⁠[email protected]⁠⁠⁠  and/or follow us on social media: Instagram: @history_unhemmed Facebook: History Unhemmed  Thank you! <3 RESOURCES:  Clemente, Deirdre. Dress Casual: How College Students Redefined American Style. Chapel Hill, NC: University of North Carolina Press, 2014. Farrell-Beck, Jane and Colleen Gau. Uplift: The Bra in America. Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2002.  Jackson, Joe. The Thief at the End of the World. New York: Viking, 2008. Schmidt, Christine. The Swimsuit: Fashion from Poolside to Catwalk. London: Berg, 2012. Slack, Charles. Noble Obsession: Charles Goodyear, Thomas Hancock, and the Race to Unlock the Greatest Industrial Secret of the 19th Century. New York: Hyperion, 2003. Warner, Patricia Campbell. When the Girls Came Out to Play: The Birth of American Sportswear. Amherst, MA: University of Massachusetts Press, 2006. --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/historyunhemmed/support

EPISODE NOTES: Leather Face and Norman Bates and their penchant for human skin is the stuff of horror movies and fuel for more than a few nightmares. Sometimes, however, the truth is weirder (and creepier) than fiction! ⁠⁠https://www.patreon.com/historyunhemmed⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ ⁠https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/historyunhemmed⁠⁠ If you have any requests or questions, or simply feel like saying hello, drop us a line at ⁠⁠[email protected]⁠⁠ and/or follow us on social media:Instagram: @history_unhemmedFacebook: History Unhemmed  Thank you! <3 RESOURCES:  de Baecque, Antoine. Glory and Terror: Seven Deaths Under the French Revolution. Oxford: Taylor & Francis, 2013. Dorsey, Carolyn. “Antoine Le Blanc: A shocking story of murder and a community’s revenge.” Morristown Green. September 26, 2014. https://morristowngreen.com/2014/09/26/antoine-le-blanc-a-shocking-story-of-murder-and-a-communitys-revenge/ Douglas, John E., Olshaker, Mark. Mindhunter: Inside the FBI's Elite Serial Crime Unit. New York: Scribner, 1998. Hunt, Lynn. The French Revolution and Human Rights: A Brief History with Documents. New York: St. Martin's, 2016. Maffie, James. Aztec Philosophy: Understanding a World in Motion. Boulder: Colorado University Press, 2014. La Lande, Jérôme de. Art du Tanneur. Paris: Saillant et Nyon, 1761.  Miller, Mark E. Big Nose George: His Troublesome Trail. Glendo: High Plains Press, 2022.  Portilla, Miguel Leon. Aztec Thought and Culture: A Study of the Nahuatl Mind. Norman: University of Oklahoma Press, 1988.  Rosenbloom, Megan. “A Book by Its Cover.” Lapham’s Quarterly. October 19, 2016. https://www.laphamsquarterly.org/roundtable/book-its-cover Ruysch, Frederik. Frederik Ruysch and His Thesaurus Anatomicus: A Morbid Guide. United Kingdom: MIT Press, 2022. Schechter, Harold. Deviant: The Shocking True Story of Ed Gein, the Original Psycho. New York: Gallery Books, 1998. Thompson, L S. “Tanned Human Skin.” Bulletin of the Medical Library Association vol. 34,2 (1946): 93-102. --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/historyunhemmed/support

EPISODE NOTES: From the flagellant confraternities of the Middle Ages to the penitents of of the Spanish Inquisition, from Dunce Caps to the uniform one of the most hated terrorist organizations in the United States, the long face-covering cap has quite the colorful and interwoven tale to tell. ⁠https://www.patreon.com/historyunhemmed⁠⁠ https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/historyunhemmed⁠ If you have any requests or questions, or simply feel like saying hello, drop us a line at ⁠[email protected]⁠ and/or follow us on social media:Instagram: @history_unhemmedFacebook: History Unhemmed  Thank you! <3 RESOURCES:  Bethencourt, Francisco. The Inquisition: A Global History 1478-1834. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2009. Chico, Beverly (3 October 2013). "The Dunce Cap". Hats and Headwear around the World: A Cultural Encyclopaedia. Fenley, Laura. Confraternal Mercy and Federico Barocci’s Madonna Del Popolo: An Iconographic Study. Master of Arts Thesis. College of Fine Arts. Jorgensen, Jay. Creating the Illusion: A Fashionable History of Hollywood Costume Designers. Philadelphia: Running Press, 2015. Kamen, Henry. The Spanish Inquisition: a historical revision. New Haven: Yale University Press, 1998. Kinney, Alison. “How the Klan Got Its Hood.” The New Republic. January 8, 2016. https://newrepublic.com/article/127242/klan-got-hood Lubrich, Naomi. “The Wandering Hat: Iterations of the Medieval Jewish Pointed Cap.” Jewish History 29, no. 3/4 (2015): 203–44. Parsons, Elaine Frantz. Midnight Rangers: Costume and Performance in the Reconstruction-Era Ku Klux Klan. Sherman, Irwin W. The Power of Plagues. Hoboken, NJ: Wiley, 2020. Stokes, Melvyn. D.W. Griffith’s the Birth of a Nation: The History of the Most Controversial Picture of All Time. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2007. Straus, Raphael. “The ‘Jewish Hat’ as an Aspect of Social History.” Jewish Social Studies 4, no. 1 (1942): 59–72. The Klanwatch Project of the Southern Poverty Law Center. Ku Klux Klan: A History of Racism and Violence.  Montgomery, AL: The Southern Poverty Law Center, 2011. --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/historyunhemmed/support

EPISODE NOTES: For millennia, Dhaka was renowned for its exquisite cotton textiles. The resplendent fabrics from Bengal were highly sought after in markets from China and Indonesia to France and England. Particularly muslin. In the late 18th century the British ultimately murdered Dhaka Muslin. ⁠https://www.patreon.com/historyunhemmed⁠⁠ https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/historyunhemmed⁠ If you have any requests or questions, or simply feel like saying hello, drop us a line at ⁠[email protected]⁠ and/or follow us on social media:Instagram: @history_unhemmedFacebook: History Unhemmed  Thank you! <3 RESOURCES:  A former Resident of Dacca. A Descriptive and Historical Account of the Cotton Manufacture of Dacca, in Bengal. London: John Mortimer, 1851. AFP. "Textile hub Bangladesh revives muslin, the forgotten elite fabric." Al Jazeera, 9 March 2022, https://www.aljazeera.com/news/2022/3/9/textile-hub-bangladesh-revives-muslin-the-forgotten-elite-fabric Alkazi, Roshen. Ancient Indian Costume. New Delhi: Art Heritage Books, 1983. Ashmore, Sonia. Muslin. New York: Harry Abrams, 2012. Beckhert, Sven. Empire of Cotton: A Global History. New York: Vintage Books, 2015. Bolts, William. Considerations on India Affairs; Particularly Respecting the Present State of Bengal and its Dependencies. London: J. Almon, 1772.Chandra, Moti. Indian Costumes and Textiles from 8th to 12th Century. Ahmedabad: Journal of Indian Textile History, 1960.Chaudhury, Sushil. Spinning Yarns: Bengal Textile Industry in the Backdrop of John Taylor’s Report on ‘Dacca Cloth Production. New York: Routledge, 2020. Hossain, Hameeda. The Company Weavers of Bengal: The East India Company and the Organization of Textile Production in Bengal 1750-1813. Dhaka: The University Press LTD.,2010.  Islam, Saiful. Muslin Our Story. Dhaka: Bangladesh National Museum, 2016. Postrel, Virginia. The Fabric of Civilization: How Textiles Made the World. New York: Basic Books, 2020. Tankha, Madhur. "How this Bangladeshi textile revivalist is mainstreaming muslin." The Hindu. 15 May 2019, https://www.thehindu.com/society/history-and-culture/how-this-bangladeshi-textile-revivalist-is-mainstreaming-muslin/article27128775.ece --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/historyunhemmed/support

EPISODE NOTES: Holy cow! We've hit our 20th episode! In the second half of the twentieth century, Barbie and other fashion doll makers grapple with issues of identity and representation. THe third of History Unhemmed's three-episode segment on the history of the fashion doll. If you would like, you can support us at: ⁠https://www.patreon.com/historyunhemmed⁠⁠ https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/historyunhemmed⁠ If you have any requests or questions, or simply feel like saying hello, drop us a line at ⁠[email protected]⁠ and/or follow us on social media:Instagram: @history_unhemmedFacebook: History Unhemmed  Thank you! <3 RESOURCES:  Augustyniak, J. Michael.  Barbie Doll Photo Album: 1959 to 2009 Identification & Values. Paducah, KY : Collector Books, 2010. Black Dolls: From the Collection of Deborah Neff. United States: Radius Books, 2015. BillyBoy*. Barbie! : her life & times, and the New Theater of Fashion. New York: Crown, 1987. Charles-Roux, Edmond., Lottman, Herbert R.., Garfinkel, Stanley. Théâtre de la Mode: Fashion Dolls : the Survival of Haute Couture. Vancouver, WA: Palmer-Pletsch Associates, 2002. Crowsey, Linda. Collector's Encyclopedia of Madame Alexander Dolls 1948-1965. Paducah, KY: Collector Books, 2006. Eames, Sarah Sink. Barbie Doll Fashion: 1959-1967. Paducah, KY : Collector Books, 1990. Garrett, Debbie Behan. Black Dolls: A Comprehensive Guide to Celebrating, Collecting, and Experiencing the Passion. United States: Debbie Behan Garrett, 2008. Gerber, Robin. Barbie Forever: Her Inspiration, History, and Legacy (Official 60th Anniversary Collection). United States: Epic Ink, 2019. Hart, Maria Teresa. Doll. United Kingdom: Bloomsbury Publishing, 2022. Hatcher, Val. “What about Gay Bob?” Natural History Museum. https://nhm.org/stories/what-about-gay-bob. Knaak, Silke. Bild-Lilli: The German Comic Character That Inspired Teenage Fashion Dolls. Paducah, KY: Collector Books, 2003. Mackrell, Alice. An Illustrated History of Fashion: Five Hundred Years of Fashion Illustrations. New York: Drama, 1997. Olmec Toys. "About." Olmec Toys. https://www.olmectoys.com/#about Rand, Erica. Barbie's Queer Accessories. Durham, NC: Duke University Press, 1995. Veillon, Dominique. Fashion Under the Occupation. Oxford: Berg Publishers, 2002. Willson, Jacki. Dangerous Bodies: New Global Perspectives on Fashion and Transgression. Germany: Springer International Publishing, 2023. --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/historyunhemmed/support

EPISODE NOTES: In the twentieth century, the pandora doll had disappeared as a professional tool. The relationship between fashion and dolls, however, remained a very close one. After WWII, the plastic fashion doll for children arose from some less than wholesome beginnings, to take the world by storm. In this second of three episodes on the fashion doll, History Unhemmed takes a closer look at some little fashionistas who had a huge impact. If you would like, you can support us at:https://www.patreon.com/historyunhemmedhttps://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/historyunhemmedDrop us a line at [email protected] and/or follow us on social media:Instagram: @history_unhemmedFacebook: History Unhemmed  Thank you! <3 RESOURCES:  Augustyniak, J. Michael.  Barbie Doll Photo Album: 1959 to 2009 Identification & Values. Paducah, KY : Collector Books, 2010. Boy, Billy. Barbie! : her life & times, and the New Theater of Fashion. New York: Crown, 1987. Charles-Roux, Edmond., Lottman, Herbert R.., Garfinkel, Stanley. Théâtre de la Mode: Fashion Dolls : the Survival of Haute Couture. Vancouver, WA: Palmer-Pletsch Associates, 2002. Crowsey, Linda. Collector's Encyclopedia of Madame Alexander Dolls 1948-1965. Paducah, KY: Collector Books, 2006. Eames, Sarah Sink. Barbie Doll Fashion: 1959-1967. Paducah, KY : Collector Books, 1990. Knaak, Silke. Bild-Lilli: The German Comic Character That Inspired Teenage Fashion Dolls. Paducah, KY: Collector Books, 2003. Mackrell, Alice. An Illustrated History of Fashion: Five Hundred Years of Fashion Illustrations. New York: Drama, 1997. Rand, Erica. Barbie's Queer Accessories. Durham, NC: Duke University Press, 1995. Veillon, Dominique. Fashion Under the Occupation. Oxford: Berg Publishers, 2002. --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/historyunhemmed/support

EPISODE NOTES: She inspired fashion trends on a global scale. She taught young girls and grown women alike about the dressing styles of royal courts across Europe and how to wield fashion as tool…and a weapon. Before there was Barbie, there was Pandora. This episode is the first of three exploring the family tree of Mattel’s most famous It girl and her contemporaries. If you would like, you can support us at:https://www.patreon.com/historyunhemmedhttps://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/historyunhemmed Drop us a line at [email protected] and/or follow us on social media: Instagram: @history_unhemmed Facebook: History Unhemmed   Thank you! <3 RESOURCES: Anderson, Ruth M. Hispanic Costume, 1480-1530.  New York: Hispanic Society of America, 1979.Cousin, Nelly. Dolly’s Outfit: Teaching Children How to Dress Their Dolls. London: Samuel Miller, 1872. Croizat, Yassana C. ""Living Dolls": François Ier Dresses His Women." Renaissance Quarterly 60, no. 1 (2007): 94-130.Frasier, Antonia K. Dolls. New York: Octopus Books,1973. Frasier, Antonia. Marie Antoinette. New York: Anchor Books, 2001.Frieda, Leonie. Catherine de Medici: Renaissance Queen of France. New York: Harper Collins, 2003. Goldstone, Nancy. The Rival Queens: Catherine de' Medici, Her Daughter Marguerite de Valois, and the Betrayal that Ignited a Kingdom. New York: Little, Brown, and Company, 2015King, Constance Eileen. The Collector’s History of Dolls. New York: Outlet, 1977. Mackrell, Alice. An Illustrated History of Fashion: Five Hundred Years of Fashion Illustrations. New York: Drama, 1997. Shaw, Christine. Isabella d’Este: A Renaissance Princess. New York: Routledge, 2019. Weber, Caroline. Queen of Fashion. New York: Picador,  2006.  Whyel, Rosalie. The Heart of the Tree: Early Wooden Dolls to the 1850s. Bellevue, WA: Rosalie Whyel Museum of Doll Art, 2003. --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/historyunhemmed/support

EPISODE NOTES: The shirtwaist emerged in the mid-late nineteenth century. It soon became a symbol of the modern working woman, and by the early twentieth century, shirtwaists were mass manufactured and widely available. However, this would come at a devastating cost to the workers (mostly women) who produced them. On the afternoon of March 25, 1911, fire broke out at the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory in New York City. This would go down in history as one of the worst industrial disasters in American history and its impact would be felt more than a century later. If you would like, you can support us at:https://www.patreon.com/historyunhemmedhttps://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/historyunhemmed Drop us a line at [email protected] and/or follow us on social media:Instagram: @history_unhemmedFacebook: History Unhemmed   Thank you! <3 RESOURCES: Bader, Bonnie. East Side Story. New York: Silver Moon Press, 1993. Cornell University School of Industrial and Labor Relations. Remembering the 1911 Triangle Factory Fire. Online exhibition: http://trianglefire.ilr.cornell.edu/ Dash, Joan. We Shall Not Be Moved: The Women's Factory Strike of 1909. New York: Scholastic, Inc., 1996. De Angelis, Gina. The Triangle Shirtwaist Company Fire of 1911. Philadelphia: Chelsea House Publishers, 2001. Greene, Jacqueline Dembar. The Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire. Minneapolis, Minnesota: Bearport Publishing, 2007. Gunderson, Jessica. The Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire. Mankato, Minnesota: Capstone Press, 2006. Naden, Corinne J. The Triangle Shirtwaist Fire, March 25, 1911: The Blaze that Changed an Industry. New York: Franklin Watts, 1971.  Sachar, Howard M. A History of the Jews in America. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, Inc., 1992 Sherrow, Victoria. The Triangle Factory Fire. Brookfield, Connecticut: The Millbrook Press, 1995. Wertheimer, Barbara M. We Were There: The Story of Working Women in America. New York: Pantheon Books, 1997. --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/historyunhemmed/support

History Unhemmed is a podcast about the sometimes shiny...more often sinister and shady side of fashion history. Tune in for tales of sartorial scandals, fashionable foibles, and deadly duds every other week! --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/historyunhemmed/support

EPISODE NOTES: "It's better to be looked over than overlooked." So was the motto of Nudie's Rodeo Tailors. The company's brash and bombastic frontman Nudie Cohn, an early twentieth-century Ukrainian Jewish immigrant. From humble origins, Nudie carved out a name for himself as the king of sparkly, campy, and shiny western wear favored by everyone from country crooners to rock and roll royalty. If you would like, you can support us at:https://www.patreon.com/historyunhemmedhttps://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/historyunhemmed Drop us a line at [email protected] and/or follow us on social media:Instagram: @history_unhemmedFacebook: History Unhemmed  Thank you! <3 RESOURCES: Bull, Debby. Hillbilly Hollywood. New York: Rizzoli, 2000. George-Warren, Holly and Freedman, Michelle. How the West Was Worn. New York: Harry N. Abrams, 2001. Greenlaw, M. Jean. Ranch Dressing: The Story of Western Wear. Birmingham, AL: Lodestar Books, 1993. Mackenzie, Mairi. Dream Suits: The Wonderful World of Nudie Cohn.  Tielt, Belgium: Lannoo Publishers, 2011. Nudie, Jamie. Nudie the Rodeo Tailor: The Life and Times of the Original Rhinestone Cowboy.  Films: Burns, Ken, dir. Country Music. 2019; Florentine Films, WETA.  Figueroa, Yuri, dir. Manuel. 2019; Nashville, TN:  El Capitán Films. --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/historyunhemmed/support