Hairspring
Hairspring
Hairspring
Episode 54: Great Unknown Vintage Watch Brands
57 minutes Posted Feb 11, 2025 at 10:37 am.
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Wristwatches have been around awhile. And, in that time, a great many names haves have risen and then fallen. This week, Erik & Max discuss some of the great now-defunct watchmakers from years gone by, as well as some of their better works. And we really mean unknown. From a Tiffany-Only signed retailer calendar with a Patek calibre, to L. Leroy & Cie, where to find a JCK-half-off, or even Beyner Grimm, well, that's this week. Plus, if you're a Swiss cyclist looking for serious watchmaking, where to go?



Links Mentioned:


The Beyner Grimm Prototype:


https://www.phillips.com/detail/andre-beyner-and-maurice-grimm/CH080116/200


Full Story on it In Context:


https://www.watchbrotherslondon.com/articles/reference-talk-audemars-piguet-ultra-thin-tourbillon-ref-25643-and-25656-selfwinding


Lip Genève:


https://hairspring.com/finds/lip-signed-blancpain-fifty-fathoms/


‘Paul Newman’:


https://hairspring.com/finds/paul-newman-lip-geneve-830-chronograph/


‘Carrera’:


https://hairspring.com/finds/lip-geneve-reverse-panda-carrera-chronograph/


7730 Diving Chronograph:


https://hairspring.com/finds/lip-geneve-valjoux-7730-diving-chronograph/


‘Alarme’ (Memovox-like thing):


https://hairspring.com/finds/lip-geneve-valjoux-7730-diving-chronograph/


Lip Mach 2000:


https://www.analogshift.com/products/lip-mach-2000-dark-master-chronograph


L. Leroy & Cie:


https://www.phillips.com/detail/leroy/CH080515/249


https://benjaminmarcello.nl/product/l-leroy-cie-18k-yellow-gold-circa-1930s/


Gruen Ocean Chief:


https://hairspring.com/finds/50s-gruen-precision-ocean-chief/


Benrus Sky Chief:


https://www.fratellowatches.com/tbt-benrus-sky-chief-chronograph/


Record Genève:


https://www.phillips.com/detail/record/CH080515/228


The Live Reaction One:


https://www.thewatchboutique.com/en/product/record-geneve-chronograph-calendar/


Bimetal Barilotto:


https://hairspring.com/finds/rolex-3525-barilotto-in-pink-gold-steel-with-champagne-dial/


Glycine Airman:


https://www.glycine-watch.ch/history


https://www.fratellowatches.com/tbt-glycine-airman-special/


Ecole Watches:


‘JCK’ Technicum Neuchâtelois Ecole D’Horlogerie Triple Calendar:


https://hairspring.com/finds/technicum-neuchatelois-ecole-dhorlogerie-triple-calendar-chronograph/


One I haven’t covered that I love:


https://www.wristicons.com/ecole-horlogerie-le-locle-observatory-chronometer.html


‘Retailer’Watches:


Tiffany:


https://www.instagram.com/p/DBg8rLgu8b5/


Gubelin:


https://www.phillips.com/detail/gubelin/HK080118/997


Astrua:


https://www.phillips.com/detail/universal/CH080515/238


Kelek Chronograph:


https://www.josephbonnie.com/en/product/chronographe-kelek-vintage-watch/


Kelek Yachting:


For Stars and Stripes the Only Listing from Old Hodinkee was Deleted:


https://bulangandsons.com/products/kelek-yachting-chronograph-1960s-w1529


Seaboard-Yacht:


https://bulangandsons.com/products/kelek-yachting-chronograph-1960s-w1529


Mathey-Tissot Racing Dial:


https://hairspring.com/exclusives/mathey-tissot/valjoux-72-chronograph-racing-dial-steel/


Only Wrist:


https://hairspring.com/exclusives/laurent-ferrier/sport-auto-blue-titanium/


https://hairspring.com/exclusives/fp-journe/elegante-48-titanium/


https://www.romaingauthier.com/freedom/c-romain-gauthier/titanium-edition-six


https://hairspring.com/exclusives/ressence/type-1-slim-hod3-titanium/