
Erik & Max are going for it now: what are the worst dials made (the ones we all should’ve loved but can’t)? This is not just a roast of Jacob & Co, but rather dials and concepts that had promise, only to fail in the execution. There’s no shortage of content here this week, apologies for the long run time. Also, what might be the greatest Only Wrist yet. Links Mentioned:A3630:https://www.fratellowatches.com/dear-zenith-bring-back-the-sub-sea-ref-a3630/Corum:https://www.windvintage.com/corum-coin-watch-1896-unpolishedRolex Mexican LE:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/3612-rolex-centenario-coin-watchCartier Basc 2522:https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/christies-watches-online-time-spring/cartier-tank-basculante-ref-2522-97/53903Patek Philippe 3919:https://www.tickingtimehomme.com/shop/1990s-patek-philippe-calatrava-pat-3919-s19-001Patek Philippe 5159:https://collectability.com/product/patek-philippe-perpetual-retrograde-calendar-ref-5159g-001/Patek Philippe 3923A (Doesn’t Belong on List, but Discussed):https://www.tickingtimehomme.com/shop/1990s-patek-philippe-calatrava-pat-3919-s19-001Patek Philippe 3712:https://www.acollectedman.com/products/3712-1a-nautilus-jumbo-3-dot-steelPatek Philippe 5712: https://www.acollectedman.com/products/patek-philippe-nautilus-5712Patek Philippe 5085 Neptune:https://monochrome-watches.com/collector-series-interview-gaurav-brings-the-light-on-the-unusual-patek-philippe-neptune-5085a/Cubitus 5822:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-patek-philippe-cubitus-collectionAP Chronicle Guilloché Tapisserie History (Remember this is Written by AP):https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/article/guillochage-tapisserie1999 Time for Trees:https://mrwatchley.com/products/audemars-piguet-royal-oak-foundation-time-for-the-trees-ref-15100stStamped 15710ST:https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch-collection/royal-oak-offshore/15710ST.OO.A027CA.01.htmlTridor:https://amsterdamvintagewatches.com/shop/rolex-day-date-18239b-tridor/Patek 40th Nautilus: https://www.watchprosite.com/patek-philippe/patek-philippe-nautilus-40th-anniversary-5976-1g-and-5711-p/11.1085918.8010198/AP KAWS:https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch-collection/royal-oak-concept/26656TI.GG.D019VE.01.htmlEarly Tudor Subs ‘Acne’:https://omegaforums.net/threads/tudor-snowflake-9411-0-thoughts-on-this-one.128820/Radium Burn:https://www.windvintage.com/rolex-stelline-star-dial-galaxy-reference-6098-in-18k-yellow-gold-on-jubilee-unpolishedAndersen Geneve Vita Vinum:https://www.watchprosite.com/independents/a-picture-of-the-vita-vinum-by-andersen-geneve/16.1300521.11085531/—— What Greases Gears:Berneron:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/breitling-designer-sylvain-berneron-sets-out-to-explore-asymmetry-on-his-ownLongines:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/highly-tropical-longines-legend-diver-7150Breguet:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/3057-breguet-classique-perpetual-calendarHermes:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-case-for-hermes2005 Superocean:https://hairspring.com/products/2005-yachting-superocean-slow-chronograph-steel——Only Wrist:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/doorstop-dial-1803-rolex-day-date-pink-goldhttps://www.gq.com/story/watches-of-the-week-7-25-20https://www.fratellowatches.com/vintage-zodiac-zodia-chron-hermetic-valjoux-72-watch-review/#grefhttps://www.ssongwatches.com/products/yema-yachtingrafYema Collecting Guide:https://www.regatta-yachttimers.com/brands/yema/
May 13, 2025
1 hr 5 min

While independents, Daytonas, and PCCs return to new highs, Erik & Max turn their attention to unusual corners of watches that aren’t aggressively collected today. As long as they’re rare, well studied, interesting, and beautiful, they’re in the running this week. Plus a two-in-one Only Wrist. Links Mentioned:Questionable Cloche (last image):https://www.phillips.com/detail/cartier/214804Lange Grand Comp Pocket Watch:https://www.phillips.com/detail/a.-lange-&-söhne/217289Charlie’s Guide to the 1018:https://www.strictlyvintagewatches.com/the-rolex-oyster-perpetual-reference-1018Bubbleback:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-bubbleback-and-why-it-still-mattersPolerouter Guides:https://universalgenevepolerouter.com/articles/Rolex Veriflat:https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/the-rolex-veriflat-and-why-its-a6305 Datejust:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080322/159Les Historiques Worth Knowing:43045 1921 QP:https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/CH080217/10949005:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/specially-made-for-asprey-smooth-black-dial-49005-vacheron-constantin-perpetual-calendar-chronograph47151:https://ineichen.com/auctions/special-9/10/47111:https://ineichen.com/auctions/special-9/10/49002 (4072-Inspired Plus Date):https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/49002-vacheron-constantin-les-historiques-chronograph-in-pt47052:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/49002-vacheron-constantin-les-historiques-chronograph-in-pt43032:https://hairspring.com/products/43032-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinumSigned Heuer Examples:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/found-vintage-heuer-carrera-car-and-driverhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/shelby-cobra-dial-3147n-heuer-carrera-dato-12https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/fine-watches-9/reference-3647-carrera-sunray-dx-a-stainless-steel116509 Sodalite:https://www.thewatchbarn.com/shop/p/rolex-daytona-rare-stone-sodalite-arabic-dial-watch-116509-w010069PLM 701.001 and Its Family:https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-1815/lange-tourbillon-pour-le-merite/Salmon PLM:https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2011/important-watches/lot.34.htmlNeo Minerva:https://www.acollectedman.com/products/minerva-chronograph-white-gold (Knurled One)https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/copper-salmon-pulsations-minerva-1858-monopusher-in-steelhttps://www.phillips.com/detail/minerva/CH080221/96True Vintage Minerva:https://www.phillips.com/detail/minerva/CH080218/52Blancpain QP:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5495-blancpain-villeret-perpetual-in-platinumUnusual Midas:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/lapis-lazuli-dial-4316-rolex-king-midas-cellinihttps://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/HK080319/9311530: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/1530-rolex-oyster-perpetual-date-4Only Wrist:AP DD:https://hairspring.com/products/25573ba-tiffany-co-dial-day-date-yellow-goldhttps://hairspring.com/products/25594st-royal-oak-day-date-moonphase-steel570:https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/198629
May 8, 2025
1 hr 12 min

This episode covers all you need to know to begin speaking Daytona. No more needs to be said. Links Mentioned:Pre-Daytona:3346 Zerographe:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080016/364113 Split:https://www.phillips.com/article/47875238/comparing-two-rolex-reference-4113-of-the-twelve-made-14537:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/4537-rolex-chronograph5034: https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080220/503525:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/monoblocco-3525-rolex-chronographhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-vintage-rolex-reference-3525-telling-a-beautiful-but-tragic-story6034 Pre-Daytona:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080122/2216234 Pre-Daytona:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080122/1926238 Pre-Daytona:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/black-galvanic-dial-6238-rolex-pre-daytona-chronographA Fantastic Chronology of Pre-Daytona:https://goldammer.me/blogs/articles/reference-guide-vintage-rolex-pre-daytona—— And we Begin Daytona, We Have to Link the Reference Points:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/understanding-the-rolex-non-paul-newman-daytonaThe OG Le Mans Ad in In this Article:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/up-close-and-personal-with-the-2023-rolex-le-mans-daytona-ref-126529lnA Great 6239:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/paul-newman-6239-rolex-daytona6240 with Millerighe Pushers, the First Oyster Pusher:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/small-floating-dial-6240-rolex-daytonaThis Guide has a Pretty Sound Pusher Study:https://www.41watch.com/en/journal/historical-reviews-of-iconic-watches/retrospective-complete-de-la-rolex-daytona6241:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080121/1996262 & 6264:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/6262-rolex-daytonahttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/lemon-paul-newman-6264-rolex-daytona-26263 & 6265:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/tropical-dial-6265-rolex-daytonahttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/big-red-6263-rolex-daytonaThe 6269 & 6270 that ‘Don’t Count’:https://amsterdamvintagewatches.com/shop/rolex-daytona-6269/https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-daytona-reference-6270Our Manual Favorite Dials:The Seminal Double Swiss Underline 6239 Article:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-first-rolex-daytona-by-benjamin-clymerJPS:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/jps-paul-newman-6239-rolex-daytonaSolo 6240:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/solo-dial-6240-rolex-daytonaThe Questionables:Qaboos 6263:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/qaboos-6263-rolex-daytonaThe Unicorn:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/white-gold-rolex-daytona-6265-unicorn-phillips-auctionAnd the Unicorn Controversy:https://perezcope.com/2022/12/31/rolex-daytona-6265-the-unicorn-frankenstein-plot/Neanderthal:https://perezcope.com/2022/11/03/rolex-daytona-6240-paul-newman-neanderthal-a-myth-goes-extinct/Yacht-Master 6264:https://www.rolexmagazine.com/2008/06/ultra-rare-prototype-yachtmaster.html#gsc.tab=0—— Automatic Daytona:Floating 16520:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/porcelain-floating-cosmograph-16528-rolex-daytonaPatrizzi:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/16520-patrizzi-rolex-daytonaFour-Liner:https://bulangandsons.com/blogs/watch-talks/spot-on-the-rolex-daytona-16520-mk2-four-linerIntro of the 116520:Panna 116520:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080424/194Ceramic Daytona:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-rolex-daytona-now-with-black-cerachrom-bezelNew Ceramic Daytona:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-rolex-daytonaLe Mans:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/126529ln-rolex-le-mans-daytonaTiffany Zenith Daytona:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/tiffany-signed-16520-zenith-daytona—— Only Wrist:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-1815-gets-a-34mm-casehttps://www.chopard.com/en-us/watch/161954-9001.html
Apr 23, 2025
1 hr 8 min

It’s not just a Watches & Wonders retrospective this week, as Erik & Max attempt to also choose a superior vintage alternative in the same vein to each new release. There are roasts, reasonable critiques, and some unexpected loves in this year’s releases. This week’s episode covers the Land-Dweller, Calatrava, Lange Repeaters, and so much. Plus, Journe goes Geländewagen. Links Mentioned:NSO Bye-Bye:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/breaking-news-cartier-nso-programTank à Guichets:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-cartier-tank-a-guichet-2025Alternates:https://www.acollectedman.com/products/vacheron-constantin-jumping-hours-43040Alan Keating De Bethune (only capture I could find was on Reddit):https://www.reddit.com/r/Watches/comments/1d4to4p/identify_watch_worn_here_by_alan_keating_from/Land Dweller:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-rolex-land-dweller1530:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/1530-rolex-oyster-perpetual-date-4Alternates:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/tropical-14790st-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-2https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/beyer-signed-3212-iwc-yacht-club-ii-jumbo-automatichttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/1830-iwc-golf-club-sl1908 Settimo Bracelet:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-perpetual-1908-in-yellow-gold-on-braceletCeramic Dials:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-gmt-master-ii-left-hand-in-white-gold-with-green-dialTiger Iron:https://www.ablogtowatch.com/hands-on-rolex-gmt-master-ii-126715chnr-tiger-iron-watch/Reverso:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/jaeger-lecoultre-updates-the-reverso-tribute-duoface-and-monoface-small-secondsGreat Wave:https://www.woohootime.com/#/watches/5266196P:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-6196p-the-best-calatrava-in-a-generationAlternates:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2526-patek-philippe-calatrava-white-goldhttps://www.windvintage.com/patek-philippe-reference-2509-unpolished-w/-extracthttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-patek-philippe-6159gOdysseus:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-odysseus-in-so-much-honeygoldAlternates:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/3800-1j-yellow-gold-patek-philippe-nautilusQP Repeater:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-minute-repeater-perpetual-live-pictures-thoughts-and-comparisonshttps://hairspring.com/products/330-039-saxonia-annual-calendar-u-s-boutique-white-goldG-Wagen Journe:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-fp-journe-chronometre-furtifOnly Wrist:https://hairspring.com/products/9240-ingenieur-perpetual-calendar-jumbo-yellow-goldhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/3057-breguet-classique-perpetual-calendarhttps://www.gphg.org/en/watches/big-pilots-watch-perpetual-calendar-top-gun-edition-mojave-deserthttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-chopard-luc-quattro-2025
Apr 14, 2025
59 min

Chances are, you won’t agree with the ideas we’re discussing this week. And that’s the whole point. This week, Erik & Max ask, ‘What do you believe that almost no on else in watches seems to?” Discussion leads to the Fast & Furious, Triple Calendars, Dufour, Lange QPs, and Instagram. Plus, what should a very successful furniture maker wear? Links Mentioned:LUC XPS:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/chopard-brings-a-touch-of-heritage-to-the-luc-xps-with-a-new-forest-green-sector-dialBreguet Guide by Tahoma:https://www.tahomawatches.com/read/collectors-guide-to-early-breguetWellendorff Breguet:https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2019/dubai-watches-db1901/lot.110.htmlProfane Watches:https://www.rescapement.com/blog/three-times-using-the-f-word-made-for-a-great-fing-watchF&F Family (I couldn’t find Max’s Rolex):https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQuc7wfO16Q25447 Carrera:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2547s-heuer-carrera-12-datoOris pointer:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/oris-brings-back-the-bronze-for-its-latest-pointer-date-limited-edition5726 (Max’s Fav):https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5726a-patek-philippe-annual-calendar3712:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5726a-patek-philippe-annual-calendarDufour Backlash:https://www.instagram.com/p/CuHdd-XrBAK/345.056:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/salmon-dial-345-056-a-lange-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-calendar310.225:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/310-225-a-lange-sohne-langematik-perpetual-wellendorff-braceletOnly Wrist:https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-geneva-edit/audemars-piguet-yellow-gold-perpetual-calendar-moon-phases-square-282/167335https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080117/34https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/walser-wald-dial-591-patek-philippe-chronograph-pink-goldhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/1579-spider-lug-patek-philippe-chronographhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/tropical-dial-6265-rolex-daytona
Apr 3, 2025
57 min

There are small mistakes and then there is today’s topic: true faux pas. From interactions with other collectors to the way manufactures design their watches, this week is all about those social blunders. Obviously, this episode is mostly Erik & Max moaning and groaning, but there are one or two deeper points worth contemplating. In addition, the second topic at hand: if we were each to be mono-brand collectors, how would we each go about it?Links Mentioned:JPH Obituary: https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/03/obituary-jean-pierre-hagmann.htmlLange Triple Split:https://monochrome-watches.com/a-lange-sohne-triple-split-in-pink-gold-and-blue-review-specs-price/Steel Spring Bars in Precious Cases:https://www.watchprosite.com/a.-lange-and-söhne/steel-spring-bars-eroding-away-the-lug-holes-/10.1546036.15123976/Types of Guilloché:https://www.screwdowncrown.com/p/guilloche-deception-atelier-wen-revolutionGianni Agnelli:https://italianwatchspotter.com/gianni-agnellis-watch-collection-over-the-cuff/?lang=enPolerouter Window:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/204612-1-universal-geneve-polerouter-dateHome Plate:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/black-dial-7032-tudor-monte-carlo-home-plateLange 1 Perpetual:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/salmon-dial-345-056-a-lange-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-calendarType XX:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-breguet-type-xx-type-20Going Monobrand:Max:V72:https://goldammer.me/blogs/articles/valjoux-lecoultre-us-chronograph-guideGeophysic:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/e168-jaeger-lecoultre-geophysicDSA History:https://www.watchprosite.com/jaeger-lecoultre/jaeger-lecoultre-tribute-to-deep-sea-alarm-full-hands-on-review-sihh-2011-/2.681148.4348178/Erik:Lange Picks:https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/saxonia/datograph-perpetual-tourbillon-honeygold-lumenhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-odysseus-chrongraph(Correction: chronograph, not split, obvs)https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-1815/lange-tourbillon-pour-le-merite/Omega:https://hairspring.com/products/2915-2-speedmaster-steelhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/omega-ploprof-in-depthhttps://www.phillips.com/detail/OMEGA/CH080217/182Only Wrist:4072:https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/HK080422/80254178:https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/CH080223/184CdV:https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/NY080222/10090s QP Skeletons:https://hairspring.com/products/43032-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinumhttps://hairspring.com/products/25668pt-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinum
Mar 27, 2025
1 hr

This week is all about the Rolex that moved the brand from tool watches to luxury: the Day-Date. We cover the beginnings, chronology, famous wearers, advertising, interesting dials, and everything down to the Oysterquartz Perpetual Calendar (you read that right). It’s a more granular episode than most, but if you’ve been looking to get up to speed with the President, here’s a quick download. Plus, what should a successful private mountaineering guide spring for at 75k?Links Mentioned:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/jean-claude-killy-6236-rolex-datocompaxhttps://hairspring.com/products/8171-padellone-yellow-gold_43285https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/stelline-dial-6062-rolex-triple-calendar-moonphase6510:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/HK080116/2936511:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080115/40Steel Prototype:https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6394633Eisenhower Datejust at Auction:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/ikes-rolex-doesnt-sell-rr-auctionKennedy Omega:https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/chronicle/1960-to-a-future-presidentKennedy Day-Date:https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=115058https://www.rolexmagazine.com/2008/07/history-of-rolex-president-part-9.html#gsc.tab=0LBJ:https://www.forbes.com/sites/msolomon/2016/10/04/a-brief-history-of-the-rolex-president-watch/The 1803 (Just a Great Example of the Breed):https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/doorstop-dial-1803-rolex-day-date-pink-gold1803 Castro (Lol at the ‘Freedom Fighter’ title on the Monochrome article):https://monochrome-watches.com/fidel-castro-1926-2016-sportsman-freedom-fighter-rolex-wearer/https://quillandpad.com/2019/02/27/wrist-watching-fidel-castro-and-his-gold-rolex-submariner/Brezhnev:https://www.rolexmagazine.com/2011/12/rolex-communists-leonid-brezhnev-and.html#gsc.tab=0Saddam Hussein:https://www.rolexmagazine.com/2019/09/rolex-tool-watching-middle-east-rolex.html#gsc.tab=0Stella:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/burl-wood-dial-18039-rolex-day-dateStone:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/bloodstone-dial-18239-rolex-day-dateSequoia Wood:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/sequoia-wood-dial-1803-rolex-day-dateBurl/Birch:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/burl-wood-dial-18039-rolex-day-dateKhanjar:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/khanjar-rolex-day-date-1803-in-blue-wgRolex 1530:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/1530-rolex-oyster-perpetual-date-4Oysterquartz:https://hairspring.com/products/17000-oysterquartz-tropical-purple-pre-cosc-dial-steelOysterquartz Day-Date:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/birchwood-dial-19018-rolex-oysterquartz-day-dateOysterquartz QP:https://revolutionwatch.com/rare-finds-rolex-perpetual-calendar-oysterquartz/Only Wrist:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/well-preserved-black-16570-rolex-explorer-iihttps://hairspring.com/products/25730st-royal-oak-dual-time-steelDual Time Everest:https://hairspring.com/products/7910v-everest-overseas-dual-time-titaniumChronograph:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/everest-vacheron-constantin-overseas-chronograph6542:https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/6542-gmt-master-steelDay-Date Ad that Doesn’t Track:https://www.adpatina.com/products/1969-rolex-day-date-ref-1803-taming-oil-well-fires-advertisement
Mar 15, 2025
1 hr 5 min

Auctions aren’t new, not even close. And, if we’re honest, we could’ve played history better. Today, Erik & Max have given themselves a second chance to do so, going back through auctions of the last five years and picking out favorites in the 0-10K, 10-100K, and 100K+ hammer price brackets, respectively. There were so many great buys we all missed, and lessons to be learned from them. Links Mentioned:0-10K:VC 43031:https://www.cambiaste.com/uk/auction-0453/vacheron-and-constantin-fine-yellow-gold-wrist-1-203095UG 22541 Recent Christies Sale:https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-6456808UG 22541 First Phillips Sale:https://www.phillips.com/detail/universal/CH080515/138The Omega ‘Smiling’ Speedymoon: https://www.phillips.com/detail/omega/CH080515/106Speedymoon Guide:OmegaSpeedyMoon.comThe Holy Grail:https://www.omegaholygrail.comMax Playing Liberace:https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/important-watches-9/a-yellow-gold-bracelet-watch-circa-194010-100K:Heuer Sunray DX Carrera:https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/fine-watches-9/reference-3647-carrera-sunray-dx-a-stainless-steelHeuer Cobra Carrera:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/shelby-cobra-dial-3147n-heuer-carrera-dato-12Patek Philippe 2577:https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2019/important-watches-ge1904/lot.458.htmlStelline 6098 Rolex With Grummann Engraving:https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6515299Possibly-Dubius 16550 Explorer II ‘Prototype’ Blue Nipple Dial:https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-16550-explorer-ii-lot-356-252AP 25657 Tuscan Dial:https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/HK080122/938100K+:Rolex 6239 PN:https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6515276Rolex 6238 Gloss Gilt 14k First Sale:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080117/91?fromSearch=pre-daytonaRolex 6238 Gloss Gilt 14k Second Sale:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/HK080319/906Patek Philippe Pink on Pink 1518:https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/important-watches-4/reference-1518-a-pink-gold-perpetual-calendarRWS II:https://www.phillips.com/detail/roger-smith/NY080123/12FPJ Resonance Souscription 004:https://www.phillips.com/detail/fp-journe/NY080120/102Patek Philippe 3428 Platinum:https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-patek-philippe-an-extremely-fine-and-rare-4982656/Only Wrist:https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/datograph-collectors-guidehttps://hairspring.com/products/401-026-1815-chronograph-first-generation-white-goldhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/ulysse-nardin-monopusher-386-88https://hairspring.com/products/43032-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinumhttps://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-lange1/lange-1a-112-021/
Mar 5, 2025
1 hr 8 min

Yes, it’s Q&A time again. You asked (in a big way!), we answer. All the insane questions you asked us and more. This round includes crucial questions such as TR900 vs 3970, the greatest 1016 variant, our favored vintage and modern Patek Philippes of all time, independent divers (where’d they go?), views on Glashütte Original. Links Mentioned:Glashütte Original:https://www.glashuette-original.com/en/5711:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-collectors-guide-to-the-patek-philippe-nautilus-57115204:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-5204-title-here-live-picsVC 1921:https://www.fratellowatches.com/vacheron-constantin-historiques-american-1921-a-very-pleasant-platinum-surprise/Greatest 1016:https://www.ssongwatches.com/products/rolex-explorer-ref-1016-gilt-exclamationhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/honeycomb-dial-6350-rolex-explorerhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/6429-commando-rolex-oysterIndependent Divers:https://www.mbandf.com/machines/mbf-machines/horological-machines/hm7https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/de-bethune-db28gs-grand-bleu-hands-on3970 v TR900:https://hairspring.com/products/3970ep-second-series-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-platinum_42658https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/us-navy-tornek-rayville-tr-90079290ST:https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/model/royal-oak-offshore-79290Chanel by Romain Gauthier:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/chanel-monsieur-de-chanel-jump-hourThe Most Beautiful Gallet Ever:https://hairspring.com/products/snow-white-multichron-12-steel1-2 Punch Collection:Max:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/gilt-dial-1016-rolex-explorerhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/journal/timekeeping-beyond-earth-astronauts-and-their-speedmastersErik:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/tropical-meters-first-5513-rolex-submarinerhttps://hairspring.com/products/401-026-1815-chronograph-first-generation-white-goldSeiko Golf:https://www.thetokeiclub.jp/product-page/seiko-cronos-golf-13074-in-full-setGilbert Albert:https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/collector-guide-asymmetrical-watches47101:https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/collector-guide-asymmetrical-watchesOysterquartz:https://hairspring.com/products/17000-oysterquartz-tropical-purple-pre-cosc-dial-steelRoger Dubuis QP:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/h37-roger-dubuis-hommage-perpetual-calendarFav Vintage/Modern Patek Ever:Vintage:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-patek-philippe-reference-2497-part-1https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080322/114https://davideparmegiani.ch/watch/patek-philippe-1526-3/https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/eric-claptons-patek-philippe-2499Modern:https://watchesbysjx.com/2016/05/a-detailed-look-at-eric-claptons-one-of-a-kind-patek-philippe-ref-5004p.htmlhttps://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2022/the-international-connoisseur-jewels-and-watches/reference-5970g-019-a-white-gold-perpetualhttps://www.fratellowatches.com/patek-philippe-5164a-aquanaut-travel-time/https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5374p-patek-philippe-minute-repeater-perpetual-calendarNeo-VC:https://hairspring.com/products/47100-chronograph-skeleton-yellow-goldhttps://hairspring.com/products/43032-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinumhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/semainier-47052-vacheron-constantin-triple-calendar-white-goldhttps://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/salmon-dial-49005-vacheron-constantin-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-platinumLatest Wearers:https://www.instagram.com/p/C_a_9QCOQtg/https://www.fpjourne.com/en/collection/classique-collection/chronometre-souverain-havanaOnly Wrist:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/425-050-a-lange-sohne-1815-rattrapante-honeygoldhttps://hairspring.com/products/octa-calendrier-pink-goldhttps://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/patek-philippe-ref-5004r-rare-perpetual-calendar-split-seconds-101/115997
Feb 25, 2025
1 hr 9 min

In Part 2 of the series, Erik & Max turn their eye to the lesser discussed watchmakers alive and operating today. It’s not just independents, but it’s mostly independents. Perhaps not those you may have guessed, however. From Hazemann & Monnin to AdC, Kuan Rao, and Jean-Batiste Voit, it’s all here. Plus, what should a nightclub owner retiring to the Spanish countryside to make wine sport? And a few thoughts on this latest steel 1518. Links Mentioned:1518 Steel:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/monaco-legend-group-patek-steel-1518Morgan Aeromax:https://collectingcars.com/for-sale/2009-morgan-aeromaxHajime Asaoka:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-with-the-hajime-asaoka-tourbillon-1-high-end-independent-watchmaking-from-tokyo-japanhttps://www.fratellowatches.com/hajime-asaokas-new-tourbillon-noir-reasserts-the-independent-watchmakers-art-deco-style/Hazemann & Monnin: https://quillandpad.com/2023/02/24/victor-monnin-and-alexander-hazemanns-school-watches-two-talented-next-generation-watchmakers-to-look-out-for/https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/interview-hazemann-and-monninUrban Jürgensen Alfred:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/urban-jurgensen-the-alfred-hands-onP8 with Detent:https://www.phillips.com/detail/urban-jurgensen/CH080320/259Modern UJ Under Kari with P4:https://hairspring.com/exclusives/urban-jurgensen/1140-brown-dial-pink-gold/Atelier de Chronométrie:https://www.atelierdechronometrie.comhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/atelier-de-chronometrie-salonqp-introducinghttps://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/story-of-adcRexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rexhep-rexhepi-chronometre-antimagnetique-for-only-watchKuan Rao, Logan:https://monochrome-watches.com/interview-independent-watchmaker-chinese-china-logan-kuan-rao-orca-iceberg-wuwei-equal-push-escapement/(Frank Gehry Buildings, an Aside):https://www.architecturaldigest.com/gallery/best-of-frank-gehry-slideshowTheo Auffret:Jean-Batiste Voit Apprentice:https://www.ablogtowatch.com/j-b-viot-in-paris-watch/Theo Auffret Works:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-theo-auffret-tourbillonhttps://www.instagram.com/auffret_paris/?hl=enhttps://monochrome-watches.com/introducing-the-tourbillon-grand-sport-is-the-stunning-follow-up-to-theo-auffrets-break-out-piece-specs-price/Only Wrist:https://onlineonly.christies.com.cn/s/watches-online-geneva-edit/patek-philippe-steel-calatrava-ref-437-393/149927https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/model/5402
Feb 17, 2025
1 hr 7 min
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