Hairspring
Hairspring
Hairspring
Episode 21: WTF is Finishing
59 minutes Posted May 30, 2024 at 9:12 am.
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Erik & Max attempt to answer the question, ‘What separates good finishing from bad finishing?’ It is a question that requires them to go through all the various finishing techniques you’re likely to see in detail, explain why the Le Mans caseback is, sort of, ugly, and ask if you should care about inner angles. Plus, what should Indiana Jones have worn in Raiders of the Lost Ark?


Links Mentioned:


Memorial Day Article & Great Historic Watch Accounts:


https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/through-watches-those-who-have-died-in-service-of-their-country-are-remembered


https://www.instagram.com/niccoloy/


https://www.instagram.com/watchesofespionage/


Finishing: 


https://perezcope.com/2021/08/08/panerai-in-house-movements-a-pam-of-worms/


Côtes de Genève:


https://www.watchprosite.com/horological-meandering/what-makes-for-really-good-c%C3%B4tes-de-gen%C3%A8ve-/17.1298116.11050241/


https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/up-close-and-personal-with-the-2023-rolex-le-mans-daytona-ref-126529ln#&gid=1&pid=14


https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/philippe-dufour-crafts-watches


https://monochrome-watches.com/laurent-ferrier-galet-classic-tourbillon-double-spiral-reviewing-an-understated-masterpiece-photos-specs-and-price/


Anglage:


Flat 45-degree Anglage:


https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-omega-speedmaster-professional-moonwatch-master-chronometer-with-co-axial-caliber-3861#&gid=1&pid=4


Bercé or Bombé Style:


https://www.acollectedman.com/pages/rexhep-rexhepi-chronometre-contemporain-two


https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/watch-spotting-kari-voutilainen-interview#&gid=1&pid=8


Zero Chamfering:


https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/grand-seiko-hi-beat-36000-gmt-limited-edition-sbgj227-peacock-hands-on#&gid=1&pid=7


Matte or Frosted Bridges:


https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/with-the-romain-gauthier-logical-one-in-white-gold


https://watchesbysjx.com/2022/09/sylvain-pinaud-origine-review.html


https://watchesbysjx.com/2020/06/lange-sohne-handwerkskunst-reference-guide.html


Skeletonization:


https://hairspring.com/finds/43032-vacheron-constantin-skeleton-quantieme-perpetuel-platinum/


Black Polish:


https://monochrome-watches.com/hands-on-petermann-bedat-reference-2941-split-seconds-chronograph-specs-price/


https://hairspring.com/finds/kikuchi-nakagawa-murakumo/


Examples:


No Finishing Valjoux 7731:


https://thewatchspotblog.com/breitling-superocean-ref-2005-valjoux-cal-7731/


Industrially Finished Omega 3861:


https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/watch-omega-speedmaster-moonwatch-professional-co-axial-master-chronometer-chronograph-42-mm-31030425001002


Vintage Hand Finished Patek Philippe Calibre 12-20:


https://hairspring.com/exclusives/patek-philippe/592-salmon-dial-calatrava-steel/


https://revolutionwatch.com/history-of-the-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar-chronograph/


Traditional Finishing Style Performed Today:


https://www.acollectedman.com/products/philippe-dufour-grande-et-petite-sonnerie


Contemporary, More Innovative Finishing:


https://watchesbysjx.com/2023/07/petermann-bedat-reference-2941-split-seconds-chronograph-review.html


https://watchesbysjx.com/2018/04/introducing-the-romain-gauthier-insight-micro-rotor-in-black-titanium.html


16/1860:


https://hairspring.com/finds/16-1860-2-chopard-luc-calibre-1-96-2/


Only Wrist:


https://hairspring.com/exclusives/eberhard/11538-scientigraf-steel/


https://hairspring.com/finds/us-navy-tornek-rayville-tr-900/