
I was thrilled when Sami Tamimi told me he was coming to Paris. Sami recently released his third book, Boustany: A celebration of vegetables from my Palestine, so I invited him into my kitchen to make a recipe from it with me. And the weather was so nice, we decided to prepare it outside.Sami is the co-founder of the Ottolenghi restaurants and delis, and the author of Falastin, one of my favorite cookbooks, which explores his Palestinian heritage through stories and recipes from his homeland. Boustany focuses ore squarely on the vegetable dishes of Palestine. Sami’s book features a bounty of recipes that focus on vegetables, such as salads like the Fridge-raid fattoush, and there are beautifully verdant Gazan fava bean falafels. I’ve never made falafels, but his recipe and the gorgeous photo that accompanies it make me want to. Other recipes that I’ve bookmarked are the spicy Shatta condiment, Bulghur wheat dumplings & lentil soup, and Ouzi phyllo parcels, which are individual dishes filled with rice, orzo, vegetables, nuts, and spices. Where does chocolate fit in? Well, like tomatoes and squash (which are lavishly featured in the book), chocolate is also technically a fruit. And besides, who doesn’t love chocolate? Since I’ve been in the chocolate mode, thanks to The Great Book of Chocolate coming out, I was glad Sami was up for doing some baking and showed up ready to make his Tahini, Halvah, and Coffee Brownies.Subscribe to my newsletter and get videos, recipes, Paris tips, and more, sent right to your Inbox!Pan-baked tahini, halva & coffee brownie(Qahwa w Halaweh brownie)Reprinted with permission from Boustany: A Celebration of Vegetables from my Palestine by Sami Tamimi, copyright © 2025. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random HouseServes 6“Imagine yourself sitting in one of many coffee shops dotted around the souk in Jerusalem’s old city, having a piece of chocolate and a strong, sweet Arabic cardamom coffee. One mouthful of this dessert can almost definitely transport you there. It’s a dessert meant for sharing, to be spooned straight from the pan. A great, easy, chewy and fudgy brownie which can be ready in under 20 minutes. It hits all the right spots for chocolate lovers like me.”“This is the recipe exactly as it appears in Boustany. If you have watched me make these, you will know I improvise. I add more coffee if the batch I have is weaker, that sort of thing. The recipe below is the version I trust, so start there and make it yours.” - Sami TamimiRounded ½ cup / 150g tahini paste½ cup / 120ml lukewarm waterHeaping ½ cup | 3% oz / 110g granulated sugar2 large eggs½ cup / 20g unsweetened cocoa powder1 tbsp instant espresso coffee¼ cup / 1 oz / 30g all-purpose flour½ tsp ground cardamom½ tsp ground cloves½ tsp baking powdersalt1½ oz / 40g dark chocolate chips or chocolate roughly chopped into ¼ inch | ½ cm pieces (70% cocoa solids) (½ cup chopped)For the toppings1½ tbsp sesame seeds1½ oz / 40g dark chocolate chips or chocolate roughly chopped into ¼ inch | ½ cm pieces (70% cocoa solids) (½ cup chopped)⅓ cup | 70g plain or vanilla halva, broken into chunksvanilla ice creamPreheat the oven to 375°F. Grease a 8-inch | 22cm square baking pan or dish with sunflower oil and set aside.Put the tahini and water into the bowl of a stand mixer, with the paddle attachment in place, and mix on medium-high speed for 2 minutes, until pale and smooth. Reduce to low speed, add the sugar, then the eggs, one at a time, and mix for a further 2 minutes.Sift all the dry ingredients, using a fine sieve, and add them to the tahini mixture, along with aheaping ¼ teaspoon of salt and the chocolate. Mix for a minute more. Pour the batter into the prepared pan.Sprinkle the top with the sesame seeds and chocolate and dot with the halva. Bake for 10-12 minutes, until the edges are set and the center is not runny (it needs to be slightly wet). Set aside for 10 minutes before serving.Serve with vanilla ice cream.The brownie can be stored in the fridge for up to a week.You can also watch me and Sami make the Chocolate salted butter caramel lava cakes (below) from The Great Book of Chocolate here. This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit davidlebovitz.substack.com/subscribe
Aug 12
7 min

A highlight of writing Drinking French was getting to meet, and highlight, some of my favorite creative people in Paris, and in France, who are part of the cocktail scene, which has rapidly expanded over the years, turning Paris into one of the world’s most exciting cocktail destinations. Franck was one of the heroes in Drinking French, and as you can see in the video, there are more pictures of him in my book…than of me.After working in an art gallery in Paris, Franck went on to work at the highly celebrated restaurant, Le Châteaubriand, where chef Inaki Aizpitarte was invigorating, and shaking up, the world of French cuisine. Franck saw how the world of cocktails was changing outside of France, and decided to delve into cocktails as well, creating cocktails that leaned into French spirits and ingredients.Subscribe to my newsletter to get videos, recipes, Paris tips, and more, sent right to your Inbox!In his book, art, film, and Franck’s distinctive style intersect with his expertly made cocktails, which are deceptively simple. Most are careful revisions of classics such as the Tunnel, a reimagined Negroni served in a coupe glass. And his Yellow cocktail is a masterful mixture of Yellow Chartreuse, gin, lemon juice, and Suze gentian liqueur. (It’s one of my top three favorite cocktails of all time.)What began as an extraordinarily charming (twenty-seat!) café tucked into a magnificent Hector Guimard Art Deco building, Cravan has extended to a four-story building in the heart of the Saint-Germain-des-Prés, where Franck invited me to stop by for a French 75 on a warm summer afternoon. It was cool perfection in a glass. À santé! French 75Adapted from Cravan: Cocktails and More, Recipes from ParisOne cocktailTo make his interpretation of the French 75, Franck infuses London dry gin with agastache, known in English as dried anise hyssop. I’ve included the recipe for the infusion and the simple syrup after the cocktail recipe. 1 ounce (30ml) anise hyssop-infused London dry gin1/2 ounce (15ml) simple syrup1/2 ounce (15ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice1 dash of absintheLemon twistBrut (dry) champagneCombine the gin, simple syrup, lemon juice, absinthe, and lemon twist in a cocktail shaker. Fill three-quarters full with ice. Cover and shake vigorously for two seconds. Double strain the mixture into a chilled coupe glass. Top with champagne and serve.-To make the anise hyssop-infused gin, mix 1 3/4 teaspoons (5g) dried anise hyssop flowers with 24 ounces (700g) London dry gin. Cover, shake gently, and refrigerate for 24 hours. Strain, then filter the gin through a premoistened paper filter, such as a coffee filter. Store refrigerated.Dried anise hyssop, which is different than anise, can be found at herbalists and well-stocked natural food stores. A few places to get it online: Reverie Farm, The Herb Loft, and Etsy. I’ve not tried the cocktail without the infused gin but you could give it a go with uninfused London dry gin.-To make the simple syrup, heat 3 ounces (90g) sugar with 3 ounces (90g) water over low heat, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Refrigerate until thoroughly chilled.-A dash of absinthe adds a little je ne sais quoi to cocktails. Pastis and anisette have a similar flavor profile and you could use one of those, sparingly. This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit davidlebovitz.substack.com/subscribe
Aug 6
6 min

Places mentioned in the video where I shopped: Miyam, Terroirs de Avenir, Pari Local and Leonie bakery…You may have noticed I moved my Paris shopping videos here from Instagram. Subscribe to my newsletter and get them sent right to your inbox! Get the Tapenade with fig recipe here: This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit davidlebovitz.substack.com/subscribe
Jul 16
19 min

It’s been hotter than heck in Paris, and we’re in the midst of our third heatwave. One way our friends in Italy beat the heat (and get their coffee fix) is to make affogato, a dish of ice cream “drowned” in espresso, with liquor sometimes added, giving it an extra kick. I met Margot Lecarpentier when writing my book, Drinking French. Margot is the owner and head bartender of Combat, one of my favorite cocktail bars in Paris, and she stopped by to make a spirited affogato for me, under the shade of our fig tree.Affogato is often made with vanilla ice cream but Margot asked me to make a batch of chocolate sorbet, which was perfect with the mix of liquors she stirred up.Subscribe to my newsletter to get recipes, videos, posts, and more, sent right to your Inbox!The amaro Margot chose, Rabarbaro Nardini, which is made from rhubarb and has a husky flavor that works beautifully with the other ingredients. There are a lot of amaros/amari out there, and ones such as Fernet-Branca, Braulio, and Dell’Etna, have their own distinctive vegetal notes. You could use one of those, or whatever is available. You can certainly change the other ingredients to your liking as well, such as swapping in amaretto for the coffee liqueur, or whiskey for the rum, although as I noted in the video, her recipe — as she made it — was truly the best affogato I’ve ever had.[btw: In the video, you’ll notice some steam drifting across the table. That’s water for heating the ice cream scoop 😄, which helps make nicely-shaped scoops.] Enjoy the affogato…and stay cool!AffogatoTwo regular servings, or one generous servingIn the video, we shared a generous scoop but you can use this recipe to make two individual portions; feel free to adjust quantities to your taste. Vanilla ice cream is the classic, but Margo thought it’d be fun to use my Chocolate sorbet, and her instincts were spot on.3/4 ounce (20ml) of each; dark rum, amaro, and coffee liqueur2 generous scoops, or several smaller scoops, of ice cream 2 shots of espressoMix together the rum, amaro and coffee liqueur in a small pitcher or measuring cup.Put a scoop, or several scoops, of ice cream in two separate ice cream dishes. Divide the liquor mixture over the two portions of ice cream and add a shot of espresso to each one. Want more chocolate? Check out my new book: The Great Book of Chocolate! This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit davidlebovitz.substack.com/subscribe
Jul 10
5 min

Subscribe to my newsletter to get posts, recipes, videos, and more, sent right to your inbox! This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit davidlebovitz.substack.com/subscribe
Jul 2
29 min

I met Carlos Moreno when he was delivering taco kits during the pandemic, when we all wanted to eat “out,” but were stuck eating in. Prior to that period Mexican food wasn’t well represented in Paris. (A lesser-known fact is that France tried to colonize Mexico twice in the mid-1800s.) I loved Carlos’ food and we had a few nice conversations on the sidewalk when he made his deliveries.Since then he’s gone on to open his own restaurant in Paris, Comer. As I mention in the video, you might not think you want to go to a Mexican restaurant in Paris, but I can assure you that yes, you do. It’s really, really good. His cooking is based in traditional Mexican fare with lively moles and amazing salsas, as well as a menu that changes based on the season and what’s available, which includes tostadas with raw tuna crudo, peas and citrus, tacos with pork al pastor, a mille-feuille of fresh tomatoes with housemade salsa macha, and a truly melt-in-your-mouth horneado of beef. One item on the dessert menu that’s a particular favorite are his mole brownies, which are slightly spicy, and served with a vanilla atole sauce and mezcal.I was happy that when I asked Carlos to stop by and make his famous brownies with me, he said yes. We didn’t make the vanilla atole sauce (you can find my recipe here), which he spikes with mezcal at Comer, but the brownies were delicious all on their own. I hope you enjoy them as much as we did making them! And if you’re in Paris, Comer is some of the best Mexican food you’ll ever have, anywhere. Comer96 rue d’Hauteville (10th)ParisSubscribe to my newsletter to get new posts, recipes, videos, Paris travel tips, and more, sent right to your inbox! This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit davidlebovitz.substack.com/subscribe
Jun 20
9 min

As someone who is passionate about cookbooks, I’m always up for talking about them with other cookbook collectors. I know there are lots of cookbook collectors out there, but one who really stands out is Jenna Helwig, who writes the Cookbookery Collective newsletter, which she describes as:…a hub for the cookbook community—authors, eaters, cooks, editors, publicists, publishers, agents, and aspiring authors alike. It’s a place to celebrate all cookbooks, new and old, blockbuster and under-the-radar. It’s a place to hear from your favorite authors and talk amongst ourselves in the comments section. It’s a place where everyone is welcome, whether you have just a handful of beloved books or a collection in the hundreds.I couldn’t have said it better, except to add what a wonderful resource Jenna, and her newsletter, have become to the cookbook community, which features interviews with cookbook authors, including me……plus seasonal round-ups of the latest cookbooks to hit the shelves, previews of cookbooks that are about to be released, as well as recipes from her favorite cookbooks. Not only does Jenna write a newsletter, she’s also the food director at Real Simple magazine, the author of five cookbooks, and runs a personal chef business. Whew!In addition to her other activities, Jenna is now a novelist, having penned her first novel, coming out this Fall, The Foreign Correspondent’s Wife, a mystery set in Paris. I was thrilled to get a chance to sit down for this podcast episode with Jenna to talk about our favorite subject: Cookbooks! We talked about everything, from what makes a good cookbook (and what drives her crazy in a cookbook) to how she decides which cookbooks that cross her desk she holds on to, and which ones she lets go. We also discussed what she thinks of influencer cookbooks, and talked about one of the big questions of our time - how will AI affect cookbooks, and will it (or can it) replace them. Subscribe to my newsletter to get future podcasts, videos, recipes, and Paris travel tips, sent right to your inbox!I hope you enjoy my chat with Jenna as much as I did…and let us know in the comments what are some of your favorite cookbooks, and why. - David* Follow Cookbookery Collective and Jenna Helwig on Instagram* Visit Jenna Helwig’s website* Subscribe to the Cookbookery Collective newsletter This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit davidlebovitz.substack.com/subscribe
Jun 3
49 min

It’s no secret that one of my favorite places in Paris is G. Detou. In fact, I depend on it so much, for everything from chocolate to vanilla—and lots, lots more. I’ve been quoted as saying that if G. Detou didn’t exist, I couldn’t live in Paris. It’s got everything I need.Owner Benoît Bourloton is a busy man, spending his days keeping the shop well-stocked with a wide variety of French chocolates, as well as other delicacies. Since we’ve become friends (and what a friend to have!), I asked Benoît if I could stop by and discuss French chocolates, and he gladly invited me into the shop to talk about some of them. I hope you enjoy the video!-DavidSubscribe to my newsletter to get recipes, videos, podcasts, and Paris stories sent right to your Inbox! This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit davidlebovitz.substack.com/subscribe
May 28
11 min

When I told Deb Perelman of Smitten Kitchen that I was doing a complete revision of The Great Book of Chocolate, which included adding new recipes, she insisted that I include her Chocolate-Olive Oil Spread. For those who follow Deb know that when she says something is delicious and worth making, you not only listen, but in my case, you spread the word. No pun intended. As luck would have it, Deb was recently in Paris so I invited her into my kitchen to make her Chocolate-Olive Oil Spread. As you can see in the video, not only is the recipe fun to make, but its very easy as well. And unlike store-bought spreads, you know exactly what’s in it. The only thing that’s a bit tricky is to get it to just the right consistency for spreading. But if I can do it, so can you. Deb finishes the dark chocolate spread by leaving it on the counter at room temperature for a few hours, whereas in The Great Book of Chocolate, I’m a bit more impatient so I place it in the refrigerator until it reaches the right consistency, then transfer it to a jar. Because it has no dairy, it can be stored at room temperature.After you make this spread, if you find that it’s too firm, a few seconds in the microwave will soften it just enough to make it spreadable. If you don’t have a microwave, you can warm the jar in a small saucepan of warm water. The temperature of your room can be a factor, and I did find that using a high-percentage chocolate — one that’s 70% or more cacao solids — will firm up more solidly than one that’s 50-55% cacao solids, which is what we used in the video. [Thanks to Irene Wong for shooting the video, Michael Sellers for editing.] This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit davidlebovitz.substack.com/subscribe
May 11
6 min

One of my favorite parts about writing my chocolate book was getting to explore, and share, the world of chocolate. Chocolate is a pretty wonderful ingredient all by itself. But I wanted to feature friends in the chocolate world, so I culled recipes from bakers, pastry chefs, chocolatiers, cookbook authors, and even bartenders for the book. For the revision of The Great Book of Chocolate, I completely rewrote the book (since so much has changed!) and wanted to include a chocolate marshmallow recipe. So I thought about Amanda Bankert of Boneshaker donuts in Paris, who taught me how to make vegan marshmallows, which were game-changers since many people have asked me about substitutions for the gelatin and egg whites that are normally used in marshmallow recipes. Subscribe to my newsletter to get recipes, videos, stories from Paris, and more, sent right to your Inbox!Amanda is one of the most fun people I know, and is also a graduate of the prestigious Cordon Bleu cooking school in Paris. So when revising The Great Book of Chocolate, I thought, “Why not veganize chocolate marshmallows?” With the book coming out in less than a month, I then thought, “Wouldn’t it be fun to have Amanda come over and make them with me in my kitchen?”So we made a video of us preparing them together. We had such a good time whipping them up, and it’s great that anyone - vegan or not - can enjoy these delicious marshmallows. And next time you’re in Paris, stop by Boneshaker for a donut and a cup of coffee. Like Amanda, her shop is one of the most fun things in Paris. And if you see her behind the counter, say hi for me, and enjoy the video!A few helpful tips to read before making the recipe:* Be sure to stir and scrape the bottom of the pot while the syrup is cooking to scrape up any agar-agar that’s sticking to the pan.* The better (and darker) the cocoa powder, the tastier the marshmallows will be. I like Valrhona cocoa powder and Guittard cocoa rouge. King Arthur sells a double dark cocoa blend that I haven’t tried, but any Dutch-process cocoa powder will do. Hershey’s Special Dark is a sleeper in this category, and affordable.* You may have to do a bit of shopping to get the xanthan gum and agar-agar, a natural gelatin substitute, which, interestingly, is sold in French grocery stores. Natural food stores or online shops are good places to look where you live. In Paris, G. Detou sells them, as well as cream of tartar. The good thing is, you’ll have them on hand for next time : ) * Aquafaba is the chickpea cooking liquid found in canned chickpeas, not jarred, nor is it the liquid from dried chickpeas that you cook at home. (Interestingly, aquafaba was “discovered” by a French opera singer.) In the U.S., generally one 15-ounce/425g can yields 3/4 cup (180ml) liquid, but you may want to get an extra can just to be sure. (You can use the chickpeas to make my really good hummus.) * It’s nice to have a helper in the kitchen to steady the bowl while you fold in the cocoa powder, as I did with Amanda. If you’re by yourself, resting the mixing bowl on a silicone baking mat will help keep the bowl in place. * And don’t forget to pre-order The Great Book of Chocolate - it’s out May 5th and you’ll be the first to get a copy! This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit davidlebovitz.substack.com/subscribe
Apr 11
16 min
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