
Are you washing your face the right way? Is double cleansing
always necessary? And why do dermatologists say that "squeaky clean"
skin is actually a bad thing?
In this episode of the After Hours Skin Clinic podcast,
Consultant Dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid explain everything you need to know about facial cleansers, skin barriers and how to choose the right cleanser for your skin type.
From acne-prone skin and eczema to rosacea and sensitive
skin, Emma and Ellie break down how cleansers work, why some can damage your skin barrier, and why an expensive cleanser isn't necessarily a better one.
You'll learn why cleansing is one of the most important steps in your skincare, how easy it is to get wrong, and how using the incorrect
product could be undoing the benefits of the rest of your routine.
This episode covers:
Are you washing your face the right way? Yes, there
is a right way!
Why "squeaky clean" skin is a warning sign
How cleansers actually work
The truth about double cleansing
How to choose the right cleanser for your skin type
The difference between cream, foaming and salicylic acid
cleansers
Cleansers for acne, rosacea, eczema and sensitive skin
Why your skin barrier matters
Should you use hot or cold water?
How long should you cleanse for?
Do expensive cleansers work better?
Should you wash your face in the morning?
Are cleansing brushes and facial scrubs damaging your skin?
Emma and Ellie also explain why cleanser is one of the most important steps in any skincare routine, how to avoid over-cleansing, and the
simple techniques they recommend to patients every day in clinic.
This episode includes a paid partnership with @cerave, a skincare brand developed with dermatologists, focused on repairing and strengthening the skin barrier. Emma and Ellie discuss the different CeraVe cleanser formulations and how they may suit different skin types and concerns.
If you've ever felt overwhelmed by the number of cleansers
available, or wondered whether you're actually cleansing your skin correctly, then this episode is for you.
👇 Let us know your skincare questions in
the comments.
🔔 Subscribe for dermatologist-led, evidence-based skincare.
🎧 Listen on Apple Podcasts & Spotify.
🎥 Watch us on YouTube @afterhoursskinclinic.
Find us on Instagram and TikTok @afterhoursskinclinic.
Products mentioned:
CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser
CeraVe Foaming Cleanser
CeraVe Blemish Control Cleanser
CeraVe SA Smoothing Cleanser
Dr Emma and Dr Ellie’s Cleanser cheat-sheet…
Dry
CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser
Gently removes dirt while helping support the skin barrier with ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
Sensitive
CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser
A gentle, non-stripping formula that's suitable for easily irritated skin.
Eczema-prone
CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser
Cleanses without leaving skin feeling tight or "squeaky clean".
Rosacea-prone
CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser
A gentle cream cleanser that's less likely to disrupt an already sensitive skin barrier.
Normal skin
CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser or Foaming Cleanser
Choose based on your preferred texture—cream or foam.
Combination skin
CeraVe Foaming Cleanser
Removes excess oil while helping maintain the skin barrier.
Oily skin
CeraVe Foaming Cleanser
Cleanses away oil and impurities without leaving skin stripped.
Breakout-prone
CeraVe Blemish Control Cleanser
Contains 2% salicylic acid & Niacinamide. It Unclogs pores & helps regulate excess oil. Also suitable for those who may be prone to acne.
Blackheads & clogged pores
CeraVe Blemish Control Cleanser
Contains 2% salicylic acid. It penetrates & unclogs pores to help clear congestion.
Bumpy Body Skin
CeraVe SA Smoothing Cleanser
Contains 2% Salicylic acid. It gently exfoliates while moisturising to help support the skin barrier. Also suitable for those prone to Keratosis Pilaris (KP).
Body Breakouts
CeraVe SA Smoothing Cleanser
A practical body cleanser for breakout-prone areas. Also suitable for those who may be prone to acne on their body.
Disclaimer: This cheat sheet is not part of the episode sponsorship, recommendations are Emma & Ellie’s own.
Producer: Ella Blaxill
Series Editor: Eve Streeter
Music: Simon Elms
This is a Raconteur Studios Production.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
Jul 16
27 min

What are the biggest skincare myths dermatologists wish everyone would stop believing? Here’s Consultant dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne’s and Dr Ellie Rashid’s top ten skin truths.
To celebrate the 100th episode of the After Hours Skin Clinic podcast, Consultant Dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid share their ten biggest skin truths. Evidence-based advice they wish every patient knew.
From sunscreen and pores to expensive skincare, hydration, dandruff and skin cancer, Emma and Ellie separate fact from fiction, debunk some of the internet's biggest skincare myths, and explain what really matters when it comes to healthy skin.
Whether you're building your first skincare routine or trying to make sense of conflicting advice on social media, this episode is packed with practical, science-backed guidance from two consultant dermatologists.
This episode covers:
The biggest skincare myths dermatologists hear every day
Can you really open and close your pores?
Does shaving make hair grow back thicker?
How to understand your own skin type
Why "medical grade" skincare is mostly a marketing term
Should you trust skincare claims and before-and-after photos?
Does expensive skincare actually work better?
Why consistency beats complicated skincare routines
Why wearing sunscreen every day matters for skin ageing
Does drinking more water hydrate your skin?
What skin cancer really looks like (it's not what you might think)
What dandruff actually is and why oils can make it worse
Emma and Ellie also discuss why personalised skincare is more effective than copying someone else's routine, how to avoid misleading marketing claims, and the simple habits that have the biggest impact on long-term skin health.
Whether you're new to skincare or a lifelong skincare enthusiast, these are the skin truths every dermatologist wishes more people knew.
👇 Let us know your thoughts in the comments
Find us on Instagram
👀 Watch us on Youtube
🔔 Subscribe for dermatologist-led, evidence-based skincare.
🎧 Listen on Apple Podcasts & Spotify.
Products mentioned:
Nizoral® (Ketoconazole 2%) Shampoo
Klira - Founded by Dr Emma Craythorne, Klira is a bespoke luxury skincare formula prescribed by dermatologists. You may hear it mentioned from time to time on the podcast and if you want to find out more head over to klira.skin
Producer: Ella Blaxill
Series Editor: Eve Streeter
Music: Simon Elms
This is a Raconteur Studios Production.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
Jul 9
19 min

Summer can be one of the easiest times to accidentally damage your skin.
In this episode of the After Hours Skin Clinic podcast, Consultant Dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid answer the questions they're asked every year about preparing your skin for summer.
Should you wax before your holiday? Is a "base tan" ever a good idea? Do you need a complicated skincare routine on a flight? And can I use last year's sunscreen?
Emma and Ellie explain how to time beauty treatments to minimise irritation and pigmentation, why sunbeds are never worth the risk, and how simple changes to your routine can help keep your skin healthy all summer long.
This episode covers:
Preparing your skin for summer
Laser hair removal, waxing and shaving before holidays
How to avoid post-inflammatory pigmentation
Retinoids, exfoliating acids and summer skincare
In-flight skincare myths
Holiday acne and travel breakouts
Perfume, essential oils and UV reactions
Lime juice and phytophotodermatitis
Why a "base tan" doesn't protect your skin
The risks of sunbeds and skin cancer
When to replace your sunscreen
Favourite summer skincare essentials
Whether you're planning a beach holiday, spending more time outdoors or simply want to protect your skin this summer, this episode is packed with practical, evidence-based advice from two consultant dermatologists.
👇 Let us know your thoughts in the comments
👀 Watch us on Youtube
🔔 Subscribe for dermatologist-led, evidence-based skincare.
Products mentioned:
Ultrasun Lip Protection SPF
NUXE Huile Prodigieuse® Or (Shimmer Dry Oil)
Producer: Ella Blaxill
Series Editor: Eve Streeter
Music: Simon Elms
This is a Raconteur Studios Production.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
Jul 2
25 min

Consultant dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid explain what keratosis pilaris (KP), also known as strawberry skin or chicken skin, actually is, why it develops around hair follicles, and which evidence-based treatments work best, including lactic acid, urea creams, chemical exfoliants, retinoids, moisturisers and laser hair removal.
In this episode:
What keratosis pilaris (KP) actually is
Why people call it strawberry skin or chicken skin
The real cause of keratosis pilaris
Why KP often runs in families
The connection between hair follicles, keratin and inflammation
Why KP gets worse during winter
The truth about physical exfoliation and scrubs
Lactic acid vs salicylic acid: which works best?
The role of urea creams and moisturisers
When retinoids may help
Why laser hair removal may be one of the most effective treatments
How to prevent redness and pigmentation
Key Takeaways:
Keratosis pilaris affects around 50% of people
Physical scrubbing can make KP worse
Chemical exfoliants outperform mechanical exfoliation
10% lactic acid appears more effective than 5% salicylic acid
Urea-based moisturisers help soften and smooth rough skin
Consistent moisturising supports the skin barrier
SPF helps prevent post-inflammatory pigmentation
Laser hair removal may provide longer-term improvement
Products Mentioned:
Ameliorate Transforming Body Lotion
Eucerin UreaRepair
The Ordinary Glycolic Acid
CeraVe SA Smoothing Range
Cetaphil Salicylic Acid Range
Subscribe for evidence-based skincare advice from consultant dermatologists.
Follow & Connect:
Instagram: @afterhoursskinclinic
Email: [email protected]
Producer: Ella Blaxill
Exec: Eve Streeter
Music by Simon Elms.
This is a Raconteur Studios Production.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
Jun 25
26 min

Do mineral sunscreens really work better than chemical sunscreens? Are chemical filters actually harmful? And what should you believe when sunscreen misinformation is everywhere?
In this episode of the After Hours Skin Clinic podcast, Consultant Dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid tackle one of the most controversial topics in skincare: the debate between mineral and chemical sunscreens.
From TikTok myths and conspiracy theories to concerns about ingredient absorption, coral reefs, vitamin D, and skin cancer, Emma and Ellie break down what the evidence actually says about sunscreen safety and effectiveness.
They explain why sunscreen remains one of the most important tools we have for preventing skin cancer, pigmentation, and premature ageing — and why fear-based misinformation could be putting people at risk.
This episode covers:
Mineral vs chemical sunscreens: what's the difference?
Are chemical sunscreen filters absorbed into the body?
The truth about oxybenzone and sunscreen safety studies
Why absorption does not equal toxicity
Common sunscreen myths circulating on social media
Do sunscreens cause cancer?
What the evidence says about skin cancer prevention
Coral reefs, environmental concerns, and sunscreen bans
Can sunscreen cause vitamin D deficiency?
Why UV exposure still damages skin, even in the UK
How sunscreen helps prevent pigmentation and premature ageing
The importance of UVA, UVB and visible light protection
Why finding a sunscreen you enjoy using matters most
The best sunscreen formulations for different skin types
Emma and Ellie also share the sunscreens they regularly recommend in clinic, discuss why sunscreen technology has improved dramatically over the past decade, and explain why the "mineral versus chemical" debate isn't actually a competition at all.
This episode includes a paid partnership with Eucerin, a skincare brand with a long history of dermatological research. During the episode, Emma and Ellie discuss Eucerin Oil Control Gel Cream SPF50+ and the formulation features that may make it suitable for oily and acne-prone skin. All opinions expressed remain those of the hosts.
If you've ever felt confused by conflicting sunscreen advice online, this episode will help you separate evidence from misinformation.
👇 Let us know your thoughts in the comments
🔔 Subscribe for dermatologist-led, evidence-based skincare
🎧 Listen on Apple Podcasts & Spotify
Products mentioned:
Eucerin Oil Control Gel Cream SPF50+
Altruist Sunscreen
Klira The DayScript
Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Aqua-Fresh Rice Sunscreen
Producer: Ella Blaxill
Series Editor: Eve Streeter
Music: Simon Elms
This is a Raconteur Studios Production.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
Jun 18
34 min

Why do some people blush more than others? When is facial redness simply normal, and when could it be rosacea?
In this episode of After Hours Skin Clinic, consultant dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid discuss the causes of facial flushing, blushing and persistent redness, and explain the treatments available for rosacea and other common triggers.
They cover the science behind emotional blushing, menopause-related flushing, alcohol flush reactions, visible facial blood vessels and chronic facial redness. They also share practical skincare advice, treatment options and dermatologist-recommended sunscreens for sensitive, rosacea-prone skin.
Topics covered:
Facial flushing and blushing
Rosacea symptoms and diagnosis
Menopause hot flushes
Alcohol flush reaction
Emotional blushing and anxiety
Azelaic acid and ivermectin
Brimonidine and beta blockers
Laser treatment for redness
Micro-Botox for rosacea
Sunscreens for sensitive skin
Products and Treatments Mentioned:
Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser
Azelaic Acid
Ivermectin 1% Cream
TretinoinBrimonidine
Propranolol
Carvedilol
HRT
Fezolinetant
La Roche-Posay Anthelios Children's Fluid SPF
La Roche-Posay Anthelios Comfort SPF
Garnier Sensitive Advanced UV Fluid with Niacinamide & Hyaluronic Acid
Follow & Connect:
YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/@AfterHoursSkinClinic
Instagram: @afterhoursskinclinic
Email: [email protected]
Producer: Ella Blaxill
Series Editor: Eve Streeter
Music: Simon Elms
A Raconteur Studios Production.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
Jun 11
23 min

Wish you had all the skincare advice and information you need in one place?
This week's episode is a little different from your usual After Hours Skin Clinic. Dr Emma Craythorne has written a book, Skin: An Owner's Guide, and Dr Ellie Rashid is putting her in the hot seat to talk all about it.
Emma shares why she swore she'd never write another book after her first experience, what inspired her to create Skin: An Owner's Guide, and the skin science she believes everyone should understand. From the skin barrier and microbiome to ageing, skincare ingredients and common skin conditions, this conversation is a behind-the-scenes look at the book Emma describes as her "love letter to skin".
Plus, we'll be giving away signed copies of the book.
To enter, head over to our Instagram
Please check the competition dates before entering.
Klira – Founded by Dr Emma Craythorne, Klira creates bespoke prescription skincare formulated by dermatologists. Find out more at klira.skin.
Follow & Connect with us ⬇️
YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/@AfterHoursSkinClinic
Instagram: @afterhoursskinclinic
Email: [email protected]
Producer: Ella Blaxill
Executive Producer: Eve Streeter
Music: Simon Elms
This is a Raconteur Studios production.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
Jun 4
19 min

Dry hands are not just a winter problem and if your skin is cracking, stinging or constantly flaring, there is usually more going on than “just dryness.”
In this episode of the After Hours Skin Clinic, Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid unpack the different types of hand dermatitis, why some people are genetically prone to eczema, and how everyday habits like over-washing, wet work and even handling receipts can quietly damage the skin barrier.
They explain the difference between atopic eczema, irritant dermatitis, allergic contact dermatitis and pompholyx eczema, including the hidden allergens that can keep hand eczema going for years without people realising it.
They explore:
Who is especially vulnerable to hand eczema
The role of filaggrin and skin barrier dysfunction
Why soap can make eczema dramatically worse
How patch testing works and why it can completely change treatment outcomes
The surprising reason some steroid creams can worsen eczema
The best soap substitutes and moisturisers for dry, damaged hands
How to protect hands properly with gloves and overnight treatments
New prescription treatments for chronic hand eczema now available through specialist dermatology clinics
There are also practical recommendations throughout the episode, including favourite dermatologist-approved hand creams, cleansers and barrier repair strategies that can genuinely improve painful fissures and chronic dryness.
Products mentioned include:
Dermol 500
Aveeno Hand Ointment
CeraVe Healing Ointment
La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Hands
O’Keeffe’s Working Hands
If your hands are persistently dry, cracked, itchy or inflamed - especially if treatments never seem to fully work - this episode explains what might be missing.
Follow & Connect with us ⬇️
YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/@AfterHoursSkinClinic
Instagram: @afterhoursskinclinic
Email: [email protected]
Producer: Ella Blaxill
Exec: Eve Streeter
Music by Simon Elms.
This is a Raconteur Studios Production.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
May 28
29 min

Are you over-exfoliating your skin without realising it?
In this episode, consultant dermatologists Dr Ellie Rashid and Dr Emma Craythorne explain what exfoliation actually does, how to get glowing skin safely, and why so many people damage their skin barrier chasing “glass skin”.
They cover:
The difference between chemical and physical exfoliation
Why sensitive skin can react badly to exfoliants
The real reason exfoliation increases sun sensitivity
The best exfoliants for acne, dull skin and ageing skin
Why retinoids often outperform scrubs and acids
The truth about dermaplaning and whether hair grows back thicker
Hidden exfoliants in skincare, including pineapple and papaya enzymes
How to protect your skin barrier while still getting glowing skin
If you want evidence-based skincare, honest dermatologist advice, and real answers about acne, pigmentation, ageing and skin health, this is the podcast for you.
Follow & Connect with us ⬇️
YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/@AfterHoursSkinClinic
Instagram: @afterhoursskinclinic
Email: [email protected]
Producer: Ella Blaxill
Exec: Eve Streeter
Music by Simon Elms.
This is a Raconteur Studios Production.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
May 21
17 min

Why does your ponytail suddenly feel thinner? Why does your parting look wider in photos? And why are so many women told that hair thinning is “just part of ageing” ... with very little guidance on what to do next?
In this episode of the After Hours Skin Clinic , consultant dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid unpack the science, myths and emotional reality of female pattern hair loss.
From hormonal shifts and nutritional deficiencies to stress, postpartum shedding and scalp inflammation, they explain why female hair thinning is often misunderstood and why early diagnosis matters more than most people realise.
Expect evidence-based advice, practical treatment insights, and a few unexpectedly funny moments involving ketoconazole shampoo and a very confused patient.
Inside this episode:
What female pattern hair loss actually is (and why it’s different from male pattern baldness)
The signs dermatologists look for during scalp examination and trichoscopy
Why hair loss in women is often dismissed for too long
The role of hormones, genetics, thyroid health, stress and menopause
Iron, ferritin, zinc and vitamin D: the blood tests that really matter
Why “hair vitamins” aren’t always the answer
How dandruff and seborrhoeic dermatitis can affect scalp health and hair growth
The truth about minoxidil, including the “dread shed”
Oral minoxidil, spironolactone, finasteride and other medical treatments
PRP, microneedling, laser-assisted delivery and LED helmets, what does the evidence actually say?
Why postpartum hair shedding can sometimes uncover underlying female pattern hair loss
When thinning hair could signal something more serious
This episode is for anyone who has ever looked at their hairbrush, widened parting or thinning ponytail and wondered: is this normal and what can I do about it?
Follow & Connect with us ⬇️
YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/@AfterHoursSkinClinic
Instagram: @afterhoursskinclinic
Email: [email protected]
Producer: Ella Blaxill
Exec: Eve Streeter
Music by Simon Elms.
This is a Raconteur Studios Production.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
May 14
38 min
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