A Coffee in the Accursed Mountains
A Coffee in the Accursed Mountains
Elizabeth Gowing and Rob Wilton
Stories of Balkan life and culture from the countries bordered by the Accursed Mountains - Kosovo, Albania and Montenegro
Out from behind the curtain? Magazinović, Zagorka, and the enduring challenge for women journalists in the Balkans
Croatia’s first female journalist had to work behind a curtain to avoid offending her male colleagues, the start of a 150-year struggle for the region’s women. We explore their realities in a (2024) conversation with pioneering Kosovan journalist Jeta Xharra
Jun 15, 2025
32 min
Write to protest: Musine Kokalari of Albania
Musine Kokalari (1917 - 1983) was Albania's first published woman, created a political party, and dared to speak out for pluralism when her country was falling to communism. She spent nearly 40 years in imprisonment and internment, writing alone. Nashi Brooker, who herself experienced the dictatorship, tells us why Musine still matters.
Sep 14, 2023
16 min
The bandit woman and the businesswomen: Shote Galica of Kosovo
Shote Galica (1895 - 1927) took up a gun and fought tradition as well as oppression. We hear her story and talk to designer Ilire Lepaja - owner of a Kosovan business whose products celebrate Shote – about why Shote inspires women today.
Apr 24, 2023
28 min
The one with the Ashkali karateist who can
Sabile Gashi is a many-times medal-winning karateist from Kosovo's Ashkali community. We hear about the inspiration of Kosovo’s Olympian women and Sabile’s motivation in paying forward the opportunities she's had, being told 'you can't; you're a girl' and deciding she can.
Jan 5, 2022
13 min
The one with the Kosovan train
We clank through beautiful countryside and through time on one of Prishtina’s two daily trains: an adventure for Edith Durham 120 years ago, a horror in the 1999 war, and now part of Kosovo’s European future – if you have a visa.
Sep 29, 2021
20 min
The one with the pioneering princess
Montenegro’s Princess Xenia (1881 – 1960) was a bold and talented photographer and a crucial aide to her father’s efforts to build a new kingdom. On a trip through Cetinje’s mountain landscape, we enjoy her photographs - and gallons of blueberry juice.
Jun 27, 2021
21 min
The one with Pomegranate and Steel: a taste of Albanian names
This episode introduces some beautifully-named Albanians narrating the meaning of their names, and offers a glimpse of Communist Albania through its list of approved names. And who is honoured in the names Villson, Tonibler and Marenglen? And why?
Mar 22, 2021
16 min
Old-style Kosovo hospitality; new TripAdvisor triumph
Kosovo's most popular attraction is also one of its oldest. Meet Bekim and hear the story of how his team of young professionals created the unique Ethnological Museum, a cultural treasure trove and an important site of collective memory.
Feb 7, 2021
25 min
The one with... mountain tea
Our first Coffee In the Accursed Mountains is not in fact an episode about coffee. From the countries bordering the mountains we take another signature hot drink - mountain tea. Marjoram or sideritis - we talk about what your choice of mountain tea says about you. Includes this month's Albanian Word (çaj mali) as well as some of our favourite memories of drinking it, and its alleged health benefits - from flu recovery to hormonal balance. Elizabeth gets excited about her statistic on the cont...
Oct 11, 2020
15 min