July 31, 2020
Support us on Patreon:   Guy 1)When is the right time to pull the trigger?  I'm currently using an old Grizzly 6" jointer that works fine but limits me in terms of both width and length of stock.  What measurements or guidelines do you all use to determine when it's time to upgrade your shop equipment? Joel      2) Right now I've really been trying to take time to learn and be comfortable with the foundational skills; practicing cuts and joinery. Do you have any tips on how to make more accurate angled cuts? For example, I started just making and octagon shaped frame this weekend. Getting all angles and lengths to perfectly match took way too many attempts 🤦‍♂️. Is this something you prefer a miter saw or table saw for? Any tools or accessories you suggest using that can be used to double check your saw blades are at the proper angle? Etc. Right now I have a cheap miter saw and a dewalt jobsite table saw. I know the tools aren't the best, but I'm sure there are some things I could start doing and making into habits to get better as I start into this new hobby!   Thanks Brandon Sean 1) Hey guys, could you recommend a mobile (2 stage) dust collection system for a hobbyist woodworker? I’m not looking to wall mount as I’m both, in a small space, and not in my “forever” shop. Perhaps DIY (where to start?) or from any brands is suitable. I don’t really know where to begin. Currently run a jobsite table saw, and looking to add a jointer and planer soon. 4” intake is preferred. Thanks! RJ   2) Questions for the podcast: is the Festool Domino worth it? Context: building a bar and stools out of 8/4 ash and need something to quickly join the legs of the stools together, as well as the bar and legs. I originally thought dowels or router out for loose mortise and tenon, but time is money, literally, as this is a project for a client. Should I spend the $1000+ for the domino, and save time, which allows me to get other client projects done (could use the domino on some of those projects too) or, save the $1000k, do it with dowels or a router and then spend the $1000+ on a delta tablesaw and a dewalt 735x planer? Planer would need to be on sale for the numbers to line up (bad at math!). I currently have a 1/2 hp craftsman table saw with upgraded fence. Thoughts? Thanks! Love the podcast! Thelibertycraftsman   Huy 1)Thanks for the time you invest in the podcast. I have been woodworking a long time but I am still learning. I do not make furniture but I still pick up lots of tips from you three. I am new to the bandsaw. I have a Laguna 14 Twelve. I mainly resaw logs for bowl blanks, since I do a lot of turning. I have been using a Laguna Proforce 3/4" 3 tpi. The blade broke though it is only a couple months old and I have only milled about 3 dozen blanks. What are the causes for such a blade to break? I would appreciate any insight, so as to avoid breaking the new blade. Thanks. -Mark   2)The talk about bringing all sorts of lumber into your shop, like from a pile outdoors under a tin cover, has me wondering about contamination. Basically, were talking about a biodegradable material here, which starts growing microbial life on, in, and off it as soon as the tree dies. So is there ever any danger of bringing wood into your storage which infects your entire stock? Relatedly, should we never machine any rotting material because that would make the fungus etc airborne and infect the whole shop? -Warren
July 17, 2020
Support us on Patreon:   Sean 1) What method do you guys use for waterfall joints (besides domino) and are biscuits and glue strong enough? Nick 2) I picked up 4 slabs of white oak that measure about 10 ft by 15” wide and 2 1/4” thick. I set up a router sled leveled everything on saw horses and as it turns out a couple of the slabs have a twist of about an 1”. Or a bow of about an 1” at either end. I wanted to keep the slabs as thick as possible and I don’t think a 1” top would look right.  I ripped one down to about 12” to try to reduce the twist and route off a small amount but it still has a fair amount of twist and would require a lot of material to be removed.  How would you handle these slabs? Flatten one side with the router sled and leave the bottom slightly out to keep the thickness. Rip them down to smaller widths that I could handle on my 6” jointer, in hopes to keep the thickness at 1.5”. BTW this will be a PITA but could be done with roller stands/roller conveyers. Screw it and  leave the twist/bow smooth out what I can with a power planer and go with it. I don’t have access to a large shop with a belt sander. Thanks Jesse   Guy 1) Hi guys! Been listening since the beginning and love the show, but I’m still a beginner and recently got a bandsaw (Rikon 10-326, brand new 3/4” Timberwolf resaw blade) which I’m trying to use for resawing. A friend gave me a bunch of purpleheart to resaw for him, and ... it didn’t go well. So my questions:   Do you prefer to resaw using a “point fence” or just the bandsaw’s normal fence?  The normal fence gave me an awful lot of drift with the purpleheart. Is it better to keep the piece you’re resawing off (the piece with the thickness you want)  next to the fence or on the side of the blade without the fence? The former seems preferable for repeatable cuts, but it seems like you quickly lose a reference surface on the third cut? Is it possible that I had so much trouble because I was resawing a hard wood like purpleheart and dulled my blade really quickly? Or is resawing a lot more fussy than you all make it look on YouTube? :)   Thank you, and for what it’s worth, I’ve followed the Snodgrass advice on setting up the guides and I’m pretty sure I got that right. - Adam 2) Guy, as I've improved as a woodworker, I'm getting more requests for building custom furniture, or recreating a design someone has seen online. This means I need to get serious about cost. You guys have discussed cost of various projects in a previous episode, which was helpful, but still vague enough to leave me scratching my head at times. I recognize that you don't want to tell the podcast how much you might make on a project—I get it. So, I'm going to list a project here (not one I'm currently making), hoping to hear you think through materials, time, etc. As a professional, what would you charge for this piece? What should an amateur charge for this piece?: -  Project: Round breakfast table -  Wood: solid cherry -  Size: 42" diameter, 1" thickness -  Base: something like what Andy Rawls made here, just not as beefy: -  Joinery for the base would utilize the Festool Domino -  I live in SE Texas, and rough cherry is around $5 bd. Ft. Josh Huy 1) Hey guys...I am making a Morris chair out of cherry. Being a novice woodworker, this is my first substantial project. I'm having problems with snipe with my delta 22-555  13" planer. I keep adjusting the infeed and outfeed tables , but still getting the darn snipe. Any suggestions? Also, how much thicker should pieces of wood be, to obtain a desired thickness?   Also, the arms of the chair are a gentle bent lamination. I built a bending form and  wondering if you can go through the process, from resawing (what thickness), to assembly, clamping, what glue you use, etc. Final thickness of the arm is inch and an eighth thick. Keep up the good work. Dale from Muskego, Wi.
July 3, 2020
Support us on Patreon: Guy 1) I've recently upgraded/downgraded from a Delta 3 phase 5hp unisaw right tilt (mucho power, not much safety) to a Sawstop 3hp left tilt (less power- more safety ). Is there any difference in approaching cuts for the left vs. right tilt? My crosscut sled has to be remade, I have to rework the mitre bar on my Delta (Buick sized) tenoning jig, etc. In the past, I've used the mitre bar on the left side for crosscutting -so the blade tilts away from the support fence. Do I start using it on the right side of the blade so it tilts away from the support fence? Eric 2) Since I'm planning to soon purchase some of these tools I would like your thoughts/recommendations for purchasing all Incra, all Woodpecker or a mix of both.  I would also like to know which five or six measuring devices you would recommend if it were for your own shop as I'm not exactly sure what I need.  I realize this may not be a fair ask given that Incra and/or Woodpecker are sponsors for some or all of you. Jack   Sean 1) I am gluing up 3 boards, each board being 1” thick x 8’long x 6” wide. I do not have a flat surface that big to do a glue up on. Do you have any recommendations on how to ensure a flat glue up? Nick 2) What’s the most useless thing you’ve bought for your shop? I’m not even going to try to explain this one. You know you bought something that you haven’t touched since you bought it. Guy.... you’re old... you know you have things you’ve bought for that one job and didn’t even use it then. What is it?  Brent Jarvis   Huy 1) For everyone: It seems that all three of you work in your garage. What are your best storage saving tips? Josh 2) Hi guys. I really appreciate everything you guys have put out. I’m a beginner to wood working. Been doing this about 4 years. I have a to. Of questions that I’d love to get your perspective on. I have a shop space that is 24 x 30. When I first started woods working I was out of a garage 1/4 of the size on was very intrigued by the Shopsmith. What are your thoughts on a 5 or 7 in one machine? I really enjoy the option for a lathe. And a quick flip to a drill press. - Kyle
June 19, 2020
Support us on Patreon: Guy 1) Hey guys. Question on horsepower for table saws. I’m slowly moving toward upgrading my table saw (I won’t mention the brand so Guy won’t have a reason to make fun of me but let’s just say I’m looking forward to not dying). I currently have a 1.5 hp older delta contractor saw. My question to you is what hp are your saws and if there is a major difference between 1.5 and 3 hp? I don’t work with a ton of 8/4 or bigger stock so I wouldn’t be putting thick stuff through. Thanks for any insight! Ben 2) First off just wanted to say I love the show! You are all talented and experienced woodworkers but all offer different viewpoints on how you like to get things done. My question is about table saw upgrades. I’ve had  a Ridgid R4512 table saw for about 2 years now. I enjoy it but I’m wondering about upgrades. I’m specifically thinking about dust collection and the fence. I know I want to get a zero clearance fence but also wondering about over arm dust collection? Would it be worth it for this saw? Any aftermarket over arm set ups you guys would recommend or have experience with? The other upgrade I’ve considered is a fence. I’ve found that at times I feel the fence on this saw might be a little inaccurate and it doesn’t have a lot of adjustments. Do you feel any of the aftermarket fence systems would be good for this saw? Any recommendations?  Or would you recommend possibly saving money to just get a better saw in the future if you felt like the upgrades weren’t worth making to this saw. Thanks for the time. Again, love the show. Brian Bingham Sean 1) I've seen a few people online build jointer sleds to edge joint and flatten boards. Can I actually get decent results out of a jointer sled in most cases? I assume using a jointer sled for processing a large amount of lumber would be a hassle compared to using a floor standing jointer, but what are the other limitations to using a jointer sled that I am not considering?  Brock 2)  Still loving the show. I wrote in once before and you sold me on shellac finish for small boxes, and you made me a believer. I do have a new question, I'm building a dresser for my daughter and I'm not sure how to finish the job. The main carcass and drawers are mostly plywood with oak edge banding. I made the base out of oak and the drawer fronts will also be oak which I plan to stain to let the grain show through. Do you guys normally finish the inside of the drawers in a dresser? If so, what do you use? Also, I was going to paint the carcass(it's plywood, don't freak out), so I'm wondering if you have any tips on how to get that perfect painted finish on the carcass? I don't have a sprayer, and the budget is tight, so I won't be buying a fuji anytime soon, but any other tips are much appreciated! Thanks, Scott   Huy 1) Love the podcast.  Thanks for everything that you put into it.  I recently resawed some 5/4 walnut, about 32" long, for some drawer faces (shop furniture).  My plan was to resaw this and then glue up a panel to have continuous grain down the three drawers.  The walnut had been in my shop for a few months and I got it from a reliable source, so I was pretty comfortable with the moisture, although I don't have a moisture meter.  I had milled a face and an edge square, but as I was resawing it, the two pieces bowed significantly, to the point that they would require another round of milling, and getting 3/8" to 1/2" final thickness was not possible.  Did I do something wrong, or is that to be expected when resawing something to that thickness? Chad 2) I am using a 3/8" diameter upcut spiral bit with a 1/2" diameter shank from Whiteside to make 1 1/8" deep mortises in some cherry. Whiteside says the bit is good for 1 1/4" deep. I am using the bit in the Porter Cable 690LR fixed base router. My questions: How deep a cut is recommended per pass? Is there any criteria out there for depth of cut? Dave
June 5, 2020
Support us on Patreon: Guy 1) Hey guys,  I have been wanting to switch over to water based spray finishes for awhile, since for the foreseeable future my shop will remain connected to the house. I either use a conversion varnish or danish oil then wax. Doing oil and wax is a great look but too time consuming for any real deadline. That leads to conversion varnish but that requires a nice day outside or for the wife and kids to leave the house for a little while (museum, zoo, park, etc) Neither is practical and plus I want to go to the zoo too.   The argument against water based varnishes is the clear/milky look instead of a rich deep glow. But couldn't you just spray an amber shellac coat first, sealing and giving the beautiful color that solvents give? Then finish with a quality water based coat, thinking Target Coatings EMTECH line. Side note, I have used rubio and while I don't mind it on occasion (I know guy is not a fan), I hate having to mix and the lack of options for sheen. Thanks team! - Patrick 2) I have heard you all talk about how much you love and use for MFT tables and top and I love mine for those sweet, square, 27" crosscuts. What I haven't figured out yet is how to utilize it for much of anything else.  I think one of you mentioned it as an assembly table, but it would be awesome to hear more ideas on how you utilize it your shops. Thanks! Jeremy   Sean 1) Help me settle a bet with my wife. She thinks I'm quote unquote "injury prone" in the woodshop. I always have Band-Aids on my hands and arms. She jokes that I am 30% bandaid at all times.  I wouldn't consider myself injury prone, other than that one chisel incident last summer (chisel into index knuckle, 10 stitches, yada yada yada). My question is, on a normal day, how many minor injuries do you receive? Cuts, scrapes, splinters, scratches, anything that requires a bandaid. What do you consider the normal course of a day on this kind of thing? I need to explain to her that this kind of thing is just the cost of doing business. Thanks again! - Eric 2) Hey Guys, Isaac from Teton Woodshop. I have a question about drum sanders. I recently bought a drum sander because I don't like sanding (shocker) and I thought it would cut down on sanding time for panels. However I found it left deep scratches in the wood that took quite awhile to sand out with the random orbital sander. I am finding much easier to just make sure my boards are flat, line up the glue joints with dominos and sand with a random orbital sander without using the drum sander. This process seems much faster for me. Am I missing something in my use of the drum sander? I hear it is a luxury to have in the shop but I find it being more of a nuisance than a luxury at this point. I'd love to hear about how you guys use it to see why you consider it a luxury and I consider it a large space taker in the shop.   Huy 1) Hey Gents, wanted to say you have an awesome show going. Wanted to know if you've ever held off on making something because you don't have a specific tool or upgraded tool? For instance I currently have a Dewalt jobsite table saw so not the most reliable or accurate saw and am saving up for a cabinet saw and think I'll be more comfortable making things then. Thanks again. - Paul 2) I bought a cordless Dewalt track saw. I picked it because of the two way track and you don’t have to spin the tracks around as much when breaking down plywood. It was my first track saw. Now, I’m realizing that I can’t use the after market accessories available to Festool tracksaw owners like the parallel guides and the 90 degree guide.  Do you think these accessories are worth selling my Dewalt and getting the Festool?  I would like to move to final cuts with the track saw as mentioned by Guy in the last episode. - Brian
May 22, 2020
Support us on Patreon:   Guy's questions 1) Easy question for you today! What’s the number one math you hate to do in the shop? For me it’s calculating measurements on the router. For instance let’s say I’m making a template to use a guide bushing on. For some reason getting that perfect measurement from center to the edge makes me cringe. Another in this aspect is measuring from the base of the router to the center of the bit, or even the blade of the bit for a groove or dado. Just always seems to make me want to call it quits and grab a beer. Guy, you’re almost as cool as your Lamello. Huy, your work is almost as intense as your social media posts. Sean, your just about as fancy as your finished pieces! As always, Thank you for your time and please keep up the absolutely wonderful work y’all are doing on the podcast and your shops! Thanks, Brent Jarvis Clean Cut Woodworking 2) Sawstop has a sliding table option. As you can tell, I love sliding tables! However, is it worth the big $$$ for this option if I could just get the Incra sliding miter 5000? It takes less room, but what do I lose by going this way? -Tony  Sean's questions 1) I’m starting to make more and more cabinet type projects. Do you have any cabinet building books you recommend? I want to make sure I am doing things correctly. -Hunter 2) Gents, thank you for the awesome format of this podcast. Love it. I started thinking to get a scroll saw and then realized a CNC can do what I'm looking for as well provided I'm willing to chop the rounded corners left by the cnc bit square. It seems the CNC is more versatile so if I'm going to invest in a new skill, it might be the way to go. In your opinions, if price is not a factor can a CNC fill the void a scroll saw fills or do I need to learn to use both? Thanks!-Matt   Huy's questions 1) My question is regarding miter stations: Do I really need one? The last couple of years I’ve been using a cordless jigsaw to break down rough stock and precision crosscuts I’ve used my incra 5000. When building tabletops, I square up with my tracksaw so no need there...Do you guys find them integral to your processes?   I should add I intend to begin focusing on building rocking chairs. Not having built a rocker before, I’d like to know if the miter saw becomes more or less important in that specific application? Thanks, Ray 2) Howdy Guys - Love the podcast, best on the web!I've taken on a garage cabinetry project for a friend. They're wanting the melamine floor to ceiling type and would like your opinions on melamine table saw blades.I see there are two types, the "Triple Chip" and the "Steep Bevel" teeth. Is one better than the other? And is one more useful for other tasks also, like veneered panels/ply. Will probably go with either Infinity or Forest unless you have other suggestions.I'll be using two-sided melamine, don't have a tracksaw, so will be breaking then down with a circular saw and then to final dimensions on cabinet saw (Powermatic 66).Thanks for all the insights you all share and for keeping it entertaining!-Eric
May 8, 2020
Support us on Patreon: Guy: 1) Always enjoy listening to your podcast while working in my shop. I recently saw Huy using a router set to cut cope and stick joints for some cabinet doors.  I have a similar set by Freud that I have used to cut many similar joints over the past several years.  My set has not been cutting very well the last few times I used it so I took it to have it professionally sharpened. It's no better now than before, maybe worse. Should I try having them sharpened again, or is this just the nature of the beast? Keep up the good work on the podcast. -John 2) Sharpening vs replacing.  I’m still running straight knives on my planer and jointer and always wondered what makes more sense between the two.  The local Rockler and Woodcraft stores offer send away sharpening for these and all other blades and bits.  It’s about $20-25 for a set of blades to get sharpened, but they’re about the same to just replace them.  I could be just getting the “cheaper” blades as they’re not carbide tipped or anything special.  What are your thoughts?  I know table saw/miter saw blades are different and seem to last longer.  What were your methods before going to helical everything? Joey     Sean: 1) New to woodworking, love the podcast, learned a ton from you guys so far! My question is about determining moisture in wood when purchasing. I’ve heard you guys talk a lot about needing to sticker wood and let dry before beginning a project, but how does a person know when choosing pieces from their local dealer, what the moisture level is? Does everyone just take a moisture meter with them when selecting boards? Or is there some other way to know which pieces will allow me to start on a project sooner than later? If I want to build a table for example, I don’t want to have to wait two years for my lumber to dry before starting the project. Again, I’m new to woodworking, so apologies if this seems elementary. -Tony 2) Just watched an episode of Woodsmith Shop on my local PBS channel.  They were making a white oak gentleman's dresser, and used a "gel varnish" for the finish. I have never heard of this before, and I was wondering if any of you guys have used it before? They did not identify the make or model of the product, but Old Masters is one of their sponsors, so I suspect it may have come from them.   Huy: 1) Enjoy your program very much. How did three intelligent talented young men (yes Guy your are younger then I) living so far apart geographly ever become close friends? My question is I would like to add a good jointer to my modest woodworking shop ( but due to space constraints a floor model would not fit at this time and a 6 inch model may not always be wide enough. Have been looking online at the Model 40180HC-CT (with carbide tips) jointer from Any thoughts on this or suggestions on a different jointer. I am retired from a carrier in massage therapy now living on Uncle Sams monthly donations and enjoying my hobby. Thank you and have the best day ever. James 2) First, I own a large 27”x43” Incra router table. It takes up a lot of space. Is it worth getting rid of the table and getting the built in router table option on a Sawstop? I realize I probably will lose the Incra fence, but I could get back significant room.  Tony from Atlanta
April 24, 2020
Support us on Patreon:   Guy 1) I have a couple of Bessey F-Style clamps and some wooden ones made by Klemsia here in Germany ( What to get next? Are parallel clamps like Bessey's REVO really worth the extra price? Lots of people in the US seem to use pipe clamps - what's so good about them? Are there any specialty clamps that should go into my basic kit like wooden handscrews or one handed clamps? Jarmo 2) I have seen lots of articles on making and using shooting boards but I don’t understand very well the theory behind shooting miters. How does the process work? I mean, if I make a mitered frame, and the miters aren’t perfect, what is the order or operations or the process for shooting the perfectly while maintaining the perfect length of opposing sides? As I think about it, it seems like trueing a miter also shortens the piece with will introduce a new problem and I’ll end up chasing perfection forever. Can you help me understand this? Thank you so much! I love your show and I seriously appreciate all the effort that goes into it. All of you make my hobby even more enjoyable! - Mart   Sean 1) Hello guys, I am in the process of building my first real workbench and was wondering how you like the benches you have. I've seen your benches on YouTube-my questions are, how did you decide on your design/type of bench and vise styles? Is there any things you would do next time? The stuff I'm interested in is usually furniture, using mostly power tools but want to use hand tools more often. Any other discussion on the topic would be appreciated. Thanks and keep up the good work on the podcast- don't ever change your format- it's what makes this podcast stick out from the crowd! - Travis 2) I have a couple of questions about my DeWalt DW735 planer. Lately I’ve been having trouble with the planer not pulling the wood through. I’ve tried waxing the wings and bed and cleaning the rollers with mineral spirits. These help for a bit, but eventually it stops pulling the wood through again. Any ideas on what might be causing this? Brian   Huy 1) Question: I’m a diy’re and have accumulated my tools over the years. I have a Ridgid Planer and a Ridgid 6” jointer and a Delta Bandsaw 14”. They all run fine. My question is - would it be worth the money To upgrade the Ridgid machines with the helix cutters and the Bandsaw with a Carter bandsaw guides. If I did them all it would be around $1000.00. - Dave 2) How do you know when a piece of sandpaper is worn out or no longer the grit it says it is? I use high quality klingspor sanding discs that last a long time but not sure how to tell when they are no longer effective. Is there a board footage or rule of thumb you guys can talk about? - Stockbilt
April 10, 2020
Support us on Patreon:   Guys Questions: 1) Really enjoying your podcasts. I am new to podcasts, and it’s a new avenue of learning for me. I have shied away from instructions, not on purpose, just too busy doing it, I guess. I have had the same sears 12” RAS since 1970, 4th motor. I make boxes and toys in my small under the garage shop, where the RAS is my main tool. On one side of my shop I have the RAS on the rear of a 3.5’ x 7.5’ table. In the middle of my shop , I have a rolling table of the same height. I can process 4x8 sheets with this set up. Pictures at All of my projects are small to large. Business card boxes to rifle cases.   I am interested in your views of RAS vs table saws.   Thanks, Glenn Nief 2)  I just built a table for myself, 8x4 red oak.  I used titebond 3 and once again, I have glue creep.  In one spot, it actually pushed the polyurethane finish up and caused the finish to chip.  So incredibly annoying! Background on the milling, I have a helical head grizzly jointer that I joined the all boards with.  The seams were essentially perfect with zero gap whatsoever. I'm starting to think that it's the titebond 3, but I'm looking for your advice.  Thank you. Logan.   Sean's Questions: 1) Hey guys! This is Josh Uy from the Philippines. Love the show and podcast, I appreciate the way you three tackle questions from different perspectives.  My question is on wood movement: if you finish wood with a film finish, say polyurethane, does that mean that there is less of a chance that moisture from the environment could enter the piece and cause the wood to expand? Here in the Philippines we don't have a big swing in temperature/humidity throughout the year so we don't need to worry as much but I'm just curious. Thanks again! Joshua 2) Hey guys, question about stickering. How important is stickering through the later stages of a build process? I know it’s important as you’re killing material but should I be doing it while cutting joinery? I see some folks sticker even the smallest pieces of a build which doesn’t seem to make much sense. I guess I’m asking if and when you can just stack boards without concern with uneven evaporation. Thanks! Ben   Huy's Questions: 1) In episode 24, you talked about not using the dominoes fence for alignment but instead using your flat work surface. This makes sense to me, except for when you’re joining two pieces that aren’t the same thickness. How would you address that? Chad 2) Hi Sean, Huy, and Guy. As always, I love the show. Answering a bunch of questions while keeping it light and fun makes for a perfect woodworking Podcast. Though I disagree with the other listener who described Guy as “beautiful”. He’s more ruggedly handsome like Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson or Christian Becksvoort. Question: what sort of warranty do you offer a client when you build a custom piece? What do you think are reasonable customer issues and where would you draw the line? Should custom furniture always be final sale? This can be a delicate subject so I’d love to hear your different takes on it. Thanks! Kevin at Quill Woodworks.
March 27, 2020
Support us on Patreon: Guy's Questions 1: I am making a table top that is 7feet long and I needed to joint the edge of the boards. I have a 6 inch jointer and the total bed length is 46 inches long. After jointing the edge of the boards and placing them next to each other I noticed that some of the jointed edges were concave over the 7 feet and the concave was much too large for a spring joint. To solve for this problem I put the boards together (face to face) then using my #6 flattens the sides. Although this worked, I would have preferred that the joints were not concave off of the jointer. Do you think the concave boards was caused by my technique or is my jointer just too small. If it’s the jointer, what size jointer would have eliminated this problem. I know an aircraft carrier would take care of the problem, but given I am a hobbies and have a budget what would you recommend? Mike 2:I would like to hear your thoughts on sliding table saws vs traditional cabinet saws and if any of you have experience with one. Most online posts (in the US) consider these saws as industrial and/or for production shops working with sheet goods only and not for making furniture.  I have been comparing the PM2000B and the Hammer K3 Winner. I'm aware there is a huge price difference between the two saws $3400 vs $5800 and that a slider needs more floor space to accommodate the outrigger. Neither of them is a Saw Stop so I will probably die shortly after cutting my first board #YOLO In short, if you had the money and space would this be a saw you would consider? Oscar   Sean's Questions 1: Hey guys! I have a question regarding dust collection. Ever since I started getting serious about it, it feels like a never ending spiral for the quest of a "dust-free" shop. Is such a thing possible? Where is the line that you mark as "good enough"? Do you have a daily clean up routine that helps with this? My shop is an attached two car garage, and my wife would love for me to stop dragging sawdust into the house! Thanks guys, love the show and keep up the great content! Antoine 2: I have been practicing with shellac on shop furniture. I have been using premixed off the shelf stuff. I am not getting a smooth finish. I have used both a cloth and a foam brush.  I am thinking that it is the wrong viscosity and I would be better off mixing my own. Can you talk about how you mix shellac? Rick   Huy's Questions 1: I have a 3hp 15" planer. The question is when should I be concerned about changing the gearbox oil and other deep maintenance (besides waxing and blade changes)? I just purchased a Grizzly knockoff that was manufactured in 2003 and never plugged in. I've ran about a hundred board feet through it so far. Besides some rust, it runs perfectly. I think it needs new belts, but wondered if I should go deeper with the maintenance? Thanks, Dave with Matter of Fractions 2: How much glue should you use on glue ups? I typically put too much I think and have a lot of squeeze out. I worry about a strong joint though. What amount is strong enough? A light film of glue, a little puddling, or flooded? Thanks Matt
March 13, 2020
Support us on Patreon: Guys Questions: 1: Hey guys, this podcast has quickly become my favorite - appreciate the time put in.Can you speak a bit on wide belt sanders (with a platen head) versus drum sanders? How important are they versus convenient?I currently own the Powermatic 5HP Open End Belt Sander. I like it a lot, but often run into issues dialing it in and recently have discovered the feed table is not totally coplaner with the platen. Was thinking about selling and either (a) buying a different machine or (b) exchanging if a widebelt is that advantageous - maybe I just got a bad machine. -Ray 2: I am researching efficient methods for breaking down sheets of plywood for shop cabinets, and I am trying to avoid splintering the outer layer and achieving square cuts. I do not own a tracksaw but do own a tablesaw, miter saw, and circular saw with combination blades. What do you guys recommend for most effective methods at a decent cost point? What style of saw blade, TPI, and brand of blade do you recommend? Or do I run out and get a tracksaw or keep it as simple as blue painters tape to hold the layer? And what variables should I think about regarding the plywood selection itself? Thank you much for the input! Keep up the great podcast. James   Sean's Questions 1:I am designing a small cabinet with frame and panel doors. I want there to be a small chamfer (less than 1/8") on the inside edge of the frame. How do I cut it? On the rail I can just use my block plane or run it along a chamfer bit on the router table but on the stile? The chamfer would have to stop exactly where it meets the rail. Do I cut it partially with the router and finish it off with a chisel after assembly? Or should I cut it after assembly with a bearing guided chamfer bit? That would still leave the inside corners unfinished, though..Any input would be appreciated. Keep up the great work!Jarmo from Germany 2:Hey guys, great podcast. I have a question about how to determine what wood thickness to use for a project. I’m making a console table out of soft maple. I was planning for the shelves to be 1-inch after milling, but couldn’t find any 5/4 or 6/4 maple boards, so I ended up getting some nice 8/4 boards. If I mill these 8/4 boards down to 1-inch thick though, it seems like a waste of wood (I don’t have a bandsaw so can’t re-saw them into thinner boards). So I was thinking maybe I’d make the shelves 1.5 inches thick, but that would make the table a lot heavier. What are the pros and cons to using thicker versus thinner woods (thinking about weight, wasted wood, joinery, etc)? For reference, I’m going to use tongue and groove joinery to joint the boards and dados to attach the shelves to the legs.Thanks and keep up the good work! -Billy   Huy's Questions: 1: Hey Guys! Great job with the podcast, learning so much! Wanted to get Huy’s feedback on the new table saw blade he got, the woodworker 2 clone. Keep crushing it! 2: Here’s my question, I woodwork out of my two car garage and I’m looking to get more serious and take my woodworking to the next level, but living in mid-Michigan, I run into high humidity and temps in the summer that make working in the garage unbearable. The garage has no windows but does share a wall with the house and my master bedroom is over the garage. I’ve considered installing a dehumidifier and swapping out the two basic lights in the garage for ceiling fans. What are your thoughts on this solution? How do you guys keep your shop comfortable when your working in the hot summer? Thanks in advance for the help. -Jason
February 28, 2020
Support us on Patreon: Guys: 1) What do you guys use for air filtration and what are the aspects you considered when picking the system you use? Can a box fan with an air filter be a reasonable option? 2) I want to make a white oak chess table but have never done veneer work before. At first I thought I could make it out of solid wood but I now realise that won’t be possible due to wood movement.  I don’t own a re-saw capacity bandsaw, a vacuum press or drum sander so not sure where to start. I assume store bought veneer. No idea where to go from there.  Thanks so much. Love the podcast! -Tanc   Sean's: 1)Wanted to see about how y’all manage your machines maintenance wise. Do you have a schedule for doing certain maintenance or just do it as needed? This includes things like rigging them, cleaning them, and lubing the moving parts. Second part is what type of dry lubricant would you recommend for the moving parts like the table saw lift and tilt mechanism?  Thanks, Brent Jarvis Clean Cut Woodworking 2) Hey Guys, love the podcast. My question is about completing smaller projects versus bigger, more time consuming projects. As I've progressed in this hobby I am enjoying the nicer longer more involved projects but was curious how you balance this in your own shop. -Brad   Huy's: 1)I plan to redo my kitchen cabinets and make shop cabinets so the shaper will be useful but I find it’s not as user friendly as a router table seems to be. Which do you prefer assuming you can only have 1 in the shop. -Ryan 2) Hi guys. I love the podcast. I strangely found out about you all through Dan Harmon’s (creator of Rick and Morty) instagram. He’s recently started woodworking and was listening to you all in one of his stories. Getting back to my question. I want to start veneering a bit more and need a vacuum bag system. What should I get? I have no set budget for this. I just want something that works. Thanks for the advise! Jonathan Stier Links mentioned during podcast: Jay Bates Air Cleaner Cart:
February 14, 2020
Support us on Patreon: Guys Questions: 1) First thanks for the great podcast y’all have put together I really enjoy listening. I am looking for a new bandsaw for the shop. I had a 18” Jet bandsaw that I really liked but it was just to big for my shop. I am looking for a 14” bandsaw to replace the old one. I have looked at the Jet JWBS14-SFX and the Laguna 14/12 and the Laguna 14BX 2.5 HP models. There is not a huge price difference in them but I have also noticed that Harvey Woodworking has a bandsaw that looks very similar to the Laguna 14BX but I have not seen or heard of them before. I believe the Jet has ball bearing guides and the Laguna has ceramic. Do any of you have an opinion on these saws. My local Woodcraft has both Laguna machines and the Jet in store but I am torn between them. Any help would be much appreciated. Keep up the good work guys! - Troy 2) Hey all, love the show - Guy is looking handsome as ever -    I’ve been watching a lot of old New Yankee workshop and noticed that Norm reinforces like EVERYTHING with brad nails - I’m especially talking about show faces on projects like the shaker wall clock he built - he shot like 10 brads into face grain on the sides of the clock where everyone will see -    I’m sure he is hiding them in the finishing process with a filler, but I’m wondering if a brad is really necessary on non load bearing joints / projects - We have all seen the tightbond ads showing that the glue joint is actually stronger than the wood itself - Do I really need to brad / pin nail in a divider piece on a wall clock? Or trim molding that is glued otherwise?? SB Seans Questions: 1) How do you decide what the next Purchase in the shop will be with a given budget? I have 1500-2k I can spend so I’m debating between many different things 2) Hey guys I have just got into listening to the podcast and have really enjoyed it. I was wondering how do y’all go about selling the projects that you make and where to advertise the pieces so that they get sold. Also what are some good ways to get your name out to the community to let them know about you and the skills that you have.Thanks, Logan Huys Questions: 1) My question concerns instagram/maker etiquette. I am a novice in woodworking/cabinetry, and I am always curious what other maker costs are in some of their projects. I guess my question is, is it ok to ask other makers how much they have in a project and what their net profits are on the project?? I’d like to know how I’m doing when it comes to margins. -Cole 2) The WWGOA has made a pretty big push lately regarding the Harvey "Ambassador" Cabinet Table Saw. Would you share your thoughts on the C200 & C300 models? I have been saw shopping for some time, reviewing all available "cabinet style" brands, and recently put this saw into the mix of choices.
January 31, 2020
Support us on Patreon: Guys  1) Hi guys. I have a question for the podcast. I recently made a miter station out of some 3/4 birch plywood. Originally thought I wasn't going to apply any finish but have decided I would like to mostly for protection of the work surfaces and also for aesthetics. Would it be a bad idea to apply a water based poly to only the visible table top and drawer fronts and skip the inside of the cabinet? On a normal furniture project I know it would be best to finish all surfaces, but wondering if this would be passable for shop furniture. Thanks! John 2) Hi guys, your podcast is brilliant, thank you all. I am a hobbyist woodworker only, I started after I found out about French cleats when searching shed storage projects. In an earlier podcast Guy talks about the benefits of buying a piece of equipment against fussing about making it when time can be spent better using the tool rather than making it, in my case a crosscut sled which took me a fair bit of time and after finally giving up on the 5 cut method and fixing the fence with a framing square only to find the sled binds so I cut it in half and now have a right and left handed sled, I really would like to buy the Incra mitre gauge and watch many operations where it is used straight on the table saw without a sled, so my question is 'is a crosscut sled necessary or beneficial " Thanks for your time -Geoff Sean's  1) Hey fellas. I don’t currently have any milling tools. I’ve seen bench top jointers in my research but don’t really hear about or see them in the YouTube or Instagram community. Those are the jointer currently in my budget, am I better off saving up for a big boy jointer or would this get me rolling albeit with smaller projects? Appreciate any and all advice. -Trevor 2) So question for the podcast; what do you think about verical/horizontal lumber storage like this (Shows picture of hotizontal lumber rack with boards laying on their edges/sides instead of laying face down)? I can’t store a lot of lumber vertical as my ceilings aren't that tall and all my cutoffs are not that long so this was a hybrid solution I thought up but it sounds like a few others have had the same thought. Food for thought? Huy's 1) Hello everyone, really enjoy the podcast and learn new things every show!  I have a question on how to deal with harmful fumes from finishes, etc. My workshop is in my basement in a completely walled off room from the rest of the basement without any windows....When I have to finish a project I have to move it up into the garage but then I have to deal with dust and other factors that I can't control since it is a garage.  I can control the environment in my shop but being a tad close to the furnace and or other open flame devices.....I really don't want to blow up the house. I don't mind drilling through the wall but I really can't exceed 4" diameter through the wall to vent to the outside. So do you have any ideas of what kind of fume extraction device exists for this purpose?   Thanks! Kalman 2) Calculating expansion. Is there an actual formula or do I just keep on making an educated guess based on my feelings for what a particular piece of wood might do. A good example to ponder. I recently built a 12 foot tall, solid wood paneled, sliding barn door for a Master Bedroom out of Alder. Each board is 6 inches tall by 30 inches wide and .5 inch thick. The boards are in a dado on both the rail and stile in the door frame. That is 144 inches of horizontal grain that will do what ever it is going to do. How would you calculate or estimate the vertical expansion? - Alex Links mentioned in the podcast from Huy in regards to calculating wood movement:
January 17, 2020
Support us on Patreon: Guys Questions: 1) Hey guys and Guy, back with another question for you. I foolishly agreed to make the new dining table for my fire department. We Firefighters are basically 240 pound toddlers, so this thing needs to be essentially bomb proof. My main concern for this piece is finishing. I have listened to a lot of podcasts and done some reading but most of the discussion on finishing is in regards to the nicest finish. Not how to gorilla proof a finish. I’ve had people suggest epoxy, but I don’t really want to do an epoxy pour, especially with the stigma surrounding epoxy right now. My go to finish is the minwax oil based poly. And I’m wondering should I just go that rout and add extra layers? I’ve even considered using a poly for hardwood floors. What do ya’ll think? I am probably going to build with 8/4 hickory. Thanks in advance. -Hunter 2) I’m new to veneering, but was curious about the subject of cross grain glue ups with veneer. If one wants to veneer a panel with a Baltic birch plywood core, how would you glue something over 4ft? With plywood grain running the 8ft length, my guess is you would have to put a layer of backing veneer perpendicular to the plywood grain and then lay up the finish veneer on top of that.  I know using MDF would make this easier but I’m not love with it. For reference this would be a cabinet side for a 9ft tall built in with an outside face. -Jesse   Sean's Questions: 1) My one car detached garage is 109 years old and is running off of one single 20A 120V circuit. I have just two outlets in the garage right now and I want to have a subpanel installed with more amperage and ideally a 220V circuit as well. That’s what I’m wondering about. I was thinking a total of 100A with three 20A 110V circuits and one 40A 220V circuit. I’m not an electrician so I don’t even know that that’s possible, but if so, does that power setup sound good. I’m trying to “future-proof” it a bit, thinking about potentially expanding the garage one day,  having a 220V dust collector and maybe a Hammer combo machine like Huy once I get that rocket engineer kinda money but I was also thinking of externally mounting the panel box so I could run external conduit to have flexibility for future outlet layout changes. So yeah, I just want to get an opinion on power availability throughout the shop and what your thoughts are. Jonathan Scott woodcrafts 2) What is the piece that you built and wish to forget about? - Eric   Huy's Questions: 1) I have a 1970s Rockwell floor stand drill press I restored with no appreciable run out as well as a powermatic 180 (18 inch planer) with helical head upgrade.  They are older but seem sturdier that today's machines. Just wondering what machines you might consider looking for older versions that may be better than today's equivalent as I do not see many of the type in your shops. Thanks again, Matthew 2) I have a lot of a variety of types of clamps that is on a simple wall rack now. I need the wall space in my growing ever smaller 2 car garage shop. Considering a clamp cart or possibly under benches? Please discuss options and how you each deal with them being out of the way but handy when needed. -Darren   Thanks to Maverick Abrasives for sponsoring this episode. Check them out at
January 3, 2020
Support us on Patreon:   Guys Questions 1) Can you speak a little in general about expansion and contraction of wood with some basic Do Not vs. Do when it comes to glueing and allowing wood movement?  Thanks in advance, I am learning a ton! April 2) Hey Guys, I’ve got a question for the podcast that I’ve never heard anyone address. Is it worth it to invest in high-dollar drill bits?  As a hobbiest on a tight budget, I generally get new bits at the box store, but sometimes I can look at them while they are spinning, and tell that they are not spinning straight. They seem to do the job, but I always wondered if having better bits (or possibly a better drill, I guess) is worth the money? Thanks, and love the great show format. Sincerely, Scott A. Jackson, TN   Sean's Questions 1) Hello, I would like your opinion what would be the better upgrade option around the 300-400 dollar range. I currently have a 60's era Delta 6" jointer with a 1.5HP motor and am debating on whether I should upgrade to a carbide helical cutter head or should I upgrade my capacity with a used 8" jointer which I can usually find around here for about a hundred more. Thanks for the podcast, it's going great! - Travis 2) Love your podcast. Your show is amazing and I love all three of your social stuff. Guy, your YouTube page is amazingly helpful for me. I'm a hobbiest woodworker who sells pieces based upon commission only. I've been building out my shop via commissioned projects over the past 4 years. I started with all HD Ryobi stationary tools to learn on and now am upgrading to more professional tools. Here's what I have so far: Laguna F2 hybrid table saw, just got it and love it, it took some mods for dust collection but it's awesome. Wen drill press. Craftsman used lathe(got it for $100 from a neighbor) basically brand new. Rigid miter saw station. Porter and cable router on a homemade table. Dust collection system with a shop vac and dust deputy. 10 inch wen band saw. My question is what do I get next? Drum sander? Or planer/jointer combo? My budget is around $1200 and space is an issue. I work in a 1 car garage. I do have everything on wheels except the table saw. Hope I didn't ramble. Keep up the great work. Brad  Huy's Questions 1) What glue do you use for veneering? Are there any circumstances when you would change the glue your using, such as curved panels, color of veneer, or purchased vs shop sawn veneer?Douglas 2) I don’t think I have heard y’all talk about these before so here you go. Woodpecker tools. What do y’all think of them?  Are there better or cheaper tools out there that will work as good? I have a few Woodpecker tools and I really like them and find them very useful but just looking for other options out there. I also have bought a few of their one time tools and have been very pleased with them. Keep up the great work guys! - Troy   Thanks to Maverick Abrasives for sponsoring this episode!
December 20, 2019
Support us on Patreon:   Guys Questions 1) I’m having trouble getting clean 45 degree angles (or any angle other than 90) on my table saw. I use an Incra Miter 1000. It seems like my workpiece shifts ever so slightly as the wood enters the blade and my miter isn’t clean. I don’t have confidence in the miter stop provided with the miter gauge cause it’s just a small round piece of metal. Any tips on cutting angles with this style miter gauge would be awesome. Also, do you recommend using it on the left or right miter slot of a left tilting blade. Much appreciated.  Keep up the good work. -Zach   2) I just got my first Lie-Nielsen plane (#4 bronze body smoother).  I've decided it's time to up my sharpening game and purchase some quality stones to sharpen plane irons and chisels.  I had pretty much decided on Shapton Waterstones when I ran across their glass stones. The glass stones now seem to be the way to go but I'd like to have your guys take on glass vs. water stones before I pull the trigger. Love the show guys!  Thanks and Merry Christmas! - Jeff   Sean's Questions 1) Hello guys, big fan of the podcast, I've listened to all your episodes and look forward to each one. I enjoy the Q&A format. My question is about a workbench I want to build, more specifically the top. I have no formal workbench right now so I'm looking to build my first. I was initially looking to source some butcher block top and use that but last year I acquired a full 4x8 sheet of 1-1/4" MDF leftover from a jobsite. I had to rip it down and cut it down to make it manageable enough to get it in my car so I have 2 5'x2' pieces of 1-1/4" MDF. I was planning on laminating these 2 pieces together to get a 5' X 2' X 2-1/2" thick benchtop. I'm wondering what if any issues I may encounter and any tips for gluing up, attaching a vise, etc. I was going to drill dog holes but I recently saw a video from Dave Piccuito at where he puts in a t-track. I really like how his turned out and was thinking about doing that. So I was just hoping to get some insight into anything I may want to look out for or be aware of. Pros/cons/thoughts. Thanks for everything you do guys, take care. - Michael 2) On a recent episode, you talked about using your CNC's to cut out jigs, etc.  I'm interested in getting a CNC to complement my woodworking, which is a fairly new hobby for me since I retired a couple of years ago.  My only real interest is in using it to make jig parts and router templates for things like furniture legs - not interested in creating final products or 3D sculptures with the CNC, nor doing production for products to sale.  What are your recommendations (size, features, manufacturers) for a setup that would see light duty limited to this application? I've tried some of the online laser-cutting services - but they can get pricey pretty quick and have limited thicknesses, so I'm interested in my own setup.  Price is a big consideration - as I can't see spending 5 grand for such a limited application. Thanks, Scott Huy's Questions 1) I started woodworking last year, and I've only been using jatoba, African mahogany, hickory, and hard maple. Mostly because I got good deals on Craigslist. Based on what I've heard you guys discussing, those might not be the easiest woods to work with. My next project is to make a bed for my 4 year old son. What species would make my life easier? I'm in Denver, so cherry isn't all that cheap. Also, any tips on making beds? -aaron 2) I have a commission for a 6’ round 12/4 (poplar but it doesn’t matter) dining table. I’ll fabricate the steel base, but how would you move such a massive piece around the shop? And any recommendations on the glue up? Guy, how do you move your large pieces at the new shop? Thanks gentlemen! Will Thanks to Maverick Abrasives for sponsoring this episode!
December 6, 2019
Support us on Patreon: Guy 1) I have a makita trim router with a ¼” up cut spiral bit routing a groove in the edge of a board and the collet keeps loosening the bit. I’m only taking ⅛” deep passes. Not sure what the problem is. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Douglas. 2) Love the show. My hobbiest shop is a 24x30 garage and I’m looking to upgrade the dust collection. I initially looked at a big 3HP dust collector and plumbing the whole shop with 4” and 6” ducting. Now I’m looking at getting 2-3  Grizzly G0785 Or Rockler wall mount units and keeping each near 1-2 machines and not running expensive and cumbersome duct work all over my shop. It seems like for about $1200 I could have a pretty effective setup by going this way instead of 1 big dust collector.   Am I missing something?  Do you see any disadvantages of going with multiple smaller units mounted close to my machines? - Ron   Sean 1) Hey guys I’ve got a workbench vise question. I’m in the process of building a new workbench and am ready to mount a front vise.   I have an old record style vise that I was going to use and mount to the apron leaving it proud. However everyone I see now mounts there vise inset using the bench apron as the rear jaws of the vise. Granted these are all quick release Lee Valley style vises.   Would you mount the vise proud or inset the vise? I found some info from Paul Sellers in favor of mounting a vise proud to avoid pinching fingers. But haven’t found any info on people using vises that are flush to the apron of the bench.   Btw this isn’t my end all be all beautiful shaker/rubo bench. It will probably last 5-7 years before I replace it.   Thanks Jesse Beechland Furniture -   2) I am a very green woodworker. I am building a small side/end table. I'll attach the top to the aprons and allow for wood movement. I want to add a shelf at about a third of the length from the top to the floor. I thought about attaching it to the legs. How would you guys do it? Thanks for the great podcast. - Omer   Huy 1) Thank you all for devoting such time to this podcast. I am a new woodworker and I am learning so much in every episode. I am writing with a question about jointing and spring joints. I refurbished an old Atlas 6000 6 inch jointer. It's a beast and I think I did a pretty good job getting everything aligned -- very sharp new blades at the right height. But when I edge-joint longer boards (60" -- the outfeed table of the jointer is only about 26"), I do get a very small, wide arch (crook or frown face) on the jointed edge. When I put two jointed boards edge to edge to make a panel, there is a small (1/32-1/16") gap in the center, but the ends of the board are flush. I lamented this to a fellow woodworker and he told me not to worry -- that it's a best practice to make a "spring joint' by leaving such a gap and closing it up via clamps during a glue-up. So my question is: is my friend right -- should I just go with a spring joint? And if he's not right, how can I calibrate my jointer so I get a straighter edge? - Adam Potthast 2) I'm going to be building a run of side chairs in the near future, and am in the design phase. My question is about the necessity of lower stretchers for durability. I'd like these chairs to last for decades (at least), and my kids/nephews are maniacs. Do lower stretchers on a side chair add measurable strength, or are the mortise/tenon joints for the seat aprons sufficient on their own? I love your podcast. Thanks very much. - Andrew
November 22, 2019
Support us on Patreon:   Guy: 1) Hi Guys, been thinking a lot lately on getting into woodworkering. I follow several instagram and YouTube channels but just wanted to get some input on what i need to get started and what are some really nice projects for a complete beginner to start off with. -acam22 2) Gentleman, thank you for answering my question in Episode 7. Ive got a new question for you. Blade Cleaning versus Blade Sharpening. We all know it’s a good practice the clean blades regularly and personally I go with some warm water and simple green, it’s worked great for me. My question is, what are the signs I should look for when I’m beyond this simple solution and it’s time to get my blades sharpened. Thanks and keep up the good work! -Hubble_workshop   Sean: 1) How do you like the jet combo jointer/thickness planer? I’m space limited and thinking of replacing a 6” ridgid jointer and 10” inca combo machine. I’d like to have a larger jointer and was wondering how you like the combination machine. Did you consider other similar models?  Thanks - Adam 2) I recently acquired 120 bf of ash and thought it would be perfect to make a new office desk. I was thinking of making a metal base with ash top and ash cabinets underneath. There would be a single cabinet box on either side. I was thinking of making the cabinet box out of solid ash. Is this a good idea? Any concerns or should I still to plywood? The reason for ash would be to keep consistent wood/grain/color throughout. And the fact I have a lot of it. If solid wood is ok, any recommendations on box construction? Thanks! - crwoodshop   Huy: 1) Is there a distinct advantage to a cast iron router surface over a laminate one? The price difference seems negligible between the two.   Is there anything that we should consider specifically when getting a router table wing/insert with regards to fence and dust collection? For example, Saw Stop looks like it uses a proprietary fence that doesn't have dust collection at the fence. We're trying to "future-proof" our shop as best we can, so we don't want to be limited by being stuck to a single solution with regards to fences. Our plan is to put a JessEm Mast-R Lift II in whatever wing we get with the Porter Cable 7518.   Thanks for the awesome podcast. By far my favorite wood working podcast and something we look forward to every time we see a new episode release. Keep up the good work!   Chris and Lydia   2) I'm planning on building a few cedar shutters. I want to maintain the original wood color as much as possible and prevent the cedar from graying over time. What finish would you recommend that would both protect the wood from rain/sunlight and also prevent the wood from graying too quickly?   Thanks! - Josh
November 8, 2019
Support us on Patreon:   Guy 1) Have you ever made your own plywood from solid wood for projects?  I’m thinking a void free core of walnut plywood could allow me to use it in projects where the edge could be exposed unlike traditional veneered plywood and also give me some dimension stability.  You thoughts? Tips? Brian 2) I know at least one of you uses the Leigh dovetail jig. Just wondering how well the jig is made. If the tail and pin boards align, and if there is a lot of tweaking to get the jig to work properly. I have Porter Cable 4216 jig. I have been trying to get this to work for a case I am working on. I was having some problems with the tails and pins being about a sixteenth out of alignment. I took many measurements to be sure that the tail board is centered in the template only to discover as I loosened the template it could shift side to side by more that a thirty second of an inch. There are a few other things I am not crazy about with this jig. Just wondering what your experiences have shown using other jigs,   Also, thanks for answering all of my previous questions! - Dave Sean 1) I have been a weekend woodworker for 5 or so years as time permits with 3 kids and a busy schedule. I am working out of a 3 car garage that my wife and I both park in. I use about 1.5 bays currently and when I do not have a project I move equipment so I can park. I do not have an assembly or outfeed table to work from and often use the garage floor. Frustrating... I am looking for space savings option for a table, preferably one with dog holes so I can clamp to route, biscuit joint, and other assembly work. I currently do not have hand tools i.e. handsaws, planes, or chisels for heavy duty hand tool work. Maybe one that is portable like Guys outfeed table as I have an incra tablesaw fence as well. I don't know if a festool mft3 would be a solution as I could store it when not working/assembling. Maybe a storabe outfeed table as well as a storable assemble might work. I don't think I am ready for a hand tool workbench yet. My father in law had a production cabinet door and counter top shop with a large industrial CNC machine and could cut a festoool style top out of MDF that would not cost me anything out of pocket. Is that a good option? Any recommendations would be appreciated. 2) Shhhh.... don’t let Guy know I asked another question. Let’s just say this one is from Boudreaux François... hahaha With as many jigs and templates that are made for your projects through the years what do you do with them? Do you make them one time, use them then toss them out or repurpose them for other jigs? Aside from the obvious ones that are traditionally used in the shop (cross cut sleds, tapering jig, edge jointing jig for the table saw... etc) at what point do you say “I’m going to keep this one”. I have always struggled with the idea of spending the time to make these jigs and templates even if I know that I won’t necessarily be using it again in the next 6 months then just trashing it. Just curious. As always, Thank you for your time and please keep up the absolutely wonderful work y’all are doing on the podcast and your shops! The information y’all share is always spot on! Thanks,Brent JarvisClean Cut Woodworking   Huy 1) I am making a pair of side tables that are based on Philip Morley's table design from the #275 Fine woodworking issue. I've scaled it down and modified it to be a side table more than a dining table (proportionally shrunk all the dimensions, increased apron size to fit a shallow drawer in it and added a low shelf) but I am trying to keep a similar look to his original piece. So, I am using his techniques to create the legs which have a curved taper and Phil achieves this shape with a two-sided jig that he runs along a flush cut trim bit.My legs are 2 and 5/16 thick at the thickest part. Add on about 1/2 inch for the jig and that meant I needed to get a pretty tall flush cut bit. I bought a flush cut bit (top and bottom bearing) that is 2 and 1/2 inches long (2 and 1/2 cutting length, 3/4 wide, 1/2 shank, overall length 4 and 7/8) so that I could route it in one pass.I will set it up on the router table and I intend to cut real close to the line so I don't have much material to remove, but I am still a little nervous about it when I think about that tall bit. I have never used such a large bit before and would like to know what special considerations to take.Should I be concerned about the stability of the bit when it is that tall? 2) Hello again, some advice/brainstorming sought.I am building a puzzle building table. If you are unfamiliar, it is essentially a large box with a very shallow bottom so that a puzzle can be built on that surface. Two large leaves then fold over from the ends to cover the entire top, leave a table for other use.Because of the leaves unfolding and draping over the short ends, I need the end to be flush across, so a normal leg with the rails mortised in won't really work as insetting the rail isn't possible with the hinges, and flush (to me) won't look right. The ones I've seen on the internet build a big box then attach the legs inside the corners. I'd also like the legs to be removable so that it can be transported more compact as it will be "pub height" of about 40"I'm wondering what attachment method you might use to lace the legs on the inside corners, preferably removable, but also sturdy and non wracking.The rails will be about 8" wide (still designing) with the "bottom" about an inch from the top. So there will be about 6-7" available corner space underneath the top for the legs to rest.Any ideas? Thanks, Peter@mr.downing.woodworking on Instagram Our social media picks: Sean:  @thosmoserGuy: @pdindyHuy: @meredithhartfurniture   Thanks to the sponsor of this episode, Maverick Abrasives
October 25, 2019
Support us on Patreon: Guys Questions: 1) Hi guys , I have been pondering this for a while and just wanted some other perspectives, if you don't mind. Question, how would you go about veneering a cabriole leg, something in the Louis 14th era. I haven't found anything on how it was done (some kind of hammer veneering I'm guessing) I want to do this for a personal project and would appreciate any insights. Cheers, joey chalk. 2) I have an older coffee table. Nicely made from oak. It is finished in a dark brown stain and then covered in a glossy varnish (at least I think it's a stain/varnish combination). I like the coffee table, but the finish is not my style and would prefer it to be matt and/or lighter in color .I guess the easiest work is to just get it matt by lightly sanding it and refinishing it with matt varnish? Getting the color lighter will require more sanding and more work?What would your approach be? Any suggestions for stains, oils or another finishes that look natural/lighter? Thank you!Bart (from Belgium) Seans Questions: 1) I was wondering your thoughts about putting a wax finish over danish oil. I’ve heard that it’s more upkeep and unnecessary. I’ve finished a few small gift boxes made out of walnut with danish oil but I feel that I don’t quite get the patina I'm looking for. Do you have a favorite finish for small gift boxes? - Scott 2) Hi Guys,Thanks for putting together such a great podcast! I know that Guy has a 12" jointer/planer combo machine and believe Huy and Sean may also. I've asked Guy a few questions about his machine in the past and he has been kind enough to answer and even do a review of his machine...thanks Guy! I am looking to eventually purchase a similar machine to Guy's, but the Canadian importer I will purchase from offers both 12" and 16" models. Has there been a time that you've wished for a machine larger than 12"? Obviously the 16" is more money, an extra $1000 or so. Would you go for the 16", or is 12" more than enough? - Kreg Huys Questions: 1) I always here people talk about how you can’t trust the square you just bought to be square. Well, if nothing I have is square, then how the hell do I know what is actually square? This question of what is really square and what is not has been screwing with me for a couple of years now. So I just pass over it and get my stuff close enough.... which, of course, makes for its own set of headaches....PyratWoodworking 2) Loving the podcast guys! My question is regarding third party upgrades to bigger machines. Recently found a used Jet JJ-6CSX on marketplace for pretty cheap ($550) and the commercial contractor selling it must not have used it because it’s in amazing condition. That being said, I’m tempted to upgrade the cutter head. Although the knives are functional and fine, I know that a helical head has a lot more long term benefits. So my question is: Have any of you upgraded a cutterhead from a third party vendor before? If so, how did it work out? I have also only been able to find a couple of options from Grizzly or Byrd. Are there others out there that also make something that can fit this model and what should I be weary of when looking? As always thanks for all you guys do. JoeyWinter Wolf Woodworking   Our Social Picks: Sean: @StudioCSH Guy: @retiredwithwood Huy:  @fernwehwoodworking
October 11, 2019
Support us on Patreon: Questions Guy: 1) Hey guys! I Love the podcast and I've listened to every episode! I'm currently building a simple kitchen island and am having an issue with the top. The top will be made up of three 1.5" thick X 7.5" wide X 42.5" long pine boards. I have a cheaper Jet jointer/planer combo machine and I can't get a good seamless joint between the boards right off the machine. I'm attempting to fine tune the joint by hand using a No. 4 hand plane, but just can't seem to get a gapless joint. In your opinion, is it possible to properly square up the edge of a 1.5" thick, 42" long board using only a No. 4 or is something like a No 7 the only way to go? Any help would be appreciated. 2) Hey guys, I guess this is a question more for mr. Dunlap. In regards to your jessem stock guides; when do you find yourself using them vs not? For example what about pieces short enough not to catch both guides at the same time (where the first roller drops off before the second engages)? Or boards that are narrow to the point of a push stick being awkward. For example 3” or less? I’m a new convert and am loving them on wider stock such as plywood. Just not sure when else to use them. Thanks for the podcast. It’s the highlight of the week, and one saved for the arduous traffic of Los Angeles. Tanc. Sean: 1) Hey guys- I'm in the market for my first dust collector. I'm set on a canister filtr as my shop is in the basement. I'm torn between the Grizzly G0583Z - 1 HP Canister and the Grizzly G0548ZP - 2 HP Canister Dust Collector. I think Sean has the latter. My question is: Would the 1 HP collector be sufficient for a 620 sq ft shop using a one-tool-at-a-time setup? I don't see myself ever adding ductwork to every tool due to low ceilings. I plan on have dedicated shop vacs for tool like the miter saw, etc. I have 220V available but its at the opposite corner from where I want the collector to be, so I'm taking that hassle of extending that into consideration. The difference in cost is about $165 on Amazon (which is cheaper than directly from Grizzly when you consider $99 freight.Thanks for your time. Keep up the good work! 2) Your preference, Western push saw or Japanese pull saw? Huy: 1) Hey Guys,I built my wife a table and I started using my hand plane to level everything out. Occasionally, the toe of the plane would dig into the work piece. After a lot of explicit language, I'd get it "fixed". Any idea what could be going on? If it matters, it's a Stanley No 4  2) I have never used a spokeshave but I want to get one for making on site templates for built ins. Would this type of work be appropriate for the $30-40 level Stanley or kunz spokeshaves? I would also like to get one for use in the shop. Is there a spokeshave that could handle both equally well, or is that a case for nicer set (curved and flat bottomed for the shop) ? Social Picks Sean: @darrell.peart Huy:  @kieselbachworkshop Guy: @ramonartful
September 26, 2019
Support us on Patreon: Questions Guy: 1) I have a question regarding table saws. Since I still haven’t been able to convince my wife to let my buy a used Felder KF700 , what are your thoughts on other sliding table saws. I know you all have conventional cabinet saws. I’m considering getting the Grizzly G0623X as an upgrade to my Ridgid R4512. I’ve also looked at other table saws such as the SawStop and Powermatic PM2000. However with a traditional cabinet saw I’d also be considering getting the Incra Miter 5000. With that the cost ends up being more than the Grizzly. I’d be interested in hearing your guys thoughts on such options. -Ian 2) I’ve recently been looking into moisture meters and found the good ones seem to be $300 and up. I want to ask if you three use a moisture meter? If so, what do you use and recommend? Thanks for the great info on the podcast, it’s been a big help for this new woodworker. Keep up the good work.Matt in Alabama   Sean: 1) Hey guys, really enjoying the podcast. Makes my commutes far more enjoyable! My question for you is regarding resawing. I currently get by with an assortment of hand tools, a Dewalt DWE7491RS table saw with a stand that folds up on end, and a Dewalt thickness planer. While I would love to add a nice 14” bandsaw to the arsenal, I simply do not have the shop space at this moment in time. I am about to start making my wife a jewelry box using walnut for the sides and would like to incorporate a bookmatched maple top. I haven’t worked out the dimensions yet, but I will likely shoot for a panel size in the ballpark of 12”x10”x1/4”. As I see it, my options are to resaw by hand using a 22”-26” panel rip saw (need to purchase, and wouldn’t mind the workout), 10” bandsaw like the Rikon 10-306 (also need to purchase, would not take up too much valuable shop space, and would get me by until my shop space situation improves, which could be a while), or take a 20 minute drive to my buddy’s house to use his bandsaw. The major concern I have about using his bandsaw is running the risk of the resawn boards cupping due to the environmental differences between our shops. The order of my preferences are: using my buddy’s bandsaw first, followed by resawing by hand, and then buying the 10” bandsaw. Your advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks! - John 2) How flat is your outfeed/assembly table? I just made a 4’x6’ torsion box top for my outfeed / assembly table to maximize shop space. It didn’t come out as planned is if off as much at 1/64th in some places. Not sure what happened. It Seems to be flat along the length (according to my Veritas straightedge) but for some reason not acrossSeems to be about a 6” strip along one long side that is about 1/64 lower than the rest of the table. -Ray   Huy: 1) My first question is related to the different furniture styles. I hope to one day become a fine furniture maker myself so I am trying to learn more about the various styles (i.e. shaker, green and green, arts and crafts, danish/mid century modern, etc...) I feel that I am starting to get a good idea of what "defines" these styles but if you can provide any additional info on it that would be awesome.Specifically, one thing I struggle with is how wood selection relates to the different styles. I have heard statements before like "I considered making the piece out of Oak but that would take it to a more arts-and-crafts style" and I am a little unclear on how a piece can change styles based on wood selection even though the design is seemingly unchanged. -Bojan 2) I have another. Ive been woodworking for two years and i try to tackle a new skill each project. I love learning and love pumping out new pieces. My focus has been on the design and build phase. One area I can’t seem to care about is joinery. Is there anything wrong with dowel construction? I find the DowelMax gives me piston fit joints that are easy, quick and dead square. But sometimes I feel like a hack for not doing more complicated work. The tests I’ve seen show that dowels when used properly are equally as strong as M and T and stronger than dominos. Am I missing out? Can one still build “fine furniture” without M/T’s? Or should I man up and pull out the chisels? -Tanc   Social Media Picks: Guy: @marcadamsschoolofwoodworking Sean: @Pedullastudio Huy: @bernchandleyfurniture
September 13, 2019
Support us on Patreon: Questions Guys 1) I would like to have a better understanding of what is safe and what isn’t when cross cutting on the table saw. I have seen lots of videos and read lots of articles that mention how dangerous cross cutting on the table saw can be when the aspect ratio of the work is such that the distance between the blade and the fence exceeds the length of the edge that is against the fence. This makes perfect sense to me as you want to avoid the possibility of the work twisting between the blade and fence and kicking back. However, there are countless videos of supposedly knowledgeable woodworkers breaking down sheet goods and violating this aspect ratio rule. Do these rules not really apply when breaking down sheet goods for some reason? 2) Hello, I just picked up a Incra Ls positioner fence at a yard sale for $20, (they didn't know what it was). My question is when do you choose to use the Incra verses using your dovetail jig? I don't currently have a dovetail jig, are there some situations where a dovetail jig would be better? Any general discussion on the Incra would be great. Thanks, keep up the good work, the podcast has been excellent! - Travis Seans 1) This is a router operation question. I was recently making a new jig for a project that required that I cut a long slot all the way through a piece that would allow a bolt to slide along that piece. (The piece is 16 by 2 and is about 5/4 thick. I was cutting a 1/4 slot that ran in the middle of the piece for about 15 inches. It would allow bolts to pass through the piece and then it could slide along the bolts so that it's position can be adjusted. Hope that makes sense)I was using a 1/4 inch straight cutting bit in a router and making the cut in multiple passes. I had the cutting speed set relatively high (somewhere around 20,000 - 24,000 RPM) and was going about an 1/8 deep per pass. I was using a cheap bit so I was running in shallower passes than I would have thought necessary knowing that the performance of the bit is probably going to be lacking. Despite my best efforts the bit snapped off...Luckily it stayed in the groove I was cutting and did not become a projectile and there was no damage to the tool or the piece.The situation raised a few questions for me: 1. How deep would you plunge that size a bit and expect it to cut without any safety or performance concerns? (my piece was laminated baltic birch ply if the material makes a difference. Bit was a 1/4 inch, 1/4 shank straight cutting bit.)2. Is there something I should be doing in this type of situation to prevent this outcome? I had inserted the bit fully into the collet, I had set it to what I thought was an appropriate speed for it's size and I went shallow with my cuts not to stress it too much. Did I do the right things there? Other than getting a better bit, what would you do differently? 2) Hi Guys,My question is about Joiner fences. I picked up an old 6" Delta Shop Master a few years that was in great condition, except that the fence on the outfeed side is welded to the table. I've never had the need to change the fence's angle (it's welded and calibrated to 90°) but I could see adjusting it's depth to reduce wear on my straight blades.Do you guys find your self moving the fence often, or at all and if so, why?Thanks for sharing your expertise and furthering our craft! Justin Huys 1) Ahoy fellas. Absolutely love the podcast, been listening for a long time... BUT first time question for you. Router Slab jigs. I'm getting ready to do an epoxy table and have seen plenty of "how to" videos on building your own on the Tube of You. But none of them explain how to set them up. What exactly needs to be parallel? Do I need a perfectly flat surface to set my piece on or no? I'm guessing as long as I shim my workpiece, I'll be fine. But then do I also have to make sure the piece is roughly on the same plane as the rails? Overall my main worry is getting finished and I have one side of my table thinner than the other. What am I missing? Appreciate it! Keep up the GREAT work. Paul 2) Gonna keep this one simple. What is your favorite style of furniture to you enjoy building? Second part, what is your favorite period of furniture if it differs from what you enjoy building? Thank you for your time and please keep up the absolutely wonderful work y’all are doing on the podcast and your shops! The information y’all share is always spot on! Thanks,Brent JarvisClean Cut Woodworking Social Media Mentions Sean: @christopherscottfurniture Huy: @danielfurnituremaker Guy:
August 30, 2019
Support us on Patreon: Guys Questions: 1) I’ve always valued the information y’all share on the podcast and this one popped into my head. Sitting at work today as I was looking for the end of the internet I went down the rabbit hole of different wood glues. After going down the rabbit hole there was a lot of things that actually made sense for using different glues for different applications. I have always just used titebond 3 because it just seems like the most versatile of any other glue out there. It’s water resistant and food safe so why have 15 different glues for 1000 different applications. As I grow more and more into the trade it leads me to wanting to move more toward the more tried and true methods that some of the most reputable woodworkers have proved to be the best practices for certain applications. Leading into the question, (minus brands if you don’t want to go there) What types of glues do you migrate to the most and what is the reason for that? Is it a certain type of glue for a certain application or do you sort of do like me and stick with a particular glue for any project you make? Would you design a project and decide that you’re going to use a certain type of glue for it over another? Thank you for your time and please keep up the absolutely wonderful work y’all are doing on the podcast and your shops! The information y’all share is always spot on! Thanks,Brent JarvisClean Cut Woodworking 2) Re: your pick for the ETS125 - is that just a smaller Rotex 150 basically? Why not use RO150 to cover more area? I only have the RO150 and the triangle shaped one... DTS?? JJ Seans Questions: 1) I've got a large hole in a piece of ash. I'm not sure what to do with it. Other than. Fill with a black epoxy because the top will be stained pretty dark. I'm just worried it will be a really dark spot -Casey 2) Hi Guys, I am working on an entry table with through mortise and tenon joints with the tenon as a show feature. I am cutting the mortises using a drill press and cleaning up with chisels. I tried a sample piece and it does not look great. Is there a good technique to get a near perfect joint? Or will I be okay filling in the cracks with sawdust/glue filler trick? What do you recommend?Thanks for the advice. Keep up the great podcast!Thanks,James Huys Questions: 1) My son had a black walnut cut down last October. The arborist also had a portable mill so he milled up a number of slabs for me. I have kept these slabs in my garage since then. They are stickered and I put three ratchet straps around the pile to hopefully keep them flat. When is the right time to move them into the house? Is it ok to keep them in the garage? Have you guys harvested any lumber like this? I know Cremona has a process but I want to know what normal people do! JK! I love Cremona I've really enjoyed the format of the podcast. I listen to a number of them and I have to say this is on the top of the list. David 2) I’ve been commissioned to restore a round oak table with several leafs and 6 chairs....built in the early 1900’s! I’m excited for this project but restoration is still somewhat new to me. The table does have some water marks and other blushing on the finish, it I still don’t know what the finish is. I’d like to stay away from heavier solvents to avoid damaging the wood. Would going straight to an orbital sander or by hand with 120 be my best bet to get through safely? And if I wanted to try and remove a layer with a stripper of sorts, would I just guess between the mineral spirits or alcohols? Would love to hear your thoughts on this!Joey from Winter Wolf Woodworking   Our Social Picks: Huy: @plakotoris_studio Guy: @stenewoodwork Sean: @MrCabinetMaker
August 16, 2019
Support us on Patreon: Guys Questions: 1) Do you believe a grounding wire is required for home/hobby dust collection systems ? Eric 2) Hi Guys, love the podcast. I have a question on pricing / bidding your work. Do you have a standard formula, eg. 4x material? Do you ask the potential client how much they’re looking to spend and see if you can do it profitably? Any banter and guidance on the subject would be appreciated. Hope to make it into the podcast. Best, Will Seans Questions: 1) Hello guys, first of all great podcast, the questions are always my favourite part of any podcast so I really love your format. My question is regarding a standard drum sander vs. an orbital drum sander. I have seen a few on Craigslist for sale- the one I'm considering is a 2010 Jet 22-44max for $400. In doing research I see a lot of the new models are random orbit. Will this make a huge difference? I'm on a budget so a new machine isn't going to happen and I haven't seen any used random orbit models for sale. -Travis 2)Hey Guys!!!! A big fan of all 3 of you and love the show!!!!Question for all of you...What brand of router bits do you prefer? With there being tons out there, which one is your go-to brand of bits? Whiteside, Freud, Amana, CMT, Irwin, etc... I hear lots of tool reviews out there, but never a really lot on router bits.I would love to hear your thoughts on it and see which ones you guys like.Keep the podcast coming!!!! Nick Huys Questions: 1) Not liking the end of day cough, I've been investing in dust collection. I use a Festool dust extractor for small tools. I run a WEN air filter. I have built a DIY cyclone separator out of an older JET 30um bag collector. The one tool that still throws dust all over me and into the air is my Sawtop table saw. I'm thinking of investing in ovehead dust collection, but I'm wondering if it is practical, effective, and worth the investment. As I think Sean has the sawstop dust collection guard, I'm wondering how well it works or if there are better alternatives. What is your experience? John from AZ 2) Are there any pieces of furniture that are in your home that you wish you had not bought/made? I often look at the furniture that I bought from a certain Swedish brand and wish I had the time to make something nicer/better. Thanks guys, love the pod and keep up the great work. Paul Social Picks Sean @markbuildsit Huy @lesliewebbdesign Guy @satansdogg
August 2, 2019
Support us on Patreon: Guys Questions: 1) Would also like to get either an Incra Miter Sled or Miter Gauge. I see they have a sled/gauge combo or a sled with an integral miter gauge. Can you discuss the pros and cons of each option? - David 2) For Router table use is there really a difference when using a pattern bit vs a flush-trim bit when you want to flush an edge up with a template? Does riding the bearing on top vs on the bottom cause any safety concern? Does one leave a better/worse edge or does it even matter? Thanks, Ryan Seans Questions: 1) Hey guys, love the podcast. Especially listening to guy, because I feel like I'm listening to myself from the future. In response to your recent call for more questions, I have one about tool sharpening. Specifically, what kind of honing jig to buy. I see there are a lot of them out there, but do you have any recommendations on a specific one to get. I'm getting into more hand tool work, and I want to be able to maintain my own chisels, as well as restore some old hand planes that I have. Any advice you may have is much appreciated. Thanks again for being willing to share your knowledge and experience. -Tavis 2) You've mentioned some of the books you've relied on, and I appreciate that, since I'm a green-as-grass beginner, and benefit from any source of information I can get. I'd also like to hear you talk about what mentors or teachers you had who helped shape your skills. Have any of you taken formal classes or gone to woodworking schools? I know that the best way to develop skills is by building furniture and learning from mistakes, but I also hope to participate in a class sometime, if only to find an active woodworking community. - Martin Huys Questions: 1) I've recently bought a good planer/jointer combo machine. It uses 3 planer knives in the cutter block. I won't be using it enough to consider an upgrade to some sort of helical cutterhead. So I've been thinking about a practical way to sharpen the knives. I've come to a jig, some sort of wooden block with an insert for one knife. The top surface of the block is tilted in such a way that my water stones have support for the correct angle when I use them to sharpen the edge.The jig works, but I wonder if there is a more practical (faster) way to sharpen. I see that Tormek sells a sharpening system that does this, but since it costs more than the helical cutter block, I find that too expensive.My question: do you know of an affordable sharpening system for planer knives (mine are 10" long)? - Bart 2) Looking at finishing the top I was going to use epiphanies spar varnish but was wary of using this finish because of UV resistance. Would this inhibit the natural darkening of Cherry? My other option was General finishes ARM R seal or Waterlox. I don’t have way to spray so conversion varnish is out of the question. My other thought was to dye the slab with Lye and use the Epifanes. Keep up the good work. ThanksJesseBeechland Furniture   Social Picks Guy: @kingposttimberworks Sean: @hawthorne_fine_boxes Huy: @affinecreations
July 19, 2019
Support us on Patreon: Guys Questions: 1) Hi guys love the show. I have a question about finishes. My generation (millennial) is into natural products. So I would like to have most and if not all my products that I have lined up ready to be finished to be natural. I've thought about shellac but for the projects that will be around alcohol, shellac is basically out of the picture. But I was wondering if I could put wax over it and that would help with the sealing or if I have to try something else? If I have to try something else what would you suggest that's a natural sealer? Some of my projects include a tabletop and beer caddy. Have you ever heard of the safe coat as a sealer? -Paige 2) Absolutely love the podcast guys, keeps my long drives to and from work educational and also tolerable. I know finishing has been covered a lot, but I can’t recall if the technique was ever covered. And also technique specific to the type of finish. I would love to spray everything, but as my shop is also my garage that isn’t always an option. What have you found easiest for applying different finishes? Natural bristle brushes, synthetic/polyester bristle brushes, foam brushes, plain old wiping on with an old t-shirt, spit shine, etc....I’ve also noticed I’m finding myself putting 2-3 coats on and then sanding back a coat instead of doing the light sanding with every single coat. Seems to work, but am I just wasting finish due to impatience? And Guy always talks about his famous BLO, poly, naphtha wipe-on varnish. I’d love to try that, how is it mixed and what is the amount of each product in the final mixture? Finishing never ends and I’d love to hear your thoughts.Joey from Winter Wolf Woodworking Seans Questions: 1) I'm in the market for my first Jointer. As usual, not a lot of money to spend. I am looking for a used Jointer and would like to know what I should be looking for, what I should avoid, and how to prioritize this list. The price range is up to $400. My project focus is furniture and jewelry box making. I have a small shop, under 200 sqft. Love your podcast and really appreciate all the information and tips you guys share. Thomas 2) I know this may be a bit of a loaded question as there are so many variables to consider but with the audience that is to be considered. I know what my particular practices are and they haven’t failed me yet. I believe it may be a good one for some of the “newer” woodworkers out there would really benefit from hearing it from some highly experienced makers as yourselves. Hi fellows... I would normally say guys but well... we all know theirs only one Guy here. I wanted to know about glueing up a panel from several boards. When gluing up a panel at what point would you consider using something such as a dowel or a domino to keep the boards aligned? Is there a certain thickness, length, or even width that you’d feel that there would be a need for adding this type of structural support to the glue-up. I know that they help out a ton with alignment but I’d like to know what your thoughts are on this subject. Thank you for your time and please keep up the absolutely wonderful work y’all are doing on the podcast and your shops! The information y’all share is always spot on! Thanks,Brent Jarvis Huys Questions: 1) I’m in the process of revamping and improving my shop, and the next step is dust collection. I have a 1.5 hp Shop Fox dust collector moving 1280 cfm of air. My problem is always with the friction loss in the flexible hoses. I plan to install 6” pvc on the wall and snub shorter flexible sections to some of the bigger tools. My question is regarding the split offs. Are the stop gates enough to single out air flow to certain machines? And what is the best way to reduce this down to a hose for handheld power tools? 2) I would like to purchase a new dado stack. I have an old Craftsman set that is steel - not carbide tipped. What do you guys use? Can you recommend a brand that works for you?   Social Picks Guys: @bearkatwood Seans: @duncangowdy Huys: @louis_fry_furniture
July 4, 2019
Support us on Patreon: Guys Questions: 1) Hey Guys, a question on when a breadboard end is needed on a table top. I'm making my first kitchen table with a 5/4 35” x 8’ oak top. My client didn’t like the look of a breadboard end so I’m a bit concerned about movement down the road. The top won’t overhang the aprons by more than 4” and I’m planning to connect it with those z clips with a couple of cross pieces to keep it rigid. Do you think I run a risk of cupping? I’ve thought about getting some of those c-channel iron to route into the underside but is that overkill? Homarus woodworks 2) Hi guys, love the show. I have a would you rather question on finishing. Would you rather finish a whole large project or try and match a finish for a smaller project. My specific scenario is refinishing my basement bar. I’m going with dark cabinets and I know I’m going to have to make shelves and trim to match. Do I get unfinished cabinets and finish it all myself so they’re the same, or try and match prefinished cabinets? Thanks! Matt Seans Questions: 1) Hi, I have a question for the podcast. I am about to start drawers for my dresser build and the sides call for 1/2" material. Would you use 4/4 material making a lot of waste or would you go to a thicker material and resaw for the 1/2" final dimensions hoping to cut down on waste? Would the type of wood you are using sway your decision as wood stability may cause the wood to cup/bow more than others? Thanks, Ryan. 2) Is there a special technique for sanding round overs? I've tried sanding round overs by hand, but end up with scratch marks long the "top" of the piece. When I try sanding with a random orbit sander, I feel like it eats away too much wood and it's not a consistent round over anymore. Thoughts? Matt Huys Questions: 1) I’m wanting to make a cross-cut sled for trimming the ends on boards that I’ve glued up. I want the cross-cut sled to have the most capacity that it can. So, I’m probably going to end up building something like Huy’s “Aircraft carrier”. Any tips on making that thing as accurate as it can possibly be? Is there anything you’d do differently if you had to remake it? Y’all are great! Keep the podcasts coming!!Cory 2) My question for all of you is about ordering lumber and sheet goods online versus buying in person and being able to pick through and select boards. Do you have experience ordering large quantities of sheet goods online? What about hardwoods? What do I need to know before placing an order for things like this? Any tips for ensuring I receive quality plywood for cabinets? I’m relatively new to woodworking so any technical advice or terminology to use would be greatly appreciated. I know higher quality plywood typically has more plies, but I’m not sure how to even specify this or tell how many plies the sheets for sale online have. Could you recommend any sources for ordering online? I’m located in the Tampa, Florida area. I am tired of imposing on friends and family to borrow a pickup truck to pick up all the sheet goods I need and I don’t mind paying for the convenience of truck delivery if it’s an option worth considering. However, I do not want to waste money if I’m going to get all the crappy sheets that they can’t sell in person because they are all busted and warped with gaps in the laminations. Thank you all for putting out such quality and informative podcast. I’ve enjoyed every episode so far.-Hunter   Our Social Picks Guy: @tomfoolerywood Sean: @mhwoodworker Huy: @eastoakww
June 21, 2019
Support us on Patreon: Guys Questions: 1) Hey guys keep up the good work on the podcast. My question is regarding grain fillers. Have you ever used these on open grain species such as oak to get a smooth finish? I have an oak bar table I’m in the process of making and was contemplating using this after a waterbased dye and before a finish coat of waterlox.Thanks, Jesse 2) I find the vacuum bag to be more than just a clamp for veneer. I want one and would like to know what I should be looking for when considering a purchase. -sergeantmaker Seans Questions: 1) How much scrap is too much? I like to hold onto smaller pieces I can make into wedges, bow ties, etc....but when is enough truly enough? Are there certain pieces you’ll keep, more rare species of wood? Or is it straight to the kindling pile? Winter wolf woodworking 2) Good morning Guy, Huy, and Sean. I had a question on tool brands. I get asked all the time from my peers in the community what brand of tool is better than another. My general answer to all of them is usually the same every time. Within the budget you’re looking to spend there are usually a few different brands. Within those price points, all of these tools are going to perform basically at the same level and have the same features. The best thing you can do is go put your hands on it, feel the tool, see how it works and if it’s a good fit for you. My question to you all is when you are looking for a new tool no matter hand tool or power tool is a particular brand one of the first things you look for or do you go after that budget point versus quality and functionality? Thank you for your time and please keep up the absolutely wonderful work y’all are doing on the podcast and your shops! Thanks,Brent JarvisClean Cut Woodworking Huys Questions: 1)  I have a couple questions about lumber storage. This would be for dried lumber. Do you store it horizontally with stickers, horizontal without stickers, or can you store it vertical? For longer lumber, it may be more efficient to store it vertically. What do you guys do? David 2) I was wondering if any of you use specialty chisels in your work. Fishtail or skew chisels for example. Do you have multiple sets? Mortise, dovetail, paring, etc. Keep up the good work. Joshua Messick   Our Social Media Picks: Guy: @nickjamesdesign Sean: @jonathanscott_woodcrafts Huy: @alcornwoodworking
June 7, 2019
Support us on Patreon: Guys Questions: 1) I’m interested to know, before youtube and Instagram, who inspired you? -ralphbrackney 2) Is there any issue with the combo machines having a shorter bed length for the planer aspect? - Brent   Seans Questions: 1) What is your biggest screw up/mistake on a project and what did you do to fix, cover up or a notable screw up with a clever fix. Not the worst but you got creative with the fix.-R2 Woodworking. 2) I just wanted to say thank you guys for sharing your wealth of knowledge on the subject of woodworking. I work as a law enforcement officer and listening to your podcasts on my way home from work help me not only unwind but expand my understanding of the craft. I am a hobbyist who is just getting into woodworking and was curious if you guys could point me in the right direction of specific written literature so I can really nail down the basics before moving on to more complex tasks. Thanks again, Luke   Huys Questions: 1)Regarding thin kerf blades - seems like you guys didn't like them? I bought a "Freud" thin kerf ripping blade for my underpowered Delta from Lowes. That Freud thin kerf completed changed my saw for the better. Huge difference. Anyway were you guys worried about flex or something with the thin kerf? I didn't understand. - JJ 2) Years ago, before I really got into woodworking, I painted some cheap 1/4” plywood for a project. I only painted one side and over (very little) time the pieces curled up like taco shells. Since then, I have always finished both sides of the plywood. I am currently making a shelving unit that will be wedged into a corner. I am using 3/4” blondewood ply from the big box stores. The backside of the shelving unit will never be seen. On plywood this thick, do I still need to keep painting both sides? If so, does it need an equal number of coats on both sides? - Hunter Robinson Books mentioned: Essential Joinery Illustrated Cabinetmaking The Why and How of Woodworking The Anarchist's Tool Chest Understanding Wood The Complete Illustrated Guide To Joinery Our Social Media Picks: Guy: @tim_noone_furnituredesign Sean: @haltaylor_rocks Huy: @bbumslife
May 24, 2019
Support us on Patreon: Guys Questions: 1) A follow-up question that may get Guy going: I’m currently upgrading my 3hp sawstop pcs 52 inch because I’m moving states and gifting it to my father. Originally, my thoughts were to go right to the 5HP Sawstop ICS without much consideration for other saws. I do like the safety feature just as an insurance Policy because you never know - we all do stupid things from time to time. Can you speak on times where the sawstop does not operate as intended and fails to save the injury and other saws that may be better but do not include the technology? I am typically pretty careful.-Ray 2) I emailed a little while ago to ask about MFT tops and all I have found premade so far are MDF tops for the MFT. BUT I found these tops and benches by Armor tools. It is a butcher block top and has 3/4 inch holes. I do use Festool sanders, a router, and track saw but is there any reason that using a 3/4 inch dog hole top would be inferior to the 20mm top Festool uses? I know the Festool dog hole devices will not work but there are lots of 3/4 inch accessories. If the dog holes are aligned correctly I can bump the Festool track against the dogs to line up cuts. Am I missing a downside? The armor tool top is $200-250 but seems more sturdy than the MDF. Lamar Sean's Questions: 1) Hey guys. Love the podcast as always. Please keep it up! I have a quick question about finishing. I know you covered this topic but I’m curious about protection from water marks. I had a client recently that wanted a long desk for her children out of walnut. I explained that water in wood or wood finish is never a good idea. (Leaving standing water, cups rings, etc) is there a finish out there( besides epoxy) that will withstand this water. I am also wondering about hot items. I’ve noticed some finishes(lacquer) will leave a ring if you put a hot cup on it. Are there finishes that won’t fail with either of these issues? Thanks so much. Ryan Wilging 2) Hey guys, Love the show, definitely one of the best Woodworking podcasts out there. I’m going to build a 2 car garage (approx. 24’x30’) for use as my new shop. I’m a hobbyist woodworker, mostly a couple of hours here and there nights and weekends. If you were building a new shop from the ground up, what features and considerations would you recommend? Thanks, Ron   Huys Questions: 1) My question is regarding Baileigh Industrial tools. I currently own an 8" Baileigh jointer (IJ-875) and really like it. I've been contemplating purchasing a free standing router table and possibly a cyclone style dust collector. My current shop is outfitted nicely with good tools i.e. Powermatic planer, drum sander and mortiser, Sawstop TS, Laguna bandsaw, etc but I'm wondering if any of you have experience with Baileigh and what your opinion is of them. I find their prices are slightly less than say Powermatic and other top brands so it makes sense to consider them only if they're a trusted brand. I don't see or hear much about them and all I have to go on is the jointer I have. I will say their manuals leave a lot to be desired. Thanks for any input! Michael 2) Huy, how is the baby? My wife and I had our first not long after you, he is a 4-month-old little boy now - The work life/home life balance came relatively easy, but I’m having trouble adding in shop time especially during the week - if I only have between 5 and 9 with the family how do I justify spending a quarter of that time fooling around in the shop? Or am I now destined to be a weekend warrior? Oh, actual question, how is Huy handling it? Matterhorn woodworks   Our Social Picks: Sean: @CTFineFurniture Guy: @prusawoodworks Huy: Kevin0611
May 10, 2019
Support us on Patreon: Guys Questions: 1) What's your least favorite wood species to work with and why? Eric 2) Thank you for all the great content and for coming together to create this podcast. I've learned a lot from all three of you over the last few years. Here's my question: I live near the coast in North Florida which is a very warm and humid climate. Huy, I know you live in Alabama, so maybe you can relate to this. My shop is climate controlled in that it has central A/C, but it's an old building and the humidity level varies greatly throughout the year. I don't have local access to a lot of hardwood lumber, but what I can get is typically kiln dried and stored in non climate controlled environments before I get my hands on it. It seems like invariably the lumber I get warps in some way, almost regardless of how long I let it sit before milling it and the moves again after I mill it. I know this is common, but I think the amount of movement I'm seeing is not what you'd see in a climate with more moderate humidity, but maybe I'm wrong. The exception to this is a batch of air dried cherry that I picked up from someone that had been drying for about 20 years. Given that I don't want to wait 20 years before starting each project, is there anything I can do to reduce the amount of movement I'm seeing in my lumber and can you talk a little bit about techniques you might employ if the wood does move so that it's not just all wasted. For example; alternating cups and bows when gluing a panel together so that they kind of cancel each other out. Thanks again for your willingness to share your experiences with the community. Dave Seans Questions: 1) Seeing other woodworkers invest into the community is awesome, I appreciate that you guys are doing your part to keep our craft alive. I have a question for you guys. I have found in many cases its easier to break out a hand tool, than to set up an operation using power tools. In what cases will you choose a hand tool over a power tool, and why? Would love to hear your thoughts on this. regards,Mike MillerMillerWoodcraft 2) My wife and I recently bought our first house and are looking to freshen up the kitchen. Looking to do a painted finish but I am trying to weigh the pros and cons of refinishing what we have or purchasing new cabinets. The current cabinets are solid oak boxes with MDF doors with veneered front, original to the house. Originally I was going to build new shaker style doors and then paint everything to match. However, after doing some test doors on the router table with tongue and groove bit, I am not feeling so confident(novice woodworker) with that and also the amount of work involved to remove the finish and repaint all the boxes as well. Given all that, it seems easier or more cost and time effective to buy new cabinets that I can finish myself or possibly pre-finished in the color we want. Any insight or advice you guys could provide would be very beneficial. Thank you in advance and absolutely love the podcast! Andy Huys Questions: 1) Question - I have a Delta 28-243 14" bandsaw with a riser block kit that I've been slowly upgrading. I've put new wheel bearings and urethane tires on. Next step I'm thinking about is ordering the Carter wheel guides instead of using cooling blocks. They are spendy, so do you think it's worth the upgrade? Thanks, love the show! -Larry 2) Hey gents, love the podcast here is a question/show topic for you. What are your top 5 productivity techniques when building furniture? I'm sure there a ton of juicy nuggets in there that can help a ton of people including myself. I'm running a furniture business on the side and I'm trying to get faster while increasing/maintaining my quality. Thanks guys, Brad   Our Social Picks: Sean YouTube pick: Thomas Johnson Antique Furniture Restoration Huy: @willowswoodworks Guy: @tektonguild
April 26, 2019
Support us on Patreon: Guys Questions: 1) Hello Guy, Sean, and Huy - I am about to begin making two solid walnut dressers and I would love to hear your input on web frames. I’ve seen a few methods for attaching them to the casework, such as sliding dovetails, shallow dado grooves with the frames glued at the front of the case and floating in the back, and screws with elongated slots to allow for the casework to expand independently of the web frames. One of the dressers will have two columns of three drawers with a vertical center divider in the middle, and the other is five drawers high. Each case will be 18” deep with dovetails as the joinery. How would you guys go about attaching the web frames? Thank you for all of the invaluable work and education you continue to put into the woodworking community! Gregory Raiewski 2) What is the piece you've built that you are most proud of? Eric Seans Questions:  1) I’ve actually had several questions over the last few weeks but never got around to sending them. I’m wondering what your thoughts are on using 1 runner vs 2 on a table saw sled. Thanks, Brian 2) Can you talk about the potential disadvantages of putting the right side of your table saw up against a wall? I have a 52” sawstop and want to maximize shop space, as I work out of a 2 car garage that is about 500 square feet. - Ray   Huys Questions: 1) Absolutely love the podcast! Y’all have some great information and I’d like to thank you for taking time out of your lives to share your knowledge with others! I had a question about how you go about choosing a finish for a piece you’re going to build. At what point do you figure out exactly what finish you’re going to use? A side question to this would be how would you know when to use a dye or pigment rather than a stain or a particular type of oil on that project? I have seemed to “struggle” in a sense on narrowing down exactly what route to take for a finish to give my builds the best finish for color and longevity. Just would like to hear what your input would be on this topic. Thank you again for the wonderful shop talk podcast. Keep up the great work! Clean cut woodworking 2) Hey Guys, I’ve got a question for the podcast that I’ve never heard anyone address. Is it worth it to invest in high-dollar drill bits? As a hobbyist on a tight budget, I generally get new bits at the box store, but sometimes I can look at them while they are spinning, and tell that they are not spinning straight. They seem to do the job, but I always wondered if having better bits (or possibly a better drill, I guess) is worth the money? Thanks, and love the great show format. Sincerely, Scott A.Jackson, TN Our Instagram Picks Sean: @Kyllesebree Guy: @crosscutvintagedesigns Huy: @w_squared2
April 12, 2019
Support us on Patreon: Guy's Questions: 1) Hey guys, I hope all is well. When I was building my Roubo workbench I ran into a rust problem. I purchased kiln died lumber from a trusted source. I drilled a hole in some 4" thick walnut for my tail vise end cap. I inserted my bench crafted screw to check the fit and left it for a few days. When I removed the screw it had rusted. Any thoughts on why this happened? Should I paint the section of the screw that will remain in the endcap? JD Messick 2) What do you guys think are the essential measuring tools that any woodworker should start out with; ie combination squares, rulers, etc. and any brand recommendations you might have. Any input is appreciated. -Travis Sean's Questions: 1) Gents, I'm torn at the moment as I am in the process outfitting my new 400sf stand-alone shop. Until recently, I've planned to install a 2 stage dust collection system with super dust deputy, externally venting fan and hard ducting with blast gates to each tool. I recently snagged up a used Festool domino ($675!) and ETC 125. I'm becoming a convert and seriously considering scrapping the dust collector plan and getting an Extractor to switch around as needed for each tool. What are your thoughts on going with 1 method over the other? I can't afford both at the moment. Which extractor would you recommend? Is it feasible to hook a single extractor to all my other non-Festool equipment? I'm assuming that a little adapter would be needed for each. Other tools in the shop include a table saw, bandsaw, disc, and spindle sanders, planer, jointer, etc. Cheers! Clayton 2) I am planning to build a bookshelf for my son that will be around 5.5 feet tall, 3 feet wide and around 15 inches deep. I am planning to use plywood with a solid wood face frame and have two sturdiness questions. First, what thickness should I use for the plywood? I've been planning on 3/4 but am not sure if that is overkill/too heavy or if it's what I should be using. Second, what are some suggestions for standing stability? It will be on carpet and I'm wondering if there are ways to stabilize it without attaching it to the wall. My son is one and grabs, pulls and climbs on everything so I want to make sure there is no way he can get it off balanced enough for it to come down. Thanks in advance for any suggestions and advice you have to offer! Regards,Alan Dills Huy's Questions: 1) Hey guys, loving the podcast and listening to the back catalog. Topic for Huy, can you elaborate on the benefits, ease of use, and justification with your scope of work and the cost of the pantorouter? Do you think this is a tool where you will find a way to use it on nearly every project? That thing looks awesome! Thanks! Nutone woodworker 2) What’s up guys, I’m hoping by the end of the summer to have a much bigger shop space. First purchase I would like to make is a Jointer. Looking at the Grizzly 8” w/ a helical head. Any opinions on that specific one would be great, also open to suggestions on others. But my main question is, does a jointer replace a planer? Besides a planer being self-feeding, what are the actual differences? Thanks, guys look forward to the show every other week Tom Our Instagram Picks: Sean: @justin_dipalmaGuy: @garagewoodworksHuy: @ericreason
March 29, 2019
Support us on Patreon: Guys Questions: 1) My question for the guys. With the internet providing information and inspiration for projects, do you still subscribe to woodworking magazines?Eric (Poplar_shop) 2) Love the podcast guys. Got a question for the podcast. If you only get 3 Festool tools to that you could have in your shop what would they be? The domino can’t be included in your 3 tools. I have a track saw and looking into a sander possibly the rotex 125. I’m not sure I could justify the price of the kapex though I see you guys all have one.Chris   Seans Questions: 1) This may be too basic to address on the shoe but you all talk of different benches. Assembly, work, and out-feed. I get what an out-feed bench is but what is the difference between work and assembly bench. Rick 2) Can you guys talk tack saws in a future episode? I’ve got some large panels to cut for a coffee bar i’m building and need some feedback on different brands. - W B Designs   Huys Questions: 1) I have a question about a stand-alone router table vs table saw extension wing router table. I’ve recently purchased a 3.25HP router and lift, and I’m now ready to build a dedicated router table. My workspace is a 20’x20’ garage that I share with the family van. Space is limited and everything has to be mobile. My vision has always been to add an extension wing router table to my cabinet saw. My recent concern is keeping the table flat over time. I’ll incorporate a torsion top, but I fear the saw will get too heavy to move around. Do you think I’ll have long term success with the extension wing or should go with a stand alone router table? I look forward to the input, keep up the good work! Thanks Jacob from North Carolina 2) Hi Guys, I love the show. I don’t have any woodworking buddies, so I love the Q&A format because you answer a lot of questions I have as a newish woodworker. I’ve been looking at building a new workbench and like any good woodworker, I’m doing too much research and not enough building. My question is about work holding. What types of vices do you guys prefer, why, what are the pros and cons. I was specifically debating between the Veritas twin screw or a Benchcrafted leg vice and could add a Moxon vice down the line if needed. Do you have any thoughts on either of these? I have a pretty small shop so I do mostly hand tool work since I don’t have much room for machines.Thanks! Matt   Our Instagram picks: Huy: @McintyrefurnitureSean: @gregoryraiewskiGuy: @Woodreview
March 15, 2019
Support us on Patreon: Guys Questions: 1) Worst injury you've suffered from the shop? -Eric 2) I’m fairly new to woodworking and need to upgrade my job site saw to a more robust table saw with good fence options. This is just a hobby so I won’t be running it 40hrs a week. The problem is that I don’t have 220v near the garage and future plans include relocating the workshop to the other side of the property so it would be a waste to pay an electrician to run a new 220 circuit to the garage. I’ve been looking at the Powermatic PM1000 or the Grizzly G0833P hybrid saw. Both can be wired for 110 and 220 and seem to have enough power for the type of woodworking I do. Bobby    Seans Questions: 1) Hey guys! Love the podcast. If you’ve already addressed it please direct me to the episode, but otherwise, Pre-finish... I hear of/see people doing it but don’t understand. Do you pre-finish to get the colour you want, then finish for the durability and or level of gloss? And what combinations of products work? I wouldn’t have thought all products will adhere to an oil for instance. Cheers, Mark 2) Hey guys! The show is phenomenal and your content is inspiring. Do you ever follow up with past customers to see how your furniture pieces have aged? I'm always trying to learn new things and get better in the craft. A feedback loop or some kind of retrospective (Shawn, as a software guy you might appreciate that...) would help to get some insight on what design or construction choices worked well and what might need some tweaking. Maybe that's opening up pandora's box and is ill-advised, just curious as to your opinions. Firelight_1226   Huys Questions: 1) Okay, I’ve got another one for you three. I finished up installing the riser block on my powermatic bandsaw and after quite a bit of time getting everything tweaked and dialed for regular use with a standard seems great now but I want to address my fence situation before attempting resawing with my 3/8” woodslicer blade. What fences/styles of fences do you guys prefer for resawing. The one that came with the saw is quite short and so I’m thinking something that is tall but switchable to shorter for smaller pieces. I’m seeing aftermarket options from Kreg, Shopfox, Laguna, and MuleCab. They have a broad range of prices and that Laguna Driftmaster is like $400 so I just don’t know where to start or if you guys like the fences with the D-shaped bump in the center for guiding the wood on. And then to follow that, what kind of feather boards do you prefer, if at all, when resawing. So grateful for the time you spend on this podcast for our community, keep up the great work! Jonathan Scott Woodworks 2) My hobby has been transitioning lately toward commissions, and so I find myself consider things like time and cost more than when making gifts or just myself. (Good, you should be.)I wonder how you make decisions about things like joinery (example, mortise and tenon vs a pocket screw, hand-cut vs. machine cut), materials, finish (shellac vs poly when you’re worried about the end user’s abuse) etc. Basically, what things do you consider when it is a piece for sale and what factors do you use when making those decisions?When might you turn down a job? As a beginner in the commission market, should I take jobs that are good experience even if they aren’t technically a profit? I do have a day job that pays the bills.Finally, do you ever consider it based on the tools you have? Would you ever make a purchase for a job and not consider it part of what the client pays for because it makes the job faster or easier down the line?Thank you all for your input.Peter Downing
March 1, 2019
Support us on Patreon: Guys Questions 1) I've been enjoying the podcast and all the content you produce on your YouTube and Instagram accounts. I wanted to ask a question about plywood. I'm wondering what's the best way to make sure the that plywood is square before breaking it down to more manageable pieces for the table saw? I know you shouldn't really trust that the factory edges are square so I'm just a little confused on how you get the sheet square if you don't have a reliable edge to reference off. I don't have a track saw in my tool collection yet so I'm using a circular saw and a straight edge. I might be over thinking this and confusing myself but if you can provide some insight or a good way of accomplishing this task that would be awesome. Thanks for the great info you guys provide! 2) What's your favorite wood species to work with and why? Seans Questions 1) Hey guys, podcast has been great but it feels like forever since there was a question about finishing :) My question is about what kinds of finishes you guys use on drawer boxes. Specifically, for something like a kitchen cabinet, a shop cabinet, and a drawer box in a furniture piece like a dresser or a nightstand. I know there are concerns about off-gassing of oil based finishes inside cabinets. Curious about what you recommend. 2) Give me a 101 level primer in getting started in spraying finishes. What type of machine should I buy and what kind of finishes/paint should I spray? Huys Questions 1) Huy mentioned last week some tips regarding wood movement and the process of keeping a table top flat, and that the 2 most important aspects were to allow the wood to acclimate to your shop, and to properly mill the wood. I was wondering if you guys could speak a bit more to that. For example, how long do you allow the wood to acclimate to your shop? And are there any tips you'd be willing to share, or give examples of your process in regards to milling? How long is it okay to wait after the first milling to take it down to final dimensions? My shop currently is a non-insulated detached garage outside Chicago, where weather/humidity can change rapidly from one day to the next. I really value the work you guys do and the information you give out each episode. Thank you for getting right into the Q&A and mostly for taking the time to share your skills and knowledge with those of us still learning. 2) Question about workbench tops. I’m planning to build a workbench in the near future. I’ve seen plenty of dog holes and understand the basic pros and cons but I’m considering a t-track top. Your thoughts on this are appreciated.
February 15, 2019
Support us on Patreon: Guys Questions: 1) Hey guys. Love the pod! I have I think an easy question. This is my first project with hard woods other than poplar trimming. So here it goes... I am making one of those balancing wine holders as a birthday gift but I want to dress it up a bit. I have a piece of hard maple. I want to frame the maple with a .5” -.75” strip of Purple Heart around it, mitered in the top corners. The overall dimensions will be about 15” x 5.5” My question is this. The top piece of Purple Heart would be running the grain perpendicular to the maple. Is this a bad idea? Should I cross cut that strip of PH so all the grain is running the length of the piece? -Jonvigorito 2) Thank you so much for putting out this podcast, it's made my boring commute to work a whole lot more enjoyable! My question is, what are your thoughts on using the Metric system in your shop? As an American woodworker, I primarily use Imperial units for measuring, but have found it easier to switch to Metric for certain tasks like dividing a space by an odd number. Thanks again,Justin   Seans Questions: 1) Wondering what you guys recommend for a good doweling jig, that can do both wide and thin stock? Also your opinion on the Triton Dowel jointer. - Christopher 2) Hey guys just started listening to your show, I’m new to woodworking and every episode I’ve learned something new from you guys. Love the show. I’m starting to work with hardwoods for the first time, been wanting to make cutting boards, coasters, cigar ash trays etc. looking into Thin Kerf blades but don’t know much about them. So my first question is are they necessary, and secondly which ones do you suggest(more on the low end of price) I’ve looked at Freud 10” 24T Ripping Saw & Amana Tool Mamba Series MA10024 Thin Kerf Ripping 10-Inch x 24 Tooth. Thanks in advance - Tom(Tom_the_Builder_17 on ig)    Huys Questions: 1) Hey guys! I have a question regarding hand planes/Electric hand planes... I am looking at buying an electric hand plane (likely the Triton 3 blade unlimited rebate planer) instead of a nice Veritas low angle plane. I don't finish with a card scraper or smoothing plane as I haven't had enough practice, yet I am very pleased with the results I get sanding. Am I crazy to think that an electric hand plane will do a great job at taking down high spots, to flatten a table top over a finely tuned hand plane? I'm finishing by sanding, so I don't need the plane to leave a glassy smooth surface. I need the high spots gone and gone quickly. I ask because I don't see many other woodworkers using this method, but in my mind it seems much more efficient (if finishing by sanding). I'd love to hear your response on the podcast. Nobile builds 2) Hey guys, I'm expanding my sharpening set up, and looking to add a grinder for initial squaring and hollow grinding. I am looking at cheap options and I'm torn between a slow speed 8 inch grinder, or the cheap wet grinder made by WEN. Do you have any recommendations or suggestions? Zacs wood studio
February 1, 2019
Support us on Patreon: Guys Questions: 1) Hey one of you guys said you wouldn’t buy a saw stop saw, that there are great saws for a lesser price. I also don’t fear cutting my hand as much as kickback. I was wondering what are some other saws on the market you would suggest over sawstop . -Christopher 2) Hey guys, I’m really enjoying the podcast—very informative! I’m finally in a position to buy my first Festool tools, and I plan on buying the Domino, Track saw, and dust extractor. My question is: should I buy the TS 75 and the DF 700 (with the Seneca adapters for smaller cutters) or go with the smaller models? Currently, 95% of my work could be done with the smaller versions, but I can see needing the bigger versions in the future. I live in Portland Oregon and can throw a rock out my window and hit someone selling a slab. Also, I can see myself purchasing an MFT style table, and I’m not sure how well the 75 would work on it. Thank you,Ryans rough cut woodworking   Seans Questions: 1) Hey guys, I had another one for you. I heard in a previous episode about how you guys struggled to get your bandsaws working after the riser block was installed. That bummed me out 😅 because I’m planning to get one for my Powermatic PWBS-14CS. I got the saw and mobile base for $700 on Craigslist, it’s in perfect condition because the elderly man who bought it sadly passed away soon after. It’s got the Carter tension deal and killer guides, lots of cast iron...etc... my question was whether or not you feel like I’d get better results using the Powermatic riser block on a Powermatic bandsaw . I’m a luthier/aspiring woodworker and would love to be able to resaw smaller panels for guitar tops/backs/sides. I wouldn’t be asking too much of it in terms of huge boards run through it. I only foresee resawing 7”-9” wide boards for now and while I’d love to get Guy’s 15”, I wonder if the $120 for the riser could get me by for the next year or two until I could swing for something with greater HP -Jonathan 2) Hi Guys, the podcast is great and I'm loving the format of Q&A. I had two questions below for the podcast, keep up the good work! 1. How do you guys handle machine noise and neighbors? I'm currently in the process of building a shop and have neighbors pretty close on all 3 sides (15-20 ft away). I think my best option is to go with 2x8 plates with staggered stud wall with Rockwool weaved in-between the studs and 5/8" drywall. What other options do you guys use to reduce noise? 2. Dust collection in the floor? Yes or No. I was thinking maybe one 6" line coming where the table saw will be located and everything else located on the perimeter walls. Thanks,JesseBeechland Furniture   Huys Questions: 1) I'm looking to do my first dining table and set of chairs. I love mission style/arts and crafts furniture, and would like to design my own rendition in a similar style. My main questions are around proper chair and table proportions, expandable table hardware, keeping table tops flat, and how to create comfortable chairs. Are there any great books or resources you would recommend? -Jake 2) Thanks for all of your insight into the world of woodworking. I’ve got a question regarding the differences between a 12” disc sander (Rikon 12 inch $299) and a oscillating edge/spindle sander (Rigid $249). What are the benefits of each? What do you guys prefer? It seems like the Rigid has more capability and is cheaper but am I missing something? Any other thoughts on them or similar machines? Crwoodshop
January 18, 2019
Guys Questions: 1) Loving the podcast gentlemen, listened to all 10 episodes in the last 2 days. Now for my question: I know all three of you do a lot of your sanding using the drum sander, but for us without the room for one what is your recommend sanding procedure. Hand sand vs. random orbital sander? Grit progression? ROS preference? Just give me all that great knowledge you have!! Thanks again guy! -Project Build stuff - Brad 2) I'm in the market for a router table and lift. All of the router lifts appear to be more or less the same, many being produced by Jessem. Router compatibility isn't a concern, as I'll mount the ubiquitous PC 7518. Can you talk about the Kreg PRS5000 and how it compares to the Jessem (and thus Incra) lifts, woodpeckers PRL-V2, etc? I haven't found much info out there. They all seem to feature above-table bit changes, micro adjustment, etc. Is there any actual difference between all these, or should I just pick my favorite color? Thanks! - Kevin   Seans Questions: 1) Hey guys, I'm really enjoying the podcast. I have a question for you. When starting woodworking a block plane always seems to be high on the list for "must have tools". I purchase one and agree it is extremely usefully. However several times I'm need the rabbet block plane instead. I know I loose that function with a standard block plane but If I had purchased the rabbet block plane instead what functionality would I have sacrificed? Keep the saw dust flying. Josh 2) What concerns should I have with my jointer and planer being at my father in-law's shop; due to spacing and budget. Should I mill it and let it acclimate there or bring it back to my shop to let it acclimate? Could I get by with hand tools at my shop if there's any additional movement after acclimating at his shop? I should add that our planer is a DW735, so that is portable between the shops. Also, I use kiln dried lumber and my shop isn't yet heated but his is and more climate controlled.-Nik   Huys Questions: 1) Alright my question is all about hand tool cabinets/hand tool walls. What are your most reached for items? What were the thoughts on tool placement and ergonomics when you built yours? Have you had to rebuild upon acquiring new tools or remodel to accommodate shifts in your preferences? To be clear I’m not looking for the “these are the top five tools to get first when on a budget” kind of thing when I ask about most reached for. I’m trying to plan ahead and build something a bit “future proof” with the ability to expand as I acquire new tools. So don’t feel bad talking about “x” high-end thing that you love and reach for often. I’m excited to hear about what those items are, regardless of price point. Because that will be something I can weigh in on whether or not it’s a tool I could see myself getting down the road and would consider saving some space for. Love the show, keep up the great work! -Jonathan Scott woodworks 2) Very much enjoying your podcast and it’s focus on woodworking questions and techniques. I’m in the process of building and designing a new workbench for my shop. I have the Rockler quick release face vise but I can’t seem to find a solid answer as to how to install it. Should the inner face of the vise be flush with the workbench top, or should I install it so that the inner face is a separate piece from the workbench top? Curious as to your opinions on this matter. - Dustin
January 4, 2019
Support us on Patreon:   Guy's Questions: 1) Here’s a question for you. I need create a buildup for a mantle top. Will be painted finish. 6’ wide x 10” deep x 1-1/4” thick. I was going to glue up a piece of 3/4” maple ply and 1/2” mdf. Then will edge band with 3/4” thick soft maple. Do you guys think I will have issues with the top due to gluing to dissimilar materials? Thanks!!! Alan 2) I have listened to every episode so far and love them all. I would to hear your guys setups for your sprayers. I am trying to decide if it makes more sense to buy a large 60 gallon plus compressor to run hvlp guns off or to buy a stand alone unit like a earlex or Fuji. It will be used for a little bit of everything. The wife likes some stuff painted but I get away with just shellac from time to time as well - Kyle  Sean's Questions: 1) Good evening, Sean! I know you guys are getting a ton of questions for the podcast, but I wanted to add one more. I've been eyeballing the jointer/planer combo machines and was curious on yours, Huys, and Guys opinions on them. - W.B. Designs 2) Question for you guys: I am making a coffee table that will essentially be a square box (36”Lx36”Wx17”H, 3/4” stock)with an opening lid on top. The client (my wife) wants beveled / mitered corners. My question is what is your preferred method for cutting the 45? Table saw, router table, track saw? I just made a small box using the table saw with a digital angle finder and checked with a square to ensure 45. It came out close but still seems a few thousands off. Maybe I’m expecting to much? This seems so simple yet it is hard to achieve. - Circle City Woodworking   Huy's Questions: 1) Love the podcast guys. I was someone who made a living at woodworking back in the day but am back to working out of my garage where I started 30 years ago. Having said that, what advice can you give about dust collection, given the garage shop environment is so confined. I’ve got at Jet 2 micron collector but am looking to get something specifically for the chop saw station. Thanks for your input and sorry for the long question - Mike  2) As a follow up to my bandsaw blade question: I made a lazy mistake on a set of boxes this past weekend. The boxes are mitered corners, with top and bottom panels captured in respective grooves. I glued up the boxes and was set to cut off the lids. Didn't change out the 3/16" 10 TPI blade in the bandsaw. The 5" height on the zebrawood box had the blade wandering off the line at the beginning of the cut. So I have an unintentionally curvy intersection between lid and box. (continued...) I flattened the bottom of the lid with my drum sander. But the box portion is too tall to pass through the drum sander. How do I flatten the top of the box? Light pass through table saw (it would have to be two cuts)? Change the blade on the bandsaw and take a light pass there? I can't imagine the planer is a great idea because I'd expect tear out on the backside. Or would it work with super light passes? What would you guys do? Sunrise Woodshop
December 21, 2018
Support us on Patreon: Guys Questions: 1) Have you guys ever done a traditional French polish and if so how did you do it. Thanks and I love the podcast. Kyle 2) Gentleman, thank you for answering my question in Episode 7. Ive got a new question for you. Blade Cleaning versus Blade Sharpening. We all know it’s a good practice the clean blades regularly and personally I go with some warm water and simple green, it’s worked great for me. My question is, what are the signs I should look for when I’m beyond this simple solution and it’s time to get my blades sharpened. Thanks and keep up the good work! Hubbell Woodshop   Seans Questions: 1) Hey guys, wondering if you can recommend a table saw for me outside of a larger cabinet saw. Space is limited for me and being able to move it around my workshop is key. I own a track saw for breaking down sheet goods, but am lacking a saw to rip thinner pieces consistently. I’d like something with a good fence and miter slots to use some jigs I will make. Thanks for any help you may have! - RJ Link Sean Mentioned: 2) Who came first, chicken/egg? So in your wood shop what comes first, jointing/planing? And what’s your process? Winter Wolf Woodworking   Huys Questions: 1) Got another question: When planning a project what factors do you consider when deciding between ordering thicker stock 8/4 (or thicker) or laminating thinner stock to thickness? It hard to find 8/4 white oak in my area even though 4/4 is plentiful. Are there any rules of thumb that say never laminate x parts? When is it not ok to laminate?Josh 2) What bandsaw blades are you guys running for "everyday" use? I've mainly used timberwolf blades. 3/4" 3 TPI for resaw, 1/4" 6 TPI for general purpose, 3/16" 10 TPI for fine work. Not surprisingly, I hate changing blades. Wondering if I could at least get away with a decent compromise between resaw and "general purpose". Sunrise woodshop
December 7, 2018
Support us on Patreon: Guys Questions: 1) Love the podcast, keep up the great work. I am a moving along in my woodworking skills and just got a used Dewalt DW735 planer so I can work with some hardwoods. I was wondering what sorts of things I should check/verify before starting it up. It looks to be in decent condition. Thanks! - Dorian 2) Top three types hand planes every beginning woodworker should own? Brand recommendations are also welcome. Love the podcast fellas, keep it up! -Zach   Seans Questions: 1) Good morning guys. Loving the format of your podcast and thank you for answering questions with such detailed responses. I just picked up the super max 19-38 drum sander, can you guys speak more about what grits you primarily use and what grits do you always keep on hand ? Thanks guys and keep up the great work. Rustic grain designs 2)  Being a new woodworker it’s easy to get lost in the realm of “easy” projects or the DIY type of work....what are some projects that you did early on you learned the most from? Or what are some projects you did later that you wish you had done earlier in your career/hobby woodworking? - Winter Wolf Woodworking   Huys Questions: 1) For building cabinet cases, what's your favorite joinery technique? Bill 2) How do you respond when someone asks you for a custom furniture piece to match a feux-veneer from a big box store? And how do you respond when they’re surprised at the price of craft-made furniture?pretty_good_woodworks
November 23, 2018
Support us on Patreon: Guys Questions 1) What’s u guys! Loving the podcast so far. My question is in two parts. Hardwood suppliers in my area offer rough and S3S lumber - obviously at different price levels. What values do you see in each option. Secondly, I am trying to improve my wood selection keeping in mind grain pattern and unique pieces. Do you have any recommendations in selection particularly with regarding to rough sawn lumber? Thanks gents! -Hubbell woodshop 2) Hey guys I have a question about wood movement. I am currently designing a coffee table for a neighbor made from solid 5/4 walnut. I was thinking about joining the table top to the panels that will be the legs with 3 through, wedged tenons per leg. The top will be 24” wide with the legs being 18-20” wide. Would wood movement be an issue here? My thinking is that because they are similar widths and made sequentially (side to top to side) they would expand and contract at the same rate. If this is an issue what would you suggest as a way to join the top without seeing any fasteners? Thanks for any help you could provide! Really enjoying the show thus far.- Ed, Atlanta, Ga Seans Questions 1) Okay, semi odd question and a bit long. I stumbled across this tool last year called a “V-Drum Sander” it’s also sold as the “Flatmaster Drum Sander” Apparently it used to be sold as plans to make your own, but it claims to do way more than a drum sander and that it can act as a jointer and accomplish milling perfectly flat boards with sandpaper that floats around the spinning drum and never clogs up because of centrifugal force. I know that all sounds nuts, I think so too, but I never hear anyone talk about it and the videos seem kinda convincing. Have you guys heard of this thing/do you think it would work as described? I don’t have tons of space and have been considering it as a useful multipurpose addition to the shop. Thanks for starting a podcast based solely around the answering the community’s questions! -Jonathan Scott Here’s a link to their site: Here’s a link to a video on it: Video Sean mentioned during Podcast: 2) Hey guys, I'm loving the podcast. I listen to quite a few woodworking podcasts, and although I do enjoy hearing what folks are up to, sometimes I just want to hear some Q&A. I really like getting your perspectives on listener questions, because many times those questions are relevant to what I'm doing (or may do at some point). On this week's podcast you mentioned learning how to apply shellac. How do each of you apply it? -Sunrise woodshop  Huys Questions 1) Hey guys, I want to start out saying I really enjoy the podcast, it’s been very beneficial to me. I’m a beginning woodworker, mostly enjoyed as a hobby. As a beginner I’ve mostly used the kreg jig as my go-to, and would like to eventually get a biscuit jointer. Beyond that, what advice could you give me to graduate to the more complex joinery such as mortise and tenon, dovetails etc. Also, any tips and tools you use for your favorite joinery methods would be much appreciated! Keep up the good work! Thanks, Nate 2) This would be for anyone, although I think Huy would have experience as I’m about to have a similar space as him. My wife and I are moving and I’ll be upgrading from a small one car garage in a 1950’s rambler to a much more modern 3 car garage. I have the go ahead to turn the third stall into my workshop, and I’ll be able to leave my truck in the driveway and basically have two stalls (weather permitting, I live in MN) to utilize. My first real project will be shop set up and doing a project I’ve been really dreaming about for years, a real “woodworking bench”. I’m unsure if I will have this on locking castors for space saving or if I’ll keep it stationary. My question is in regards to style for space and versatility. I see all sorts of table options from the French Roubo to the English Nicholson and every hybrid in between. And my projects range from small trinkets to larger furniture. What would some of the pros and cons be of these benches being movable vs stationary given their styles. Would a larger assembly table style (like the wood whisperer’s circa 2007) be something that would make more sense considering in the winter I may be dealing with a few feet of snow shrinking my shop back to a single garage stall.- winter wolf woodworking
November 9, 2018
Guys Questions 1) I’m doing some veneer work lately and have heard that contact cement isn’t the best adhesive. Although I am using the paperback veneer and I’ve had decent success with it. What do you recommend? The panels are about 24x24. Oh and I do not have a vacuum bag. -Paul Gustafon 2) Love your podcast! I bought a Incra Miter express with 1000HD. I know you are fans of Incra products. I love this product as a cross cut sled, very accurate and repeatable. How do you set it up for angle cuts and cut with the same accuracy and repeatable cuts. Thanks! -Wayne Kempf   Seans Questions 1) Woodshop Life hosts.....Really enjoying the podcast as I’m just getting started (literally) with woodworking. Figured I’d ask all 3 of y’all a question on equipment.So, mitre saws and what do you recommend. 10” or 12”? Sliding or non-sliding? Single or dual bevel?Brand varies for each user kinda like vehicles, but I am looking at Dewalt, Rigid, Bosch. Thank you for your time and keep up the excellent info with the podcast and social media.-Kingdom Concealment 2) General finishes has been my go to finish ever since I quit using Minwax polyurethane. I would like to try other finishes (linseed oil, shellac, Waterlox) but I’m curious as to how well they protect projects compared to general finishes. Obviously it depends on what your finishes. I would just like to hear your all’s pros and cons for different finishes. Thanks so much, love the podcast-Logan Gross   Huys Questions 1) How often do you come up with your own design for projects vs using or modifying a found plan to fit your needs? What helped the most with being able to design your own projects? Books, looking at actual pieces and “dissecting them,” other? Is there any part of a project that you routinely find difficult to design? I’m in the early stages of designing a storage bed for my kids and I’m not the biggest fan of a lot of them online. I want them to be more “fine woodworking” which would require heavy modification of an existing plan or starting from scratch. I’m interested in hearing how you guys evolved your designs.Ryan @rcrich85 2) I follow all of you on IG and YouTube. Thank you for creating the podcast and for putting your content and knowledge out there for others, including me, to learn. My wife and I are expecting a baby boy in April. Family is my top priority and I also highly value shop time and working out, all of which my wife is very supportive. I know I will need to be much more efficient in the shop and may need to break things down into smaller steps. Huy, I know this is something you are experiencing now with a new baby. I’d love to hear how you all balance your shop time with other life priorities and how you make the most of the sometimes, limited time you have. Thanks guys! Keep up the great work! -Paul Goetz
October 26, 2018
Guy's Questions: 1) Sanding vs planing finish. Is there really a big difference? Submitter: aeumber Marc's YouTube video: 2) Concerning table saw safety. How wide should the board be before you stop using a push stick and start using your hands? Submitter:Tabb Adams Sean's Questions: 1) Everyone podcast has discussions of the woodworker’s favorite tool. But most of the answers are hundreds if not thousands of dollars (cough cough saw stop). Many of us do not have the means to purchase those tools. So, what is your favorite tool under $50? How does it excel and what are its limitations? Submitter: Rusty_Keyboard 2) Hey guys. I plan to buy a SawStop for my garage shop. I’d really want to get the 3hp professional model. I’ll also need to buy a dust collector, and I’m looking at the Oneida mini gorilla or Jet cyclone (to be connected by flex hose to one tool at a time, no duct work). My issue is that I only have a single 220 volt outlet. Should I get a the 3hp/220v saw with a 1.5 hp/110v dust collector or the 1.75 hp/110v saw with a 2hp/220v dust collector? Thanks for your advice. Submitter: David Huy's Questions: 1) in reference to shop aprons/vests/tool belt/baby sling(ha, been there on that one) ?? What is the preference of each of you? Is it related to the task at hand or general comfort? I've gone to a waxed canvas tool apron, durable but still light. Just enough to hold a small tape, square and any marking tools needed at that time. Curious on how you all approach it. Thanks. Submitter: Wesley 2) where do you start? A keen interest but an empty (basic tools) garage/woodshop.  Submitter: mcsegel
October 12, 2018
Guys Questions: 1) Hey Guy, love your channel and have been a long time watcher. I have a question semi-related to this video I was hoping you could help with. Here you framed a solid piece of wood, how doesn't the expansion and contraction of that piece cause cracks in the frame? The reason this came up is that I desire to make a dresser, and was trying to sort out how to frame the sides without using a lamination. Any explanation here would be great. Thanks again. 2) Was wondering, did you use different glue for the sizing, and did you glue the boarder on while the glue for the sizing was still wet?   Huy's Questions: 1) Why did you apply a washcoat of shellac (actually, it was a prefinish coat and not a washcoat) on your tool cabinet? 2) Why did you drawbore peg and wedge the through mortise and tenon on your trestle table?   Sean's Questions: 1) Why did you use a plywood bottom in your mahogany blanket chest? 2) Do you sand between every coat of finish and what do you use to remove dust between coats of finish?
October 2, 2018
Questions from todays show: Guy's Questions: it's certainly an impressive tool, but (and i'm not trying to troll here!) is this amount of precision really necessary if you work with wood? I mean, considering the amount wood grows and shrinks under environmental conditions, do you really need .001 precision? it seems kinda overkill and more akin to the world of metal working, cnc machining etc. The aspect of repeatability i do get, though. Is the joint tight enough just by cutting with the veneer saw? No need to shoot it for a snug fit? Huy's Questions: I've quickly outgrown my job site saw and I'm currently in the market for a new table saw.  What are the differences between a contractor saw and a cabinet saw? You mentioned making a climb cut with your hand held router while using the Leigh FMT Jig.  What is a climb cut, why and when would you need to make a climb cut? Sean's Questions: What Software do you use for your designs and how detailed do you get with your designs in the software? With winter fast approaching, how do you heat your shop and is your shop insulated?
October 1, 2018
Questions from todays show: Guy's Questions: Thanks for the videos Guy. I know this is an old post but one more question: I understand the grain directions but why would you flip the board when working it down in thickness? Would you not want to keep the same reference surface for each pass or does it not matter? Are you just trying to take evenly from both sides? Thanks again. You use MDF as the base or backer. My experience is that MDF doesn’t screw into very well. But since you and I don’t use much hardware, I guess it doesn’t matter. But if you do need to screw into MDF, does pre-drilling do well enough and is strong enough for your projects? Huy's Questions: How much of the back of a new set of chisels do I need to flatten and polish? Why is the top of your miter saw station so tall compared to the rest of your work surfaces? Sean's Questions: What is a starter pin(router table) and when/why would you use it? How do you glue up thin panels?
September 26, 2018
In this episode we introduce ourselves and tell you all about the Woodshop Life Podcast.   Guy Dunlap   Huy Huynh @AlabamaWoodworker on Instagram   Sean Walker @SimpleCove on Instagram
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