Send us Fan Mail We taste through Australian icons and ask what truly makes a wine “great”: site, story, structure, or time. From Great Western’s mineral Shiraz to Margaret River’s silky Cabernet, Grange’s legend and Noble One’s golden botrytis, we weigh value, ageability and joy. • Best’s Bin 0 Shiraz 2021 as elegant, dark-fruited Great Western benchmark • Continental climate, phenolic ripeness and stony granitic tannins • Thompson Family Shiraz 2020 from 1868 pre-phylloxera vines • Why cel...