A note from Clare: Welcome to Series 5, Share the Podcast Mic. After everything that's happened this year, we wanted to shake things up and share the power of this beautiful platform with some of the BIPOC voices leading the conversation in sustainability and ethical fashion. So after this episode, I'll be passing the Wardrobe Crisis mic onto them. Each will interview a person of their choice. Your guest hosts are some of the most exciting, dynamic, inspirational voices working in this space today - as are their guests. I couldn't be more grateful to them all for sharing their experiences with us, and being part of this project. I'm excited to bring you this contextual episode with the brilliant sustainable fashion writer, activist and stylist Aja Barber, before I pass the mic on to her as our very first guest host next week. It's all up discussion today: from allyship (when brands get it wrong & how to get it right) to fashion billionaires; white fragility, the dreaded Karens, and coddling vs. discomfort. We talk about how the system is rigged but we have the power to change it. Aja's vision for a sustainable fashion future? Press play to find out. Find us at www.thewardrobecrisis.com Aja's on Instagram here. Follow her Patreon here. Can you help us spread the word about this series? Use the hashtags #sharethepodcastmic #wardrobecrisisguesthosts Insta @thewardrobecrisis@mrspress Twitter @mrspress See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
Disabled People Love Clothes Too - Keah Brown on Fashion's Inclusivity Failings, Self Love & Practicing Joy
For all the talk of inclusivity finally being taken seriously by fashion, the industry is way behind on many fronts. It basically ignores entire sections of the market, which makes no sense from a business perspective, and let alone a social one. Adaptive fashion is both an opportunity and a necessity - as this week's brilliant guest, author Keah Brown says, disabled people love clothes too. And they're tired of having to alter things that don't work for them. Accessible, adaptive design is the future, and forward-looking brands are taking note. Our chat covers everything from Keah's New York Fashion Week debut and how her hashtag #disabledandcute went viral to writing her first screen play and the finding joy in the everyday. This is an enlightening, bright interview full of inspiration. What a treat to have Keah on the podcast. Let us know what you think. You can find Clare on Instagram and Twitter. Keah's website is here. Do you follow us at @thewardrobecrisis ? Remember, you can read our magazine at www.thewardrobecrisis.com, you can sign up for our bi-weekly newsletters there too. THANK YOU FOR LISTENING. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
Philosophy! The Internet of Things! Irvin Penn! From not being Mozart to designing outfits for The Muppets, as a kid... It's all up for discussion in this week's ep with Levi's Vice President of Global Product Innovation, Paul Dillinger. Paul drove Jacquard by Google, so of course we talk about that, and the future of tech innovation in fashion particularly around wearables. But fundamentally, this is a conversation about why we wear what we wear, what fashion means and how we've used it across time to craft our identities. Oh, and sustainability. Basically, this is why we love to make podcasts. And Paul is the greatest. Enjoy! Got feedback? Find us at www.thewardrobecrisis.com See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
"You can't farm spiders!" says this week's guest, scientist David Breslauer. You can keep more them in serious numbers spinning webs off hula-hoops suspended from your office ceiling though... Enter Bolt Threads, the Californian biotech company behind Microsilk - a bioengineered sustainable fibre used by Stella McCartney. Find out how they did it, where the science is headed, and what’s next (hint, it's involves mushrooms). Just don’t call David Spider Man. Find our more at www.thewardrobecrisis.com Love the show? Don't forget to hit subscribe. You can contact host Clare Press on Instagram here, and follow the show here. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
How did denim get so unsustainable? And did it all start with stone washing? Our guest this week accepts responsibility for the industry going so hard on that. Francois Girbaud was there at the start, when, as he says “I was just a stupid guy” - and didn’t know about the environmental impact of stone washing. After that, of course, came acid wash, sandblasting, all the rest of it. So, yes, we discuss all the important environmental stuff, but this is an epic interview about Paris, the history of fashion, and the birth of cool - with a great many pinch-me stories! Outspoken, unafraid, and a true original, Francois Girbaud is fashion pioneer. Meet the man who brought denim to Paris in 1964 with his boutique Western House, who dressed Jimi Hendrix, counted Brigitte Bardot as a customer, and wanted to be a cowboy like John Wayne. This is a rare chance to hang out with one of the great fashion characters. ENJOY! See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
What’s in my clothes? If you’re asking that question, you probably expect the answer to be about fabric content. Polyester? Cotton? Wool maybe, or silk. But what about chemicals? You won’t find these listed on your typical garment label. Last Series, Clare interviewed Greenpeace activist Kirsten Brodde, who led the Detox My Fashion campaign, launched in 2011, to force fashion to wake up to the toxic trail of textile production. So what’s changed since then? Chemistry in fashion is still not a mainstream topic, and most people have no idea about chemical use in clothing production. But the fashion industry has made headway. The Greenpeace campaign succeeded in making fashion take action. Initially 6 brands got behind the formation of the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) programme, with the aim of removing hazardous chemicals from apparel and footwear supply chains by 2020. It’s called Roadmap to Zero. Discover how it works, learn about the wins and find out what’s left to be done. www.thewardrobecrisis.com Talk to Clare in Instagram and Twitter. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
You know those people who are always ahead? The true originals no one can catch? Helen Storey is one of them. This British former runway designer and current Professor of Fashion & Science uses fashion as a trojan horse for big issues. Ten years ago she collaborated with a chemist to make garments that filter pollution from the air. She's made dresses that dissolve to show how we destroy what's beautiful. In 2015, in the run up to the COP15, she turned a decommissioned refugee tent, that had once housed a family in Za'atari refugee camp in Jordan, into a travelling fashion statement on climate change. She called it Dress For Our Time, and debuted it in a London railway station. That dress has since travelled to the UN in Geneva, the climate strikes, and even been on stage at Glastonbury. But it is Helen who has travelled the farthest. Today she is the UN Refugee Agency's first ever designer-in-residence. Hear how she works in Za'atari, which is home to more than 75,000 displaced people. Recorded in London before the coronavirus shutdowns, this fascinating interview challenges us to rethink everything we know about fashion as a tool for change, connection and finding meaning. Find out more at www.thewardrobecrisis.com Talk to Clare in Instagram and Twitter. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
“I don’t give voice to anyone, but I have a really amazing tool and that’s my camera. I use my camera to amplify the voices of people who feel unheard.” Today photographer Giles Duley is the CEO and founder of the Legacy of War Foundation, and an activist for the rights of those living with disabilities caused by conflict. But he started out working in music and fashion, shooting for magazines like Vogue, GQ and Arena. Since 2004, his portrait photography has taken him all over the world, from Iraq and Jordan to South Sudan and Angola, documenting human stories, often in post-conflict zones or crisis situations. In 2015 he was commissioned by UNHCR to document the refugee crisis across the middle east and Europe. In 2011, while working as a photographer in Afghanistan, Giles himself was injured by an improvised explosive device (IED). He is now a triple-amputee. He was back taking photographs the following year. The legacy of war is violent and harrowing. Be warned, some of the stories Giles tells are graphic. And yet, this interview is full of warmth, laughter and mostly importantly hope and humanity. Have you listened to Part 1? Don't miss the related Episode 121 on Article 22 in Laos. Find Legacy of War Foundation here. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
Can fashion really make a difference? Can artisans be agents of change? Could a humble bangle help make post-conflict land safe for the people who live there? It sounds crazy to be talking about war and bombs in the same sentence as fashion and jewellery. But that’s exactly what Article 22, a New York-jewellery brand and social enterprise that’s handmade in Laos, seeks to do. They upcycle shrapnel and scrap metal from The Secret War into jewellery, and they called their first collection Peace Bomb. For every jewellery item they make, Article 22 donates to MAG, the Mines Advisory Group - an NGO that’s on the ground clearing undetonated bombs so that local families can live and farm in peace. Why are the bombs still there? From 1964 to 1973, the U.S. dropped more than two million tons of ordnance on Laos during 580,000 bombing missions - equal to a planeload of bombs every 8 minutes, 24-hours a day, for 9 years. Then acted like it never happened. It took 45 years for an American President (Obama, in 2016) to formally acknowledge the bombing campaign. Yet, Laos still lives with that legacy every day. For this week's Episode, we travelled to Xiangkhouang province with Article 22 founders Elizabeth Suda and Camille Hautefort, to meet the artisans whose land is contaminated, and the NGO workers from MAG whose job it is to clear it. And along the way hear powerful stories of positive change. www.thewardrobecrisis.com Talk to Clare in Instagram and Twitter. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
On World Oceans Day, we meet Australian big wave surfer Laura Enever. Laura started surfing as a kid in Sydney. She spent 7 years surfing professionally on the Women’s World Tour . Now she’s decided to reinvent herself as a big wave surfer. And we mean seriously big - these waves are scary, dangerous and remote, they break way out to sea, or on shallow rock ledges and only a few times a year. What has the ocean taught Laura about resilience and conquering fear? Find the shownotes on www.thewardrobecrisis.com Talk to Clare in Instagram and Twitter. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.