Show notes
Ella is a lead climber on team USA who made her first world series finals earlier this year in Prague! In this episode, we’ll learn about how she climbs the same lead routes all year round to train in Arizona, why she doesn’t want to move to Salt Lake City despite that, how a simple vitamin deficiency wrecked her body for a whole year, and how she went from placing 40th in world cups to making semis and finals in 1 year.Guest links:Ella's InstagramReference links:Check out https://comp.rocks for climbing competitions near you! (Currently USA only)Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:42 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:33 - Preparing for Koper10:36 - Starting climbing at 314:03 - Getting coached by her dad20:09 - Fitness is all that matters for lead?24:42 - Why she doesn't want to move to SLC30:14 - Beta video before lead quails!!!34:36 - Seeing a dyno in a lead route35:58 - First WS finals experience41:33 - 40th place to making finals in 1 year44:38 - Training routine49:52 - Ella LOVES autobelays!57:13 - Youth climbers don't need to hang board59:41 - A year of health issues1:10:08 - Upcoming goals1:13:25 - Balancing training with coaching and college1:19:40 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you deal with pressure?1:21:46 - AUDIENCE Q: Do you do fantasy climbing league?1:22:58 - AUDIENCE Q: Would you ever go back to Schwandorf?1:29:33 - Where to find Ella
