That's Not Real Climbing
That's Not Real Climbing
Jinni Xia
Max Ayrton - "Alternative" Climbing Moves Are SO In
1 hour 5 minutes Posted Jun 29, 2026 at 4:00 pm.
Intro1:21 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:28 - Climbing, competing, setting background7:00 - World climbing setting levels 10:44 - Bern Finals boulders got leaked15:24 - AUDIENCE Q: Is it easier setting in a climate-controlled venue?18:24 - What is the perfect round?22:02 - AUDIENCE Q: What guidance does world climbing give for setters?24:19 - Forerunning process29:26 - Setting "unconventional" moves34:46 - OMG!! This is the OG cartwheel guy!!38:00 - The divergence of indoor/comp climbing from outdoors 42:34 - Zones vs tops point change44:53 - Starting Contact Holds with Alex Waterhouse52:55 - AUDIENCE Q: What's Alex Waterhouse up to?!54:26 - AUDIENCE Q: Is there any consideration for the belayer when setting?59:21 - AUDIENCE Q: Planning vs improvising problems?1:00:45 - AUDIENCE Q: Will the Christmas Yule log comp be on this year?1:02:29 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite member of house 51?1:03:21 - Words of wisdom and where to find Max
Intro
Mad Rock Shoutout!!
Climbing, competing, setting background
World climbing setting levels
Bern Finals boulders got leaked
AUDIENCE Q: Setting in a venue with AC?
What is the perfect round?
AUDIENCE Q: Setting guies from world climbing
Forerunning process
Setting "unconventional" moves
OMG!! This is the OG cartwheel guy!!
Divergence of indoor climbing from outdoor
Zones vs tops point change
Starting Contact Holds with Alex Waterhouse
AUDIENCE Q: What's Alex Waterhouse up to?!
AUDIENCE Q: Considering belayers when setting
AUDIENCE Q: Planning vs improvising problems?
AUDIENCE Q: Christmas Yule log comp?
AUDIENCE Q: Favorite member of house 51?
Words of wisdom and where to find Max
0:00
1:05:05
Download MP3
Show notes
Max is a World Climbing routesetter from Great Britain who most recently set for the bouldering world series in Bern 2026 and will be setting for Salt Lake in October as well. In this episode, we’ll learn about hold shaping, what happened when the Bern finals boulders got leaked early online, whether world cup routesetters can actually climb the boulders they set, and we’ll hear about his extremely hot take on “alternative” climbing moves...I had no idea that he was the infamous cartwheel boulder setter.Guest links:Max's InstagramReference links:Bern Women's M3CWIF Cartwheel BoulderThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:21 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:28 - Climbing, competing, setting background7:00 - World climbing setting levels 10:44 - Bern Finals boulders got leaked15:24 - AUDIENCE Q: Is it easier setting in a climate-controlled venue?18:24 - What is the perfect round?22:02 - AUDIENCE Q: What guidance does world climbing give for setters?24:19 - Forerunning process29:26 - Setting "unconventional" moves34:46 - OMG!! This is the OG cartwheel guy!!38:00 - The divergence of indoor/comp climbing from outdoors 42:34 - Zones vs tops point change44:53 - Starting Contact Holds with Alex Waterhouse52:55 - AUDIENCE Q: What's Alex Waterhouse up to?!54:26 - AUDIENCE Q: Is there any consideration for the belayer when setting?59:21 - AUDIENCE Q: Planning vs improvising problems?1:00:45 - AUDIENCE Q: Will the Christmas Yule log comp be on this year?1:02:29 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite member of house 51?1:03:21 - Words of wisdom and where to find Max