That's Not Real Climbing
That's Not Real Climbing
Jinni Xia
Rachel Carr - No high-level FEMALE COACHES??
1 hour 14 minutes Posted Feb 2, 2026 at 6:00 pm.
Intro1:23 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:03 - Getting ready for British Bouldering Champs4:41 - Performance anxiety as an athlete8:59 - Being "realistic" on your performance13:46 - Becoming a coach15:44 - AUDIENCE Q: Difference between coaching youth vs senior?20:48 - Weirdness of coaching your past competition23:47 - Lack of trust in female coaches31:44 - AUDIENCE Q: What advice would you give to aspiring female coaches?34:29 - Erin's crazy huge team of coaches!40:23 - Team GB's philosophy on training style43:48 - Erin's 1 weird weakness...45:47 - Overrated and underrated training techniques?50:17 - Climbing goals53:57 - What's better than coaching at the Olympics?56:44 - AUDIENCE Q: Why was GB Climbing funding so bad?58:43 - AUDIENCE Q: Team GB is so strong right now, how has that impacted camaraderie amongst athletes?1:03:05 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you coach the mental side of competition? 1:07:53 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you think new comps like PCL will impact the scene for athletes and coaches?1:10:05 - AUDIENCE Q: Tips for new coaches?1:12:47 - Where to find Rachel
Intro
Mad Rock Shoutout!!
Getting ready for British Bouldering Champs
Performance anxiety as an athlete
Being "realistic" on your performance
Becoming a coach
AUDIENCE Q: Coaching youth vs senior
Weirdness of coaching your past competition
Lack of trust in female coaches
AUDIENCE Q: Advice for female coaches
Erin's crazy huge team of coaches!
Team GB's philosophy on training style
Erin's 1 weird weakness...
Overrated and underrated training techniques?
Climbing goals
What's better than coaching at the Olympics?
AUDIENCE Q: Why GB Climbing funding was bad
AUDIENCE Q: Team GB camaraderie
AUDIENCE Q: How do you coach the mental side?
AUDIENCE Q: How will PCL affect the scene?
AUDIENCE Q: Tips for new coaches?
Where to find Rachel
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1:14:03
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Show notes
Rachel is a Team GB coach and also Erin McNeice’s personal coach! She started as an athlete and competed in youth worlds, but moved down the coaching path shortly after. In this episode, we’ll talk about performance anxiety as an athlete, the difficulties she faced being taken seriously as a young female coach, and we’ll get insight into team GB’s training as well as Erin’s insanely huge team of coaches.Guest links:Rachel’s InstagramRachel’s YoutubeReference links:Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topicsTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:23 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:03 - Getting ready for British Bouldering Champs4:41 - Performance anxiety as an athlete8:59 - Being "realistic" on your performance13:46 - Becoming a coach15:44 - AUDIENCE Q: Difference between coaching youth vs senior?20:48 - Weirdness of coaching your past competition23:47 - Lack of trust in female coaches31:44 - AUDIENCE Q: What advice would you give to aspiring female coaches?34:29 - Erin's crazy huge team of coaches!40:23 - Team GB's philosophy on training style43:48 - Erin's 1 weird weakness...45:47 - Overrated and underrated training techniques?50:17 - Climbing goals53:57 - What's better than coaching at the Olympics?56:44 - AUDIENCE Q: Why was GB Climbing funding so bad?58:43 - AUDIENCE Q: Team GB is so strong right now, how has that impacted camaraderie amongst athletes?1:03:05 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you coach the mental side of competition? 1:07:53 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you think new comps like PCL will impact the scene for athletes and coaches?1:10:05 - AUDIENCE Q: Tips for new coaches?1:12:47 - Where to find Rachel