#168 Dan Varian — The Different Physical Archetypes Of Pros, High Knuckle Crimping, Committing To Chisel Or 3-Finger Drag, and How True Progression Happens from The Testpiece Podcast

The Testpiece Podcast

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#168 Dan Varian — The Different Physical Archetypes Of Pros, High Knuckle Crimping, Committing To Chisel Or 3-Finger Drag, and How True Progression Happens

2 hour 30 minutes Posted Jul 21, 2025 at 12:00 pm.

Intro

The "Perfect Experience of Climbing": Bombadil 8B+/V14

Aidan Roberts and Climber Styles

The Values of Different Grip Types

Support by Organic Climbing

The Values of Different Grip Types

Are you a dragger or a chiseler?

The Case Against Edge Lifting

How To Go From Good To Great

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Show notes

Dan Varian is a living legend in the bouldering scene. He's one of the founders of the iconic company Beastmaker and he's a prolific developer with who has FA'd 100's of boulders in the grade 8 (V11 and up).

On top of that, Dan is one of the most thoughtful and experienced climber in the world on what it takes to climb at a high level, especially when it comes to the hands and fingers.

This is an absolute masterclass and deep dive on elite level hand strength.

THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED by ORGANIC CLIMBING! The best crash pads in the game, owned and operated by a single person who truly loves climbing.

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