#152 Ned Feehally — Training For Micro Edges, Being A ‘Good’ Climber Vs Doing A Big Number, 9A Paddle Dyno’s, and A Standardized Beastmaker Board?! from The Testpiece Podcast

#152 Ned Feehally — Training For Micro Edges, Being A ‘Good’ Climber Vs Doing A Big Number, 9A Paddle Dyno’s, and A Standardized Beastmaker Board?!

1 hour 31 minutes Posted Apr 7, 2025 at 12:00 pm.

Intro

Why Ned Wrote ‘Beastmaking’

What Made Ned Interested In Training

What Training Becomes After Doing It For Decades

Knowing When You’re In A Training Dead End And When To Push On

Figuring Out You Superpower

Genetics And Finger Strength Gains

Being A Well-Rounded Climber

Finding Weaknesses And Training Them

Technical Culture Of The UK

Home Training Boards And How To Set Them Up

How Ned Feels About People Becoming Obsessed With The Beastmaker Middle Edge

Beastmaker Standardized Board?!

Foxy Climbing

Training For Micro Edges

Active Vs Passive Grip Training

Training BEFORE Climbing

Recovering From Celiac Disease

Applying Comp Techniques To The Outdoors

How Do You Go From Good To Great?

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Show notes

Ned Feehally is an absolute legend from the UK. He’s one of the founders of the iconic climbing company, Beastmaker, and he’s flashed up to V14. How’s that for an intro?!

Ned also wrote one of the best books on training — “Beastmaking”, and lately he’s been working on 2 new companies he started with his wife, Shauna Coxsey, “Foxy Climbing” and “Mini Beasts”.

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