Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry
Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry
Collective Horology
We Sued to Stop Tariffs – And Rolex Is Reshaping Retail – Episode 90
43 minutes Posted Aug 10, 2026 at 7:15 am.
Intro & show opening
Singer Reimagined — Heritage V72
Singer sues the U.S. government (tariffs)
Why we filed — tariffs’ impact on small business
Swiss exports and market volatility
June 2026 export data (11.2% YoY)
Results: LVMH, Richemont & Swatch
Rolex & pre-owned market trends
Certified Pre-Owned (CPO) programs & use cases
Case study: the Franken 1675 debate
Rolex’s share & pre-owned transaction data
Rolex/Bucherer boutique expansion in the U.S.
Bucherer expansion details & market implications
Big-box retail arms race — impact on independents
Closing & Collective Horology contact info
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Show notes
In Episode 90 of Openwork, Collective Horology co-founders Gabe Reilly and Asher Rapkin reveal that they've sued the U.S. federal government over the tariffs squeezing the watch industry and small businesses nationwide. They explain why they joined the suit alongside co-plaintiff Burlap Barrel, how the latest Section 301 tariffs continue to limit access to independent watches, and why it's the volatility of trade policy — not just the cost — that makes it so hard for small businesses to plan and grow.
The guys then dig into the numbers: the latest Swiss watch export data (up more than 11% year over year in June 2026, with the U.S. driving growth as China slides), the "bullwhip effect" tariffs are having on imports, and fresh quarterly earnings from Richemont, Swatch Group, and LVMH — where jewelry is powering the luxury recovery while watchmaking hangs tougher.
Finally, they turn to the shifting Rolex and pre-owned market, where Rolex's share of secondary-market value has hit a seven-year low even as its Certified Pre-Owned program grows into a juggernaut. They close on the retail arms race reshaping the industry — Bucherer's giant new Rolex flagship in New York, fresh boutiques nationwide, and what the rise of big-box players like Watches of Switzerland and the 1916 Company means for family-owned dealers.
Openwork is a weekly podcast about how the watch industry actually works. An unfiltered look behind the scenes — no press releases, no hype, and no sponsored takes. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology. Available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, YouTube Music, or wherever you get your podcasts.
You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email [email protected].