Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry
Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry
Collective Horology
Bonus: Reviving the U.S. Watch Industry – Josh Shapiro (J.N. Shapiro) – Episode 41
1 hour Posted Jul 6, 2026 at 7:15 am.
Intro & Summer Hours Announcement
Show and Hosts Introduction
Guest Introduction — Josh Shapiro
History: American Watch Industry at Its Height
Industrialization: Mass Production & Machinery
Pivot to Wristwatches & Swiss Subcontracting
Swiss Competition, Tariffs, and Industry Decline
World War II Impact & Postwar Collapse
Josh’s Origin Story — From Teacher to Watchmaker
Apprenticeship & Early Learning (David Walter, Guilloché)
Early Production: Infinity Series & Partnerships
The Resurgence: Building a Fully US-Made Watch
People Problem: Talent Shortage in US Watchmaking
Machinery & Costs: CNCs, Balance Staffs, Automation
Made-in-Switzerland vs Made-in-America: Rules & Loopholes
FTC Guidance & Sourcing Challenges (springs, jewels)
Slow, Steady Strategy: Schools, Infrastructure, Market
Tariffs & Government Support: Effects on Makers
How to Support American Watchmaking Today
Closing Remarks & Contact Info
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Show notes
To mark 250 years of American independence, we're revisiting one of our favorite conversations: our sit-down with Josh Shapiro, the American independent watchmaker behind the Resurgence — the only watch that currently meets the U.S. Federal Trade Commission's standard for "Made in America." It's a fitting week to ask a question that feels newly urgent in an era of tariffs and reshoring: what would it actually take to bring watchmaking back to the United States at scale?
Josh takes us from the industry's staggering height — when American factories employed over 100,000 people and produced millions of chronometer-grade watches a year, so far ahead that the Swiss crossed the Atlantic in 1876 to study our methods and race to catch up — through the forces that dismantled it: the pivot from pocket watches to wristwatches, an aggressive Swiss cartel, Depression-era trade deals, and a postwar collapse that was already terminal long before the quartz crisis delivered the final blow. Along the way he explains why the single hardest thing to rebuild isn't machinery or capital, but people, and why "Swiss Made" and "Made in America" are two very different promises.
Told through the lens of building the Resurgence in his Los Angeles workshop — the CNC machines, the $150,000 balance-staff breakthrough, the North Dakota jeweler he coaxed out of retirement — this is a clear-eyed look at the slow, deliberate work of rebuilding an industry from the roots up, and what any of us can do to support it.
Openwork is a weekly podcast about how the watch industry actually works. An unfiltered look behind the scenes — no press releases, no hype, and no sponsored takes. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology. Available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, YouTube Music, or wherever you get your podcasts.
You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email [email protected].