The busy city of Istanbul has grown to be the home and cultural centerpiece for millions of Turks. It's also turning into a popular destination for visitors to witness many layers of history on the edge of Europe and Asia. We're detouring into the backstreets of Istanbul, with suggestions for enjoying the city like the locals do — from corners of the Grand Bazaar that tourists often miss, to the romantic traffic-free islands just off the coast.  We'll also pay tribute to the late writer Bill Holm, who shared his thoughts about "eccentric islands" with Rick.